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James11558

Need some guidance and advice

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I am a beginner and in need of guidance and advice regarding getting started. My goal is to learn and make some leather coverings for interior items for my classic car. Those items include: shifter knob cover, armrest pad covers, etc. I have watched many How-to videos and read many instruction guides on the art of stitching. I currently feel ready to start with some hands on learning and practice. I am hoping I can get advice on what tools and materials I should purchase. I
 

From my information gathering I think I need the following. 

#18 John James needles

0.8 or 0.6 waxed thread (need recommendation of thickness, type, and manufacturer) 

Awl (need recommendation)

set of flat chisel punches (need recommendation of type, size, etc) what I think I need is 5 stitches per inch

groover

edge beveler

Cobblers hammer

edge beveler

Need guidance on leather type, thickness, purchase source, etc. for auto interior part decorative covering.

I have looked on many sites and see a broad range of prices for starter kits and individual tools. I would like to avoid the mistakes of purchasing materials and tools with no current knowledge. I look forward to receiving starting point recommendations from experienced site members.

 

 

 

 

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Steer away from kits. Subscribe to Cechaflo on YouTube if you want to be amazed about leather car interiors.

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A decent skiving knife (they're "handed", so a leftie needs a left-handed one), and a steel straightedge. And a sharpening stone. I like Japanese water-stones, other oilstones and strops. There's a section on this.

Thonging and a thonging needle, gentler on steering wheel covers.

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Would like to start with small stitches similar to the picture shown. Any guidance on SPI, thread size, needed size, distance hole to edge etc.?

 

 

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Two different techniques have been used on that. I'll not criticise the work, as it's not been done to any particular quality, which puts it in a beginner's reach.

For the main parts, the holes have been punched before being butt-joined edge to edge. A flat thread has then been used to hold the edges together: you'd stitch it backwards for about 5 holes each end to bury the threads. Ideally, they'd have been glued around a former the same shape as the handle. Contact cement would serve. Later, as your skills develop, you'll learn to use a sewing punch and awl.

The bottom edge has then been covered with a leather edge-binding strip, maybe 5mm wide, skived (thinned) to about 0.5mm. In an ideal world, that would have been glued flesh-side together with about a 2mm overlap to the rear, before being wrapped and glued to the front. The entire shebang has then been sewn with about a 1mm allowance. But in reality, edge-binding shouldn't be necessary, and a beginner would be better to learn good edge-finishing. It's how a cloth-worker does things, not a leather-worker.

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