Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DonInReno

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Interests
    Custom finish carpenter by trade.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Basic high quality loops, belts and tool bag mods.
  • Interested in learning about
    Industrial sewing machines
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. One trick to getting these screws out is to use the best fitting 1/4” drive hex shank bit, grind it if you have to so there is good contact in the bottom and sides of the slot, then with bit in a 6” bit holder/extension to give it a sharp smacks with a hammer. We don’t want to bend anything, just jar the screw a bit. If that doesn’t work, add heat and try again. If that doesn’t work Ive held the bit tight to the part with a c clamp (the type without a swiveling pad on the screw ). Turning the screw bit with an end wrench while hammering the screw of the clamp will either break the bit, or break half the head off the screw, but it won’t cam out. If the part can be held in a drill press vice, chucking a drill bit holder/extension in the chuck and using the feed lever to apply pressure while turning the chuck by hand is sometimes the least work. As with anything, developing a sense of feel for how hard you can twist things without making it worse takes practice. Personally, I clean a lot with wd40 and don’t have problems with heat treated parts if they are heated hot enough for the wd40 to smoke. This is probably in the 300 degree range. This is also in the safe range for not affecting the temper of the part but it’s quite easy to over heat, so I don’t recommend it to anyone. Any screw or part heated enough to change color is essentially ruined. The picture shows some tempering colors - essentially any color change should be avoided, but short of that we’re well out of the heat range that would affect the part.
  2. I joined the group you mentioned and I’m impressed with how much fun everyone is having with these things. My gut reaction is these are a really good introduction to sewing for people that otherwise would never consider a decent machine. It piqued my curiosity so I ordered one today
  3. Here’s a link for restoring screw heads that are boogered up
  4. To be honest I was worried at first that you were jumping into the deep end of the pool, but if you put as much effort and thought into reassembly this project will work out just fine. Here’s a fun catalog - it gives you an idea of what a sewing shop can order that we can’t get online. https://supsew.cld.bz/Superior-Sewing-Digital-Master-Catalog
  5. I remember watching a YouTube video of a guy who remade most of his from better quality and more artistic arms, levers and misc bits - very very nice. His stand was also well designed and finished. Must have been a motorcycle guy since his speed reduction from the motor was a chain drive! Lol
  6. Most things stuck together with old dried oil can be freed up with heat. Even loctite will soften well before the boiling temp of water. Heating until a drop of water just starts to boil is easy, safe on any heat treating, and usually hot enough. Point and shoot thermometers are relatively cheap if you do this a lot. In industrial settings, bearings are often heated to this temp as standard installation procedure. There is a lot of mass in that area that acts as a heat sink so it will take more heat than most people think. There is no need to heat back behind the big spinny bit - just heat the face until the backside comes up to temp. If you lived locally I’d bet lunch that this would free it up! I suggest looking at a few pictures or diagrams showing how pressed in bushings are removed...it’s usually quite simple to rig up - a piece of threaded rod, appropriately sized tubing and a small washer on one end and a large washer on the other. 89D440BE-A8AE-4127-836F-A9FF833080BC.webp
  7. Did the machine sew ok and then suddenly start doing this? How much experience do you have sewing in general and this machine in particular? How certain are you that it’s threaded correctly? Pictures and very very slow videos showing the operation of the machine help us the most.
  8. At that price you’ll always be able to get your money out of it.
  9. With the direct connect servo being fairly wide, adding another 7”-8” for an in-line reducer puts the handwheel waaaay over there. I can’t imagine it would be very enjoyable to sew with.
  10. If a sewing servo had a NEMA nose so it would simply bolt up to a NEMA reducer it would be much easier! Lol My current project is a Wittgenstein Alpha 3:1 reducer off eBay and SP-1100 servo from Keystone Sewing. It seems these reducers are available in a huge range of input and output sizes, as well as base adaptor measurements, both metric and inch. This one is 5/8” input, 7/8” output, with 70mm x 70mm holes in the base. The servo hasn’t made it here yet, but an adapter plate between the two will need to be made, or at least new holes drilled in the reducer base. Other than the compact size there is no noticeable benefit over using a 3:1 pulley reducer.
  11. I’ve also tried some things not all that traditional, and while tried and true is almost always the way to go, sometimes it’s worth it just fast a learning exercise. I also like a more compact form factor, but there is no way I’d go without a 3:1 reducer. My preferred setup so far is a planetary reducer directly coupled to the motor and one short belt. I’ll bet eventually a company will offer a servo mated to a planetary reducer.
  12. Your 206 should easily sew with 138 thread. Whom even said 92 is the upper limit either had an improperly adjusted machine or didn’t know what they are talking about.
  13. I do like how compact they are - as long as you aren’t expecting it to sew slower than other generic servo motors it seems interesting. I was curious how these super compact servos attach and found a photo from a different servo that seems to show one as it comes out of the box. On one end of the stator (spinny thing) there’s a bearing in the servo’s housing, but there isn’t a bearing on the other end - so I’m assuming the bearing supporting the machine handwheel serves as the output bearing of the motor. The adaptor plate and shaft connector you will need to make up will probably have to be quite exact.
  14. I can assure you the castings of cheap feet are not accurate half the time - I literally buy two sets and throw out the worst. Heights will vary all over the place as well.
  • Create New...