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DonInReno

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About DonInReno

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  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Interests
    old machines, anything that makes a stitch

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    Auto interiors, vintage western
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  1. I’d be tempted to add a new smaller top to the existing legs.
  2. The upper and lower thread is very close to setting the stitch when the noise happens so that narrows it down. The upper thread is jumping at the sound as the stitch is pulled tight, but bobbin thread doesn’t seem to jump at all....and only in reverse....hmmm You might look under the feed dog for a wear groove that might not normally pinch the thread except from the slightly different thread angle it gets in reverse. If there is a groove made by a smaller diameter thread it can grab the thicker thread and release it in a jerky fashion like that. Maybe the bobbin case is pinching the thread and it just doesn’t look tight and jumpy in the video. Turning the machine by hand as it makes a stitch you could feel what the tension on the bobbin thread is doing with the tip of a small screwdriver. If it’s real tight and jerks then the pinch is on the bobbin side - if bobbin thread stays rather loose then the pinch is more likely in the feed dog. If it were on the bobbin side it would do it forward or reverse, no? I look forward to hearing what it turns out to be!
  3. I’ve also wondered why many people are hesitant to get rid of the factory hand wheel. Personally I like a big cast iron hand wheel, especially if it looks like a vintage factory part.
  4. You’re in quite a good situation - either way will be a very nice setup. The drop down menu for motor options on that Keystone package shows a lower price on the reducer. The speed someone sews at varies not only on the type of product, but also personal preference - I sew at a relaxed pace in general, but many projects are new to me so I’m extra careful about material alignment and placing each stitch. For this style a 5:1 reducer is my favorite, but I also have a 7:1 reducer that was overkill, but still worked just fine. On the other hand a friend of mine sews a lot of belts and dog collars - she can whip em out quick and doesn’t want anything that slows down the machine too much. If you go with a big motor you may not need a reducer....
  5. The trick to searching for posts here is to use google, but add site:leatherworker.net I found the post that convinced me to buy the motor:
  6. I have purchased that sew pro 1100 motor from Keystone after the recommendations from a few members here that have tried a number of servos including the Reliable. The 1100 watts makes this a big powerful motor with great low speed torque. It appears all the 1100 watt motors on the market are nearly identical in appearance and price - probably the same manufacturer. Even though it comes with a needle positioner, when used with a speed reducer, it isn’t needed - there’s enough control to simply stop the needle wherever you want it to stop. The only catch with this motor is the $300ish price. At this price most low speed sewers would be better off with a $150 servo and speed reducer. Edit: I tried to find the discussion of the 1100 watt motor, but it’s buried in one of the “which servo to get” posts. The servo posts from the past few years are worth reading - a lot of wisdom.
  7. There’s more than a little marketing with all the claims of slow speed performance in the servos. The sailrite motor is a rebranded Reliable sewquiet motor. https://reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor
  8. I highly recommend a speed reducer of some kind if you can swing it. It’s especially useful for leather or other intricate sewing, but just as important it makes learning to sew with an industrial less stressful - you’ll have enough of a learning curve without being frustrated with a lack of low speed torque. No servo will have decent torque at the lowest speeds - that’s why there are 100 discussions here on how to improve low speed performance and zero on how to speed things up. Honestly it’s the single best investment to improve the entire experience, and if a new machine is set up for a speed reducer it saves the hassle of a retrofit.
  9. It looks similar to bearing blocks, but it’s just bare aluminum - very strong clamping force.
  10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-80mm-52mm-65mm-Diameter-Spindle-Motor-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-with-Screws-For-CNC/363048049399?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=632174603941&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 I’d definitely buy from them again. When the order was placed the estimated shipping time from China was 5 weeks, but it arrived in 19 days. This is similar to other small parts I’ve ordered from a Chinese address, but some have arrived within a week and two items have taken two months.
  11. That tab has to be held in the notch so the inner portion of the hook doesn’t rotate. Don’t just move the lever that has the notch until you make sure it wasn’t the hook that move a lot rearward. Since your tab is so far away from the lever I can’t help but wonder what else has happened. I’d put in a new needle and check the gap between hook point and needle. The gap should be as small as possible without actually touching. If this gap is ok, then move the lever with he notch back to where it holds the tab, but has enough clearance for thread to pass between the tap and notch. edit: Definitely take the other advice as well - safety clutch, follow the video, etc.
  12. Just today I received a Japanese 206 hook from a US supplier.....then I notice an identical hook being sold by Evernice on eBay - but it ships from Wohan China. While it is possible Japanese hooks are being imported into China then exported to the US, it seems much more likely these are counterfeit, and the hook I was sold is probably also counterfeit.
  13. What kind of problems are you having? For most sewing machines the rule of thumb (common to most service manuals) is to bring needle to bottom of its travel, then after the needle has risen 2mm (about 3/32” or thickness of a US nickel) the hook should be inline with the needle and 1/16” above the eye. This will show correct needle bar height, hook timing and hook clearance with the needle. As the hook passes the needle it should be as close as possible without actually touching. It’s ALWAYS a good idea to only perform this check after replacing a new needle. There’s nothing wrong with checking the 19mm dimension in your manual, but I’d suggest looking at the above as a double check. If your needlebar is only .015” low (so the hook is passing the needle closer to the eye) the only problem it might make worse would be increasing the chance of a skipped stitch. If the machine isn’t skipping stitches then the current needlebar height isn’t a problem. Even if it is skipping stitches, the culprit is most likely a function of hook gap and condition of the hook point. I hope that made sense.
  14. As long as it sews this should be a safe investment - you’ll be able to get your money out of it if something comes along that is slightly better - that’s essentially free.
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