Leather Needle Selection

[jrcotner]

I mostly sew heavy cloth and canvas items, and am a fan of the website.   It's chock full of useful information, but I've search the archives and can't find info on my specific question.  I have a Mitsubishi LU2-4710 and have a leather project which may require different needles.  I need to sew a bridle leather strap which is about 3mm thick for a handbag.  I use Groz-Beckert DPx17 135 needles (Part # 718822) , and have found needle recommendations for different fabrics and imitation leather, but nothing that states that a specific needle can be used for natural leather.  Are imitation leather needles suitable for natural leather?  Does anyone have a recommendation for a suitable needle if not?  

Thanks for all the useful information.    

[kgg]

25 minutes ago, jrcotner said:

Are imitation leather needles suitable for natural leather?  Does anyone have a recommendation for a suitable needle if not?  

For leather you will need use 135x16 needles for the size of thread you are using. Depending on the thickness and toughness of the leather as well as the type/size of thread you may have to go up a needle size. I am not sure about the sizes available for the Groz-Beckert needles but would assume you can get them up size 24 as I use Schmetz needles. I would recommend Schmetz Diamond Point Straight Stitch Industrial Machine Needles - 135x16 (www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Industrial-Machine/schmetz-diamond-point-straight-stitch-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-10pack/?sku=SMND135118 ). You maybe able to use your 135X 17 needles with the leather but 135 X 16 would be recommended.

Example: i) V92 thread use a number 20 needle may have to go to a 21

                 ii) V138 thread use a number 22 needle may have to go to a 23

 

 

[jrcotner]

Thanks for the info.  This isn't a high-stress application so I was going to use 92 thread. 

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, jrcotner said:

Thanks for the info.  This isn't a high-stress application so I was going to use 92 thread. 

For that I use size 19 or 20 needles in system 135x16 diamond or tri point. I prefer to buy titanium coated needle that don't overheat or gum up as badly sewing through double-sided tape or glue.

Don't use round point needles in hard leather. They tend to grab inside on the way down and up. You can hear  the squeaking as they heat up. Always use some configuration of a leather point when sewing leather, especially veg-tan and bridle leather.

[jrcotner]

I was wondering if titanium coating was useful or just a marketing gimmick.  I'll check out the advertisers and see who has what I'm looking for.

[LindanHotAir]

On 6/19/2021 at 9:01 AM, jrcotner said:

I was wondering if titanium coating was useful or just a marketing gimmick.  I'll check out the advertisers and see who has what I'm looking for.

The titanium nitride coating is not a marketing gimmick for needles. Production sewing shops typically changed standard needles about twice a shift. They often reduced needle changes to once a week with the titanium coated (gold colored) needles. The coating also reduces friction and needle heating that can cause thread shredding. The increase in cost is a few cents per needle. We use the Groz-Beckert GEBEDUR needles for embroidery, in the long arm quilter, and for hot air balloon repairs.  A needle will run for several quilts before needing replacement.