• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DonInReno

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Interests
    Custom finish carpenter by trade.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Basic high quality loops, belts and tool bag mods.
  • Interested in learning about
    Industrial sewing machines
  • How did you find

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. DonInReno

    Need help with Singer 7-33

    It’s pretty straight forward to braze or silver solder the parts back together if it didn’t bend much before it broke - cast iron comes in many flavors and some bends a little and some doesn’t. Your input shaft may also be bent a little and it’s easy to determine with a basic machinist dial indicator. You may mention to your welder friend that any sewing machine has spent it’s entire life being covered in oil so he’ll need to bake the oil out of the pores before brazing. This will also reveal any cracks that need to be ground out as thin black lines. Some machinists put cast iron in the wood stove overnight to bake it out, but heating it up to a dull red with just about anything is all you’ll need. good luck!
  2. DonInReno

    Need help Identifying this Consew machine

    This probably is a consew, but these models always remind me of the ones made by Brother back in the 70’s (and 60’s?, 80’s?) There’s little paint worn through on the bed so 99% chance it’s been repainted. In a generic sense this shape of machine was probably made by a dozen companies around the world as a less expensive alternative to a Singer 111, many of which are cheaply made. Even 40 years ago the fastest way to increase the value of a generic knock off is to put a more desirable name on it. I normally warn warn someone that if it’s hard to find information on it’s most likely even harder to get parts for. Maybe yours uses parts common to other more popular machines, maybe not. At $100 I’d buy it if it looks complete and makes a stitch, but that would be top $ since there is an increased chance parts will be a problem. Once it’s up and running reliably you could probably get $200 for it. Above $200 most people would rather buy a singer 111.
  3. Honestly I doubt you’ll be able to figure out the exact perfect machine for your style of bags until you try a basic machine to get some experience with the limitations of a flatbed. It’s a lot like marrying the first person you’ve ever dated - chances are slim that’s the best fit. I don’t think thread size has even been discussed - huge difference in machines.
  4. DonInReno

    Is tension discs wear an issue?

    Your first pictures show marks that are normal from sanding grooves with sandpaper on a flat surface. 600 to 1000 grit paper on a flat surface will quickly take out slight grooving. It shouldn’t matter if there are flats on the disks - flats don’t effect the consistency of tension, but any grooving is not good. I also don’t think a static friction test gives a person any usable information as long as the friction is consistent they are working just fine. Tension adjustments should become second nature to even an occasional sewer.
  5. DonInReno

    What's up with this thread I was given?

    I’d say chances are high that there are grooves worn in the thread path essentially the size of the thinner of the two threads and the second thread may be stiffer but it sounds more like it’s thicker and dragging in the grooves. While it might seem like the series of holes is there to “remove memory” from the thread, that’s not the purpose of the holes and commercial thread doesn’t need to be straightened. There are multiple holes to allow tension to be increased or decreased depending on how many holes are used. Commercial machines require tension adjustments anytime something changes - it’s an essential operator skill and should be embraced as much as much as any other basic sewing operation.
  6. Um...99.99% of all speed/volume controls use some movement - it works.
  7. I also sew canvas with a similar machine and you’ll definitely want to become familiar with adjusting feet, tension and whatnot. Trying to avoid changing anything that should be changed to save time just doesn’t work so well with these larger machines.
  8. The class 3 would still be awesome if it had the correct holes in the casting for the necessary parts to make reverse work, but it doesn’t.
  9. DonInReno

    Steel plate table top?

    Well the motor is coupled to the reducer - now it needs a new mount. Something with an easily adjustable belt tension that can be set without tools - the design hasn’t jumped out yet, but it will probably have a simple 2” hand wheel. I’ve come to like the simplicity of hidden thread spools in some of the big stitchers so I’m making a spool holder that hangs just below table top with a simple tube rising up a foot or so off the bed that supplies thread to the machine. Maybe the best looking thread stand is no stand at all! Lol Somewhat along the same line of thinking it dawn in me that if the thread is already under the table top why not add a somewhat hidden tensioner on one side of the table front running to a simple rotating metal post just barely sticking out of the other side of the table front. There’s plenty of room to hide a motor for the winder and I’d forgo an automatic stop for the simplicity of holding a small button down for a few seconds - the bobbin is winding a foot from my face so it’s easy enough to manually stop when the bobbin’s full. The wood top is completely gone and the 1/2” thick top has been roughly attached to the table frame. Bolting the machine down was as simple as drilling four holes, tapping 3/8” threads and screwing it down. The top is so solid it really has a nice feel and will serve double duty for leather tooling. At first the plan was to paint it, but I ran across a door kick plate that had a nicely blued finished much like a firearm and that might be cool - the way a blued finish rubs off with use has always looked classic. I’ll have to weld closed a couple of holes and spend an entire weekend lapping the top and corners flat and polished. I picked up a 7” diamond cup wheel for the grinder and after an hour was able to flatten out more than half of the unevenness, but there must be another .020” that needs to be lapped out one way or another. It’s such a big flat surface that if I can get it super flat it should look and feel really nice. The downside to using C channel is all the weird internal stresses and there’s no telling what kind of distortion will happen when the big cutout for the flatbed machines is made. Maybe the flatbed machines should get an entirely separate top? At about 100 lbs it’s a challenge to get this top on and line up th four bolts. There are a lot of trade offs trying to fit so many different machines in one base! At Summit Racing I fell for the slightly larger look of their hexagon shaped threaded tubes and a different shaped and slightly larger 3/4” rod ends that were in sale. The 20,000 lb rating on the rod ends definitely isn’t needed, but it passed the cooler than what I have now test! *chuckle* One thing is for sure, the majority of space behind the machine on most sewing tables is 80% wasted and basically has been a part of traditional designs as mounting for the motor, thread stand and light and not much else. I do miss having a little more space in front of the machine for scissors and whatnot so I’m saving a 4” strip off another piece of channel as an extension - maybe removable, maybe welded solid. I ran across some 8”x3” vintage iron wheels off an industrial cart that just look cool - much cooler than the current 5” rubber casters...and then saw some hexagon solid axles that would compliment the iron’s that for the goofiest use of time on a sewing table! Lol. Some designs make sense, on this I’m just adding bits that simply seem cool, however impractical they may be, and so far it’s been a lot more fun than it should be! :-)
  10. DonInReno

    Antique sewing machine protection wipe down

    It’s funny you say that - I also like to see the machines and my covers are 10 mil clear poly bags cut to just fit around the machines and almost stand up on their own. To be honest I don’t know if these bags were originally 55 gal super heavy trash bags or if they were sold as garment bags. Heavy clear poly is one of my favorite pattern materials for equipment covers - easy to cut and edges can be heat welded with an ordinary clothes iron by placing parchment paper between the iron and plastic. Clear vinyl would make a good cover.
  11. DonInReno

    DC servo motor for lathe usually has good deals on large non-servo dc motors and speed controls that might work, but 1 hp isn’t much for a 12” lathe. If you really are sold on a big servo they are readily available on eBay, but finding a stand alone controller set up as you described will be difficult - industrial servos are typically not a plug and play application - even a controller that can drive the servo on its own needs a lot of setup. its a better question for one of the home machinist forums.
  12. DonInReno

    Seiko SK-6 followed me home

    Nice! It still amazes me that the 132k6 and various clones have not been as popular in the US as they are in Australia and England.
  13. DonInReno

    Steel plate table top?

    A little closer - I roughly cut it to size and ground off most of the defects - it still needs to be sanded, corners rounded and mounts welded on. This particular channel is 30lbs per foot so it should be about 90 lbs - maybe 85 once the cutout for flatbed machines is made.
  14. DonInReno

    The planets are in alignment

    It’s funny that you mention a lathe - being primarily a wood guy my side of the family garage is filled with woodworking tools, but for a month now I’ve been adjusting to the idea of replacing a mobile wood lathe for turning tapered columns with a big stationary metal lathe. Here’s a cute little bar in a train caboose that I finished earlier this year.
  15. You can’t order directly from Superior since they are a wholesaler, but you can check the catalog to see if the part is available, or to at least have a better understanding of what is out there.