Hook problem “CowboyMachine” clone

[Onlyintheaters]

I bought this machine a few months ago and started “to sew” 2 weeks ago...

 

yep not happening, why?

Help help help!

Hook issue.

Falcon 269 FN1 cylinder bed  - (Adler 267/373) - (Techsew 2750)

 

current issue: hook-shuttle binding

“hook” picks up thread, but thread doesn’t seat in the ‘groove’ behind the hook & goes passed the groove causing ‘Timing’ of pickup bar to begin upward stitch lock- “popping” thread around bobbin carriage causing a residual loop that the second hook rotation catches, birds nest, miss or sometimes (rarely) a complete stitch. (But never next cycle) 

what I see is that the thread needs a certain angle/distance to catch the ‘loop around’ groove that is too wide (too far from dog-foot-plate needle hole to  successfully catch the loop around after the hook pickup)  the angle it seems to need, requires the needle to be nearly out of the needle hole up, but at the same time the rotation distance of hook-loop-around vs  highest successful hook catch meeting is still nearly 7mm shy with no “obvious” adjustments.

things Ive tried: centering walking feet to zero,  moved the hook assembly closer, 0.1 mm (yep), backing the timing all the way till the hook meets 0.15mm above eyelet (loop) & bottom of scarf; as well forwarding the timing until the hook touches the top of the scarf.

since my machine is a Falcon FN1 296, the timing seems to be only adjustable from the main pulley (transfer belt/safety clutch) because the rod connecting to the hook drive gear has a groove cut into it on the “A-Typical” adjusting area, which only seem to be able to adjust horizontally on the center rod (rotates continually)

what am I missing???

 (please tell me correct terminology) 

 

thanks in advance for reading and giving your opinion, suggestion! 

Hours logged so far 32... very embarrassing, I’ve swapped motors out in less time...

[Uwe]

Your machine is a copy of the Durkopp Adler 269. Use the Adler 269 service manual  to adjust your machine. Make sure you use the correct needle system (System 134-35) , otherwise you’re really wasting time adjusting hook timing. Get ready to take some clear close-up photos or better yet, videos.

Here’s a  link to all the Durkopp Adler manuals for your machine:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/downloads/index.html?

action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F269_valid_till_May_2017%2F&prop1=

 

Sometimes the documents on manualslib.com load faster: https://www.manualslib.com/a/adler+269.html

On this machine design the hook timing is indeed adjusted from the rear/right end of the hook driving shaft. 

 

Also, the TechSew 2750 is a copy of the Juki LS-341, which is a totally different machine design. Don’t use those manuals to work on your machine. 

Edited September 22, 2020 by Uwe

[Uwe]

I made a video some time ago that shows roughly what your hook timing should look like.

 

I don’t have that Adler 269 anymore, so I can’t make any more videos. 

 

[Onlyintheaters]

THANK YOU

SO MUCH UWE!!!!

I am so most entirely grateful! Will be gleefully trying all this data after work!

 

thanks again!

(now, what shall I purchase from your site?)

[Onlyintheaters]

Well I spent the week pretty much loosening everything possible. I read, re-read... the manual, printed it, cross referenced the pictures... it just seems incomplete, somehow. Does it seem to be “translated” when you review it? Maybe some of the definitions are more specific than I can conclude? Any way I got it all back together and with my mechanical knowledge have it “functioning” the loops still slide over the bumps in the feed dig throat cover rather than staying inside... which bring me to a question.

With bobbin cover switching side to side, which string is supposed to be on which opening, there’s the hook catch and the loop on return it’s supposed to go (correct if wrong) on the left open space ?.. Is it absolutely necessary for the thread to pass through the bobbin cover stop and underside of the throat plate? When I adjust the timing to make it correct the 2nd pass if the hook catches the upward string, or the looper in the bobbin carriage drags the straight because the top stitch bar has already begun dropping.

i query this because I am getting staggered stitched (pics below). But if I adjust much of anything at this current “arrangement” it stops functioning altogether, and cannot perform as is currently. 

Also I am in fact getting loops in reverse... still top tension problem?

also the screw... in the bobbin area.. does that change the gap at all or just the loop around release?

thanks again!

[Uwe]

The staggered stitch line is due to the point style of the needle you’re using. That white stitch line in the brown leather is actually what many people want. Leather needles come with different point styles, each suited for a particular application. Experiment with different point styles and pick one that works for you. The picture below shows a few common point styles. 

 

 

The linked  Groz Beckert brochure has more detail.

 

The video below explains how that bobbin case opener works and how to adjust it. Loops on the bottom are often due to top thread snagging somewhere as it makes it way around the bobbin case. The video shows a different machine, but it has a very similar hook and bobbin case opener design.

 

Aim for more precision when you describe your problems and use annotated photos when you can. Remote debugging is tricky enough under the best of circumstances. A picture with an arrow pointing at a screw is much more precise than “the screw ... in the bobbin area”. Most phones allow you to edit photos to quickly add arrows and text.

 

Edited September 28, 2020 by Uwe

[Onlyintheaters]

Thank you Uwe!

+$ Uwe.store

advice for a leather swing out tape arm? Is there such a thing as fully adjustable? Size and materials thickness ?

[Wizcrafts]

7 minutes ago, Onlyintheaters said:

Thank you Uwe!

+$ Uwe.store

advice for a leather swing out tape arm? Is there such a thing as fully adjustable? Size and materials thickness ?

I recently bought a 3/4 inch swing out single fold edge tape attachment on ebay and am waiting for a spare bobbin cover sliding plate to J.B. Weld it to. The mouth of the folder (business end) is fairly wide and looks like it can handle almost 1/4 inch combined edge thickness. I will report back once it is mounted and I try it out. The edge tape I bought for it is fairly thin polyester (looks like the equiv of 1.5 ozs). It looks like it can feed leather edging too as long as is thin enough to go thru the bent channel in the binder (guessing about 2 oz).

There are certain folders that are extra wide for edging carpeting. I haven't gone there yet. All of these folders are made to feed slippery edging, like cloth, nylon and polyester. They slide through with little resistance compared to leather than may be sticky. Double folders are trickier than single folders with almost any material.

[Onlyintheaters]

Much obliged Wiz!

look forward to your findings!

[Uwe]

Binding is tricky business and often frustrates even experienced craftspeople.

For the Adler 269 class of machines, synchronized binder parts are available. Synchronized binding means the binder moves back and forth synchronized with the feed dog, making it easier for the feed mechanism to pull the tape through the tape folder.

You’ll need four different part sets for synchronized binding on an Adler 269 class machine: 

1 Swivel arm that connects with the feed dog

2 Tape folder that mounts on the swivel arm

3 Special feed dog and throat plate

4 Special binding feet 

 

One of my favorite parts suppliers is Kwok Hing, based in Hong Kong. You’ll need to create an account on their website to see pricing and place an order. My orders generally arrived within a week to ten days. My experience with KH has been very positive over the years.

1 Swivel arm (Need to verify with KH this is compatible with 269) : https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1845

2 Tape folder (KHF2/3/4 or KH66, check with KH which suits your needs):https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=747

3 Feed Dog & Throat Plate: https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1881

4 Binding feet: https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1882

 

The KH66 is a single-fold tape folder that I think would work well for leather tape.

The OEM parts may also be available directly from Durkopp Adler, but will likely cost more than what you paid for your entire machine. 

This video shows the synchronized binding setup in use on a modern Durkopp Adler 869:

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Uwe