Cylinder Arm Machine

[LOM]

I've been using my Juki 1541 W for gusset sewing, and though I've muscled through, I'd love to start working on a cylinder arm to make corners easier.

What are people's favorite machines to look out for?  I've been combing through facebook and other formums to find something used.  It'll be my first one so 

I'd rather not pay for something brand new while I get adjusted.  I generally use 3-4oz leather and mostly for bags, always veg tanned.  Thanks!  (or if anyone has tips on making gusset sewing easier on a juki, I'm all ears!)

[Uwe]

I’d recommend getting a Juki LS-1341 or a clone of that design. The head will be identical to the flatbed you’re already familiar with. These rarely come up on the used market because folks who have them hang on to them.

Search this forum for cylinder head related topics. You’ll finds dozens of discussion about the relative merits of the various designs. 

Post some pictures of the bags you’re making and the gussets you want to sew. Much depends on your actual sewing projects and how tight the corners are.  

Edited October 18, 2020 by Uwe

[LOM]

On 10/18/2020 at 6:01 PM, Uwe said:

I’d recommend getting a Juki LS-1341 or a clone of that design. The head will be identical to the flatbed you’re already familiar with. These rarely come up on the used market because folks who have them hang on to them.

Search this forum for cylinder head related topics. You’ll finds dozens of discussion about the relative merits of the various designs. 

Post some pictures of the bags you’re making and the gussets you want to sew. Much depends on your actual sewing projects and how tight the corners are.  

Thanks, @Uwe! I would love to stick in the Juki family if I can afford it, so I'll keep my eye out.    or save up!  Appreciate the rec.

I'll search the forums, but also wondering if there's a preference of a post arm to a cylinder arm.  I've only had experience with cylinder arms and flatbeds, so I don't know the perks of the post.  

For reference, here's gussets would be sewing (currently all on a flatbed).

[Kcstott]

I'll take a guess at it due to my experience being pretty limited as I am very new to this but I love my Leather machine co. class 4 and should be picking up a class 26 this weekend. these two machines will have all my bases covered with material thickness in leather work that I use. 
If I could afford Juki I'd have those instead. That said don't under estimate import machine. Be it a Cowboy, Cobra, Tandy Pro. Sailright, etc. you just need to find a machine that will work with what you are trying to do. 
Now not having used the class 26 all I can say is the cylinder arm is smaller in diameter and the capacity under foot is less than the class 4 but the class 4 is a harness stitcher. so it's needs the capacity. 
if I were to get into bag work I'd buy a class 20 flat bed machine and a class 26 cylinder arm. that would cover your straps and bags up to 16 oz of chrome or oil tan no problem. being that I'm going to guess you won't be sewing with heavier thread then a #92

[LOM]

7 minutes ago, Kcstott said:

I'll take a guess at it due to my experience being pretty limited as I am very new to this but I love my Leather machine co. class 4 and should be picking up a class 26 this weekend. these two machines will have all my bases covered with material thickness in leather work that I use. 
If I could afford Juki I'd have those instead. That said don't under estimate import machine. Be it a Cowboy, Cobra, Tandy Pro. Sailright, etc. you just need to find a machine that will work with what you are trying to do. 
Now not having used the class 26 all I can say is the cylinder arm is smaller in diameter and the capacity under foot is less than the class 4 but the class 4 is a harness stitcher. so it's needs the capacity. 
if I were to get into bag work I'd buy a class 20 flat bed machine and a class 26 cylinder arm. that would cover your straps and bags up to 16 oz of chrome or oil tan no problem. being that I'm going to guess you won't be sewing with heavier thread then a #92

Thanks for the insight, @Kcstott !  I have heard good things about the class 4 and 26 for sure.  I never really go much more than 3 to maybe 4 widths of 3oz leather but I do tend to use 138 thread.  Glad to hear a good endorsement of the class 4 and 26.  What kinds of things are you normally sewing?

 

[Kcstott]

20 hours ago, LOM said:

Thanks for the insight, @Kcstott !  I have heard good things about the class 4 and 26 for sure.  I never really go much more than 3 to maybe 4 widths of 3oz leather but I do tend to use 138 thread.  Glad to hear a good endorsement of the class 4 and 26.  What kinds of things are you normally sewing?

 

A little bit of everything. This is nothing more than a hobby for me. not trying at this time to make any money doing it. Trying to learn the skills needed to maybe one day make some money doing leather work. 
So far I've done gun holsters, a few belts i made a really nice hand bag for my daughter. sewn everything from 3 oz with #69 to 3/4" thick stacked leather with #277. The class 4 doesn't like #69 thread and running with such low tension. It's a beast of a machine and why i decided to look for a class 26 a slightly lighter duty machine that will run #69 and #138 with ease and I can leave the class 4 set up for the heavy stuff. 
Leather machine Cobras are imported (china) but they have a solid foundation and a good product with excellent support. There are far to many High end leather makers using their machines for them to be unreliable. 

[LOM]

3 hours ago, Kcstott said:

Leather machine Cobras are imported (china) but they have a solid foundation and a good product with excellent support. There are far to many High end leather makers using their machines for them to be unreliable. 

Fair point. Yeah, I have used a few cobra machines and never had complaints.  Thanks for your input and happy creatin'!