Singer 29-4 foot bar #8685 vs. #8675, small hole (pin) location

[AlizabethThomas]

Hey everyone,

I've gotten myself a singer 29-4 that stitches. Very short stitch length. I did a lot of reading on what causes that, but what obviously needs fixing is the broken-out upper small hole on the foot bar. So I'm writing to ask for help in fixing that in a couple of ways.

Most direct fix: weld build and re-drill. That hole has been busted out a while and is wallowed out. I would want to have a nice accurate location before I drill a hole that is pinned in, or I would start it wanting to break again. I will want to look for a solid pin as well, or what factory correct pin, not a nail like that mangled bit in there probably is. I've been cleaning it. So, I could either get someone with a spare to measure, or hope that the cheap version of the #8675 has a good tolerance on the hole location (and it's the same as the #8685) to use as a guide. Or, if someone could tell me that the 8675 foot bar is something that they've successfully used or modified to be usable in place of the 8685, I would just do that.

I've done hours of searches and lots of useful and entertaining info, much of it from this site, has turned up, but not on this specific part's backwards compatibility. Plenty of that on the bellcrank and it's lever, even someone who shimmed it to like new, which gives me other hope for this machine to have a long life...once I work out the foot bar problem to establish a baseline. I know the bobbin tension is insane, and foot is dull. Before I order the foot though, I'd like to know if I could add a foot bar to my order. I'm still just taking it apart and cleaning off all this nasty gear oil the previous owner used on it for it's entire service. Those must have been some stinky repairs with that oil cup full of gear oil, saturating the thread.  

[shoepatcher]

The foot that you want is the  only one really produced to day.  It is #82007.  Much better than the elves toe feet that came with the machine.  They are available on line fairly cheap.

glenn

[AlizabethThomas]

20 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

The foot that you want is the  only one really produced to day.  It is #82007.  Much better than the elves toe feet that came with the machine.  They are available on line fairly cheap.

glenn

I was planning on getting that foot. The main question was about the foot bar. Can i use #8675 instead of #8685, or can someone tell me from an intact spare the center of the small upper hole's location, ex. "2mm from side, 3mm from top to center of hole" as mine is rounded out AND broken. For whe I weld/file. Not sure if #8675 has same hole location or if it is more accurate on the $36 version or the $12 one, but would buy one if nobody can answer this detail. 

[AlizabethThomas]

I got the foot and foot bar #8675. I will at least get the foot's upper hole location, I bet that will be the same if the whole thing isn't close to the right size and shape enough to use or modify then use. Will report back then. Also almost got the missing bobbin winder, but I figured between my bobbin winders on other industrial machines and a drill and other bits I should be able to electrically wind them with only a little crafting of a split shaft, to save $38 right now. 

[shoepatcher]

good idea on bobbin winders.  The pin tht held the foot bar is a very small tapered pin.  If you weld up the hole and re-drill it, be very careful when drilling it.  A regular small pin would work.

glenn

[AlizabethThomas]

The answer for those searching the internet, NO, these are not compatible crossover parts. Now the internet can tell you this. I brazed all parts with the common worn areas most affecting stitch length, and took note of the approximate bobbin shuttle bushing. With punch marks on every gear in the pinion, I reassembled that. The rest of the needle/foot head is cleaned and can go back together. I'll clean the rest of what I can mainly on the outside, I won't bother disassembling the handwheel and the pinion's levered cam in there, just grease or oil it from the access hole and put the stitching end back together with my newly brazed/ reconditioned parts. 

[AlizabethThomas]

I made a tapered pin from drill bit material and some patient sanding in the drill. It's hard enough, it was a good firm passing fit through the big hole, fits the braze-repaired hole it's mother drill bit made, and tapers down enough to get stuck in the other hole. 

[AlizabethThomas]

Now the rest of the internet knows the needle bars are not in production anywhere. I wonder what a machine shop would charge to make a replica. If it would result in a much tighter machine and under $150, it might be worthwhile. Then again, that money toward a 29k_ could be better spent when $36 replacements are available. Obviously not enough people own 29-4s that any company has undertaken reproducing them. Here are some poor photos of my braze reconditioning. 

[AlizabethThomas]

Took a lot of work to get here, this thing was NASTY. I have to finish a carpentry project I started easlier though, so I'll be savoring this process over the mornings this week before work over coffee. 

[DonInReno]

Looks good!