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Posted
Bree, he has some interesting info on there. Most of my magnification work usually stopped at about 50x magnification, so some of this is rather interesting to me. (Though it may be overload to some!)

I'll have to take a look around for the razor blade that I ran a bead of weld along the cutting edge and see if I can get a picture......not that it's pertinent to the topic at hand, just a fun thing to demonstrate some small work.

Yep. I knew when I saw it that that guy's website would tease up the curious mind. Give a guy a high powered microscope and there's just no telling what kind of damage he can do!!!

He is probably a great example of what you really ought to do. Now do we really do what we ought to do??? I don't THINK so!!

I am inveterate orbiter. I like to just slowly orbit my stones around the blade until I can feel that wire edge and then a little stropping to clean it up and the blade gets sent to work. Microbevels 2, 3, 4, etc are just more than I can or want to handle. So do as I say not as I do!! LOL!

:deadsubject:

Ride Safe!

Bree

2003 Dyna Wide Glide

Memberships:

Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG

NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association

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Posted

thanks gang this was a great topic learned a lot going with the micro 3m

Josh

Josh

Dusty Chaps Leather

&

Seven O Saddle Shop

801-809-8456

Keep moving forward! On a horse.

Hebrews 4:12

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Posted
Yep. I knew when I saw it that that guy's website would tease up the curious mind. Give a guy a high powered microscope and there's just no telling what kind of damage he can do!!!

I found the scopes he talks about online for $100. Wish I had some play money! lol

Actually, I have a scope here already, but I think it only goes to about 50X magnification. If you have decent eyesight (corrected or not doesn't matter) even invest in a 5-10 dollar eye loupe, or maybe you have one of those bench mounted magnifiers? Even using those to look at your edges you will be surprised what you can see.

My last job everything was small enough that eye loupes were carried in our pockets, and sat on our benches. Even though I have excellent eyesight (at least for now) I doubt there was ever a day that I didn't reach for a loupe at least once a day.

Actually....some of those on here might enjoy a piece of rigging that we had available as well. The head mounted visors with magnifying glasses built in. Something like these... Visors (First find of a google search, no particular affiliation.)

I can see that the right set could be great for tooling, and reduce some of the eye strain from lots of close up/detailed leather work.

Posted
I found the scopes he talks about online for $100. Wish I had some play money! lol

Actually, I have a scope here already, but I think it only goes to about 50X magnification. If you have decent eyesight (corrected or not doesn't matter) even invest in a 5-10 dollar eye loupe, or maybe you have one of those bench mounted magnifiers? Even using those to look at your edges you will be surprised what you can see.

My last job everything was small enough that eye loupes were carried in our pockets, and sat on our benches. Even though I have excellent eyesight (at least for now) I doubt there was ever a day that I didn't reach for a loupe at least once a day.

Actually....some of those on here might enjoy a piece of rigging that we had available as well. The head mounted visors with magnifying glasses built in. Something like these... Visors (First find of a google search, no particular affiliation.)

I can see that the right set could be great for tooling, and reduce some of the eye strain from lots of close up/detailed leather work.

I have one of these that I got from the guy who comes to the leather shows. It was inexpensive and works great. Very comfortable and there are several magnifiers to choose from.

minitec-mag1.jpg

http://www.qedisit.com/techlights.htm

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

Ride Safe!

Bree

2003 Dyna Wide Glide

Memberships:

Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG

NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association

  • Members
Posted

I want to think everybody again for their help.

I went ahead and ordered a course,medium, and fine Arkansas stone. I bought small ones(4"x2"x1"and 6"x2"x1") I figured they would be easier to hold and use. And also to see how I liked them before I spent a lot of money on the bigger ones. I also ordered a surface plate. I cant wait to start sharpening!!!

Mike

Posted
I want to think everybody again for their help.

I went ahead and ordered a course,medium, and fine Arkansas stone. I bought small ones(4"x2"x1"and 6"x2"x1") I figured they would be easier to hold and use. And also to see how I liked them before I spent a lot of money on the bigger ones. I also ordered a surface plate. I cant wait to start sharpening!!!

Mike

Don't forget some good quality wet-dry paper to take full advantage of that flat surface plate.

Ride Safe!

Bree

2003 Dyna Wide Glide

Memberships:

Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG

NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association

  • Members
Posted

New surface plate....almost a new topic! :)

Now, I'm sure at this point you don't plan on using it for precision measurement, but I thought I'd mention a few things about these stones.

They are flat....and also stable. They will stay this way with relative ease and little maintenance. Surface plates have also been made in steel and cast iron over the years. Both of which can rust, and change due to temperature differences.

Basically, to look after these, don't abuse them (surface plates should never be hammered on!), and keep them clean. There are actual surface plate cleaners that are available, but almost any mild cleaner that doesn't leave a residue will work well. In a pinch I've also used rubbing alcohol.

If you're using them with abrasives, try to keep it off the surface of the stone, or clean it immediately after. To make these, they are lapped with an abrasive and another stone, so if abrasive is left on it, over time you can wear one are more than another, causing an out of flat condition.

When not it use, a cover to protect and keep it clean is a good idea too.

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Posted

Bree

Thanks for reminding me!!

Greywynd

Thanks for the pointers although part of it probably wont stay a precision stone for long.lol As I'd planned on killing two birds with one rock. I had planned on using part of it to stamp on and also to use for sharpening. So maybe if I stay back 4 to 5 inches on one side I wont screw the whole thing up and that side will stay true. I just stamp small stuff belts,cellphone cases and maybe a purse or two. So maybe I wont hit it hard enough to damage it. I reckon since I've already bought it I might as well find out. I reckon the worst that can happen is I'm out 28.00 bucks.

Thanks again

Mike

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Posted
Bree

Thanks for reminding me!!

Greywynd

Thanks for the pointers although part of it probably wont stay a precision stone for long.lol As I'd planned on killing two birds with one rock. I had planned on using part of it to stamp on and also to use for sharpening. So maybe if I stay back 4 to 5 inches on one side I wont screw the whole thing up and that side will stay true. I just stamp small stuff belts,cellphone cases and maybe a purse or two. So maybe I wont hit it hard enough to damage it. I reckon since I've already bought it I might as well find out. I reckon the worst that can happen is I'm out 28.00 bucks.

Thanks again

Mike

I'm not an experienced stamper by any means, but stamping isn't what I would call 'pounding' hard...and the leather is cushioning the blows from the stone. Personally, it's not something that I see a reason for, particularly with thicker stones, but was always taught, and I guess always stuck to it. I would refrain from heavy blows though, and personally, prefer setting rivets, snaps etc on an anvil or other metal. Thinking about it, I'd also keep the cutting board for large punches off it too, but that's more a personal thought.

Heck, for $28, if you find you like it for tooling, in time buy another and have one for sharpening, one for tooling!

Posted
I'm not an experienced stamper by any means, but stamping isn't what I would call 'pounding' hard...and the leather is cushioning the blows from the stone. Personally, it's not something that I see a reason for, particularly with thicker stones, but was always taught, and I guess always stuck to it. I would refrain from heavy blows though, and personally, prefer setting rivets, snaps etc on an anvil or other metal. Thinking about it, I'd also keep the cutting board for large punches off it too, but that's more a personal thought.

Heck, for $28, if you find you like it for tooling, in time buy another and have one for sharpening, one for tooling!

You can stamp on it. Just don't do anything that will cause it to crack or chip... don't allow that certifiably flat surface to get unflat. Don't let a steel hammer face directly contact the stone. Don't let anything act like a chisel on the stone. Keep any force spread out and buffered. Then you will be just fine.

Hey it's SOLID granite!! It's Mohs 6 or 7 depending upon how much quartz is in there. It is basically one step above magma... pure dense, heavy, igneous rock. You don't have to baby it... just don't abuse it. Keep your Mohs 8 or 9 sandpapers and abrasives facing AWAY from the softer stone because they WILL scratch it.

You are gonna love your new stone. And I'll bet you that nobody else on the block has one!!

:showoff::showoff::showoff:

Ride Safe!

Bree

2003 Dyna Wide Glide

Memberships:

Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG

NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association

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