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W1ll1am

getting going with a Cutline C225

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Hi y'all!

Newbie industrial sewer with newbie questions about my new to me sewing machine, although I have been lurking here for months as it was the best reference for all the machines I checked out in my hunt for a good deal on the right machine. I finally picked up a Cutline C-225 for $150 and added a family sew servo motor to it to slow it down. I couldn't figure out how to get it to threaded at first and was also having trouble adjusting the thread length so thought it might be a mistiming issue. The problem is that It either wants to stitch at the maximum length (around 4.5 stitches per inch) or the feet wouldnt advance at all.

The gent I bought it from said it was his deceased brother's, hadn't been used in years, and "may" need retiming, so I took it to a local sewing machine repair shop who told me it indeed needed to be serviced and timed for $400. I passed on that, brought it home, figured out how to get it threaded and have been test sewing denim and vinyl pieces to get a feel for how it works. So I *think* it actually doesnt need re-timing now as the stitches look decent.

The stitch length adjustment is still not working properly however. I have only a couple times achieved a smaller stitch in a few hundred times of pushing the button and rotating the wheel, the rest of the time it is either max length or no length at all. I did find some threads on here about adjustments which could address this issue like this one  (in reference to the Singer 111w155 which I understand my machine is a clone of) but the reference images dont look exactly like what's inside mine and im not enough of a gearhead to make sense of it.

Here's a video showing my machine and what happens when I try to adjust the stitch length: 

 

So right after filming that ^ I noticed that when I turn the pulley to adjust the stitch length, the pulley seems to be spinning in its seat (not turning the gears) for 3/4 of a turn or so before coming to a stop. Hopefully this video shows what I am trying to explain poorly in words :p Is it supposed to turn like that? Hehe maybe it is and im just grasping at straws here!

 

Here's a picture of that strange bolt holding the pulley on, ive wanted to change to a large pulley to slow it down but cant figure out how to get it out of there.

image.thumb.png.570cf91bc5a3a5dddab6d16e6e135b2b.png

 

If anyone has advice on the stitch length adjustment or pulley removal I'd appreciate it! 

Last question: Should I be able to use walking foot parts for the singer 111w155 on this machine? For example I was hoping I would be able to get a walking foot with a guide on it like this.

Thanks everybody!

Will 

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I guess the set screws which secure the hand wheel / pulley on the top shaft are loose.

If you can remove the hand wheel check the shaft for a grove (usually 1 grove lengthwise). One of the set screw has to be tightened down in this drove. The other one is just for extra security and usually does not sit in a grove.

Your machine I guess is a Mitsubishi DU-105 (or similar) clone which itself is a clone of the Singer 211

You can download a parts list here

I have attached a basic operators guide for the Singer 211 here - hope it helps

Singer 211 Operators Guide-Small.pdf

 

EDIT:

or maybe the not fully tightened screw has worn a axial grove in tot shaft. But you have to remove the pulley to figure.

 

Edited by Constabulary
Text & Link edit

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16 hours ago, Constabulary said:

I guess the set screws which secure the hand wheel / pulley on the top shaft are loose.

If you can remove the hand wheel check the shaft for a grove (usually 1 grove lengthwise). One of the set screw has to be tightened down in this drove. The other one is just for extra security and usually does not sit in a grove.

Your machine I guess is a Mitsubishi DU-105 (or similar) clone which itself is a clone of the Singer 211

You can download a parts list here

I have attached a basic operators guide for the Singer 211 here - hope it helps

Singer 211 Operators Guide-Small.pdf 1.35 MB · 2 downloads

 

EDIT:

or maybe the not fully tightened screw has worn a axial grove in tot shaft. But you have to remove the pulley to figure.

 

Hi Constabulary,

Thanks for the parts list and the singer guide, I have the original manual but this describes some things better. Regarding the parts list, did you supply this because they still sell some Mitsubishi parts which would work in mine? Or did you send that because it has some useful schematics?

Regarding the removal of the hand wheel pulley, did you see the hollow threaded bolt in the photos which secures it? I cannot figure out how to remove it...

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To add to Constabulary links:

Mitsubishi DU-105 -- Very Clear

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwicsf2MqNHtAhWoElkFHbVLBe8QFjACegQIBhAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.supsew.com%2Fdownload%2FMitsubishi%2FMitsubishi%20DU-100%2C%20-120%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3uTFUneRig7cFyUxoVSoNu

Singer 211g 155 -- Very Clear version better photo's

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.supsew.com%2Fdownload%2FSinger%2FSinger%20211G155%2C%20211G156%20Service%20Manual.pdf&psig=AOvVaw2fFVFzIkTEfn8WS-q4xSKd&ust=1608166909268000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAMQjB1qFwoTCKCC392m0e0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAI

For a start stop turning the main pulley wheel away from yourself should only be turned away from yourself in small amounts to reset the safety clutch or help clear a jam of thread at the hook otherwise it could cause timing issues. The Mitsubishi and Singer manuals should help you with a lot.  From the Mitsubishi Manual:

Stitching length can be adjusted with
the stitch regulator push button on the
bed and the balance wheel.
1) Pushing the push button down and
turn the balance wheel slowly to
ward you.

2) So that the push button goes down
further and the balance wheel running. (I guess they mean free wheeling.)
At this time set the graduation of
the dial on the Balance Wheel with
the marking on the arm and then
release the push button shown in
Fig.
Caution: NEVER depress the button
while the machine is running.

Out of curiosity what size of needle are you using as it appears you are using V46 thread.

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, W1ll1am said:

Hi Constabulary,

Thanks for the parts list and the singer guide, I have the original manual but this describes some things better. Regarding the parts list, did you supply this because they still sell some Mitsubishi parts which would work in mine? Or did you send that because it has some useful schematics?

Regarding the removal of the hand wheel pulley, did you see the hollow threaded bolt in the photos which secures it? I cannot figure out how to remove it...

well, usually people are asking for manuals and parts list when they have acquired a sewing machine for the 1st time. ;) You never can have enough information,. Regarding parts - your machines shares a lot (but for sure not all) of parts and accessories with the Singer 211 model (including their clones). F.i. Presser feet, tension unit, bobbins, needle bar, foot bars.... maybe a lot more but these are the most important in daily use.

Usually hand wheels on sewing machines are secured by 2 set screws and often one axial screw and the end of the shaft (looks like your is missing - thats why there is a threaded hole I think). So loosen or remove the 2 set screws (axial screw is missing already) on the hand wheel and then you generally can pull off the hand wheel / pulley. I´m not sure if your machine has some specialties (for what ever reason) but thats how it works on the sewing machines I came across so far.

Edited by Constabulary

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