esantoro Report post Posted September 25, 2007 It seems that with every bag I complete, I focus on one aspect that could be improved. Now I'm wondering about optimum stitches per inch. I usually sew 207 bonded poly on 5\6 oz veg tan or chrome tan, two to three layers thick. Right now I'm sewing about 5/5.5 stitches per inch (my Juki clone is set between the 4 and 6 markers). I've go to experiment more, but my main question is may I use a stitch length setting that is between clicks of the adjusting wheel, or would I risk this setting losing its locked-in position? ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 25, 2007 Hi Ed, That depends on how often you move the lever from fwd to rev. When the lever is against the stop (the little click wheel) it won't move under normal conditions. When shifting, the stop could move if not in the little detent (click stop). With 346, I use 6 spi, with 207 and the correspondingly smaller needle, you could use 7 or even 8 spi, it's just what you like, just not so short that the holes touch. Art It seems that with every bag I complete, I focus on one aspect that could be improved. Now I'm wondering about optimum stitches per inch. I usually sew 207 bonded poly on 5\6 oz veg tan or chrome tan, two to three layers thick.Right now I'm sewing about 5/5.5 stitches per inch (my Juki clone is set between the 4 and 6 markers). I've go to experiment more, but my main question is may I use a stitch length setting that is between clicks of the adjusting wheel, or would I risk this setting losing its locked-in position? ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted September 25, 2007 Ed, Not a sewing machine mechanic, but I think you will be OK. I am going to show some ignorance here. Until your post, I didn't even know there were "clicks". I have had a 2000 for a while, and it has a pretty soft click. I haven't seen a problem with wandering stitch length. I have relined quite a few saddle skirts with it, and it hasn't made new holes, or skipped once set to the previous stitch length. I just bought a used Juki Pro 2000, and haven't got it set up yet. It has more of a distinct click. There is an adjustment for the stitch length lever tension too. On my 2000, it was pretty loose when I first got it, and would actually bounce a little. That will change stitch length. The adjustment is accessed throught the plate on the backside of the machine. Mine adjusts with a flat blade screwdriver. It is the only screwdriver thing back there, everything else is allen wrenches. Tighten down (if it isn't) and that should keep the lever in place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites