making/ molding a holster

[figthnbullrider]

hey yall i want to make a holster for my dads 40 and i was wondering what yall do to mold it like that. also how thick of leather are you using.

[Randyc]

Bullrider

These are the steps I use to build a holster. I myself use an arbor press for my initial forming of the holster, then I use my hands and sometimes molding tools to complete the job. You do not really need the press. All of your molding/boning can be done by hand. Different holster makers use different steps in the building process. Some stitch the holster prior to molding and some stitch after molding.

For pocket and IWB Holsters I use 6-7 Oz. vegatable tanned leather. For belt holsters, I use 8-9 oz. vegatable tanned leather. Best advise I can give you is to study the postings on this forum. Theres some real good holster makers hanging out here with a wealth of knowledge.

1.After patterning, cutting, evening, edgeing,and dyeing, I glue the holster together with (Barges Cement)

2. I layout my stitch lines with a groover.

3. I stitch the holster.

4. I soak the holster for 15-30 seconds in hot tap water with a couple of drops of "Dawn" dish soap.

5. I let the holster dry to the point of the leathers natural color returning and the leather feeling cool to the touch.

6. I wipe the pistol down with a lightly oiled rag.

7. I place the pistol (naked without seran wrap) into the holster.

8. I mold the holster to my satisfaction.

9. I remove the pistol from the holster as soon as I'm finished molding.

10. I allow the holster to dry.

11. I finish and burnish the edges

12. I photograph the holster.

13. I post the photo on this forum for you guys to critique, praise, laugh at or write whatever you guys think of my holsters.

Good Luck!

Randy

[Jordan]

Randy you forgot step 9&1/2......Clean and put away the weapon. Heheheheh. Jordan

[Regis]

Good list. I mostly dye mine at step 10 & 1/2 and I do use thin plastic bag for weapon. But, I must admit that 10 & 1/2 is about how many months I've been making holsters.

Edited February 8, 2008 by Regis

[Billsotx]

I follow about the same procedure as Randy listed, but I do all my molding by hand; that is with hand tools - antlers and the handles of awls; sometimes a whatever laying there on the bench looks right so I use it. This entire rig (attached) is 8 oz., belt liner split to about 4 oz., the pouches are eight. Don't expect to get fine detail from the heavier weights of leather. As far as your molding and details. Most folks start working their leather way too soon; they're pushing lots of water and getting wrinkles and stretch marks. Case your leather and watch for it to dry to the point it is just turning back to it's natural color, then start your molding process. Don't rush, the leather is still plenty wet inside, take your time. Watch to see if you're pushing water, you don't want that in hand molding. I don't know about using a press. If you're pushing water, stop and wait another 20 to 30 minutes and start again. Humidity makes this variable and there's all kinds of voodoo so keep notes. Leather ain't leather. The four holsters in the pix were all cut adjacently from the same side and I felt differences as I worked them. They're for different N-frame revolvers if you're wondering why the moldings are different. The customer couldn't send his four guns and I didn't have the exact models in some cases so I went easy on the details in that case. If you're molding flesh out, which I mostly do, watch the inside - the grain side - for the color change, it's easier to gauge the casing on the grain side. Don't expect leather from different tanners to work the same. Expect water from different regions to case differently. I have access to both soft and hard water and there's a big difference in casing. That old saw - "They all the same but different!" - applies to leathercraft. I use real guns if I have them. I don't stick them in plastic bags because I want an exact fit. I want 'em as tight as Dick's hat band when they dry. After 48 hrs. I spray them thoroughly with silicone spray and put the gun in the holster to set over night, then remove the gun and let dry another 24 hrs. The holster almost spits them out after that process. Break-in is smooth. As far as casing, if you wait until the point I described above, you will not find moisture on the gun when you remove it after molding. If doubt this, shove it in the holster and immediately pull it out. It'll be dry. If it's not you're working too wet. That said, clean the gun when you done; wipe it down good. You'll have blue marks inside the holster. You'll have them eventually if you use it, unless you dye it. If the customer doesn't like that, he doesn't want what I do. There's lots of holster makers and I'm kind of set in my ways.

Randy gave you all the secrets except one - repetition - you'll probably have to make a few before you're happy. Repetition is the mother of skill!

Good luck and let us see your new holster when you're done.

[Randyc]

Jordan,

I left step 9.5 out on purpose. I haven't figured out how to get my bore brush down the barrel of my blue guns.

Bill,

Thanks for expounding on wet molding. I even learned someting!

Randy

[carpfisher]

Rough side out!? Not that is something I never would have thought of. I'll have to try that. Base on Bill's instructions, i have ben working way too wet, and removing the gun way too soon. Looks like I'm making a holster thgis week end. More un-scheduled practive (nice quote!)

[John D Dennehy]

I follow about the same procedure as Randy listed, but I do all my molding by hand; that is with hand tools - antlers and the handles of awls; sometimes a whatever laying there on the bench looks right so I use it. This entire rig (attached) is 8 oz., belt liner split to about 4 oz., the pouches are eight. Don't expect to get fine detail from the heavier weights of leather. As far as your molding and details. Most folks start working their leather way too soon; they're pushing lots of water and getting wrinkles and stretch marks. Case your leather and watch for it to dry to the point it is just turning back to it's natural color, then start your molding process. Don't rush, the leather is still plenty wet inside, take your time. Watch to see if you're pushing water, you don't want that in hand molding. I don't know about using a press. If you're pushing water, stop and wait another 20 to 30 minutes and start again. Humidity makes this variable and there's all kinds of voodoo so keep notes. Leather ain't leather. The four holsters in the pix were all cut adjacently from the same side and I felt differences as I worked them. They're for different N-frame revolvers if you're wondering why the moldings are different. The customer couldn't send his four guns and I didn't have the exact models in some cases so I went easy on the details in that case. If you're molding flesh out, which I mostly do, watch the inside - the grain side - for the color change, it's easier to gauge the casing on the grain side. Don't expect leather from different tanners to work the same. Expect water from different regions to case differently. I have access to both soft and hard water and there's a big difference in casing. That old saw - "They all the same but different!" - applies to leathercraft. I use real guns if I have them. I don't stick them in plastic bags because I want an exact fit. I want 'em as tight as Dick's hat band when they dry. After 48 hrs. I spray them thoroughly with silicone spray and put the gun in the holster to set over night, then remove the gun and let dry another 24 hrs. The holster almost spits them out after that process. Break-in is smooth. As far as casing, if you wait until the point I described above, you will not find moisture on the gun when you remove it after molding. If doubt this, shove it in the holster and immediately pull it out. It'll be dry. If it's not you're working too wet. That said, clean the gun when you done; wipe it down good. You'll have blue marks inside the holster. You'll have them eventually if you use it, unless you dye it. If the customer doesn't like that, he doesn't want what I do. There's lots of holster makers and I'm kind of set in my ways.

Randy gave you all the secrets except one - repetition - you'll probably have to make a few before you're happy. Repetition is the mother of skill!

Good luck and let us see your new holster when you're done.

Hey Bill, How's it going? Cooper and Bruce both would chastise the lot of you. Check the weapon before anything else.

I just figured I would chime in and let you know that I joined this nice little groupand started posting today. I recognized your pictures before reading the post. Nice to see you in here.

Catch ya later,

John D

[Jordan]

You're a crckup randyc, they make drill presses that will bore it out for ya. And yes numba one never ever forget to make sure that it ain't loaded.

[Hidemechanic]

The term 'HOT' always makes me nervous, so for those new to leather, anything near warm is suficiant for almost every leather job.

If it's too hot for me it's too hot for leather.

I like the casing route that Bills mentioned, then no worries. GH