wolvenstien Report post Posted October 15, 2007 I recently came into a large set of neglected tools. From what I was told these tools are 25-30 years old and have been sitting in a corner for about as long. Most are rusted and discolored. I will get pix in a few days of some of them when I am not so busy with work. When you come across tools like this, are they toast? Or can they be cleaned up and made usable again? Thanks Wolvie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 15, 2007 Even highly rusted tools can be salvaged, ID say right up tothe point of metal fatigue BUT to o so may you maybe fatigued. I can even show you how to rig a battery charger to make a very simple highly effective heavy rust remover. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted October 15, 2007 Even highly rusted tools can be salvaged, ID say right up tothe point of metal fatigue BUT to o so may you maybe fatigued. I can even show you how to rig a battery charger to make a very simple highly effective heavy rust remover. That tickled my curiosity bug, mind explaining? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted October 15, 2007 I can even show you how to rig a battery charger to make a very simple highly effective heavy rust remover. BTW & FWIW, that's exactly how you clean ancient Roman (and other) coins. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted October 15, 2007 Even highly rusted tools can be salvaged, ID say right up tothe point of metal fatigue BUT to o so may you maybe fatigued. I can even show you how to rig a battery charger to make a very simple highly effective heavy rust remover. Ok, Romey, we'll bite! How do you make it? Thank you in advance! russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 16, 2007 Hold the item in your mouth, clamp positive clamp to your left big toe and negetive to your right thumb while holding a 10 ft copper rod in left hand in a lightening storm, turn charger to trickle and wait, will blow the rust right off!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 16, 2007 (edited) Ok now if THAT dont work here is another way. I was waiting to see pics of the tool and parts before saying much but here it is. Electrolysis, A plastic tub; iron electrode (REBAR) or steel bar, water,Sodium Carbonate (Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda if you were wondering),battery charger and some way to suspend the object (chain or wire). About a half cup to 5 gallon of water (well mixed). The iron or stainless electrode is connected to the positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black). Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact. DO NOT GET IT BACKWARDS UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ITEM TO DISAPPEAR!! Make connections on a part of your electrode that protrudes out of the solution. The electrodes must not touch the part.Depending on the amount of rust, a few hours to over night is needed. Then depending on the objest a brillo pad or somthing under running water maybe needed for clean up. As soon as you turn it on you should see bubbles coming from the part being unrusted. This is pretty safe but unless you liked the film of the Hindenburg going down dont get flame near it. Hydrogen tends to burn. I say that as i have had this set up and running 20 ft from a lit coal forge. I still wouldnt stand over it with a cigerette in my hand if I smoked or a BBQ steak right next to it. That is ONE way and the very best way to get the cleanest steel but there are a few other tricks . Soaking in vinegar over night is one. Vinegar is a very mild and yet very effective acid the down side is that it will look pickled afterwards so a bit of simichrome or flitz will be needed to bring it shiney again. Before I do ANY of this i go to the wire wheel first, sandblaster second, if its horrid bad or a very large peice as can happen around a blacksmith shop, Electrolysis it is. If infact none of that works find your dumbest friend do to what I suggested in the above post. Electrolysis can be done in as small as a gallon of soloution for small parts to a hundred gallons for big peices, for instance like a iron gate. Edited October 16, 2007 by Romey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 16, 2007 BTW, B.O.,PUUU Regis is corret, Museums have used this for a long time for cleaning artifacts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjbleather Report post Posted October 18, 2007 wolvie, Another method that I have used in removing rust from some old McMillan tools that I found was to use a cream of tarter solution. I use a disposable aluminum pan with about an inch of water. I use about a tablespoon of cream of tarter. Place tools in pan and put it over a low heat. Watch the water turn dark. Ron Ross originally told me this method and it works real nice. carlb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted October 18, 2007 Hold the item in your mouth, clamp positive clamp to your left big toe and negetive to your right thumb while holding a 10 ft copper rod in left hand in a lightening storm, turn charger to trickle and wait, will blow the rust right off!! Ok, everything was going fine the rust blew right off like you said. 2 Days later I woke up in a hilltop cornfield with some severe burns on my toe and thumb. I think I'll try the next solution you gave, the first was waaaaay to dangerous & painful Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 18, 2007 But it DID get the rust off! If you need any help with the set up let me know maybe i can find some pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted October 21, 2007 Ok, sorry for not posting back sooner, and sorry for not posting the pix I said I would. Since i posted, i have been working 16 hours aday nonstop. I have not had time to think much less anything else. I like the electrolysis method, but I have a few questions... You say a battery charger... I am assuming you mean a 12v car battery charger that doesnt have the electronic built into it to detect when it is charged or to check if the battery is bad or shorted.... I have an old one like this... but it is variable voltage, and amperage.... what do you suggest the settings be to do this in say a 5 gallon bucket? These tools are the chrome plated hand stamping tools, do I need to do anything to prep them for electrolysis? will this harm the plating? I hit it with the wire wheel it would tend to harm the plating that is on it right? Again... when I get a few minutes, I will post pix. Thanks gurus... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 21, 2007 Before i say anymore I want to see pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted October 21, 2007 ok, no problem.... just give me a few days to get em together..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjbleather Report post Posted October 21, 2007 wolvenstien, Before you mess around with that charger, you really ought to try the cream of tarter solution bit. You might be surprised as I was at the results. carlb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted October 23, 2007 Ok, for some reason this keeps saying that I did not select an image to upload.... Here are the pix... Ok, so tell me what you think... Some of the tools are missing the plating in parts, some on the tooling part, some on the handles.... Also, many of these were taped together with duct tape and have residue from the tape left on them, and others are kind of marred up from being packed away and then unpacked and repacked and shipped to me... can these be repaired or no? I have a plating shop here local... I dont know if they would re-plate the tools for me or not.... can I use the electrolysis method to chrome plate these again? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted October 23, 2007 I'm thinking that the tools with the rust on the actual pattern of the tool are done for. Even if you could get all the rust out, the rust will have left a pit mark where it was. Replating is going to be more expensive than new tools I would think. As for the ones that are rusted on the knurls and such, just use your dremel with a wire wheel and then paint with a rust paint. The duct tape residue can be removed with a product sold at Home depot called "Goo Be Gone" this stuff is amazing at taking gunk like that off of anything. Good Luck Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted October 23, 2007 that sux..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted October 23, 2007 Wolvie, I have got tools like that too. If they are pitted, they still might be OK depending on the detail needed in the stamp. As far as replating them, I wouldn't. That I think is an issue with some of the new stamps - too much plating filling in details. Some of the old guys reportedly would remove the plating off their stamps to improve them. On the rusted ones I got, I did the soft wire wheel on a be4nch grinder or cream of tartar deal and was fine. If you use them enough, they don't seem to rust again. My old buddy would treat tools with kerosene if he wasn't using something. A few taps on some scrap or swipes if a hand tool and good to go. I have some of the old McMillens along with some no-name handmades and older things, just handling them keeps them fine. Rust will freckle wet leather, but once they are cleaned up, I have not had a problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted October 23, 2007 Just a silly question: on the tools that have no more plating, would the addition of gunblueing help prevent discoloration of the leather? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted October 24, 2007 Most all of the old stamping tools are iron that was never plated and they don't discolor the leather. They are just making contact with the leather long enough to make an impression , not sleeping next to it. USe the cleaner methods mentioned earlier in this thread then use the tools. Get rid of the ones that you don't like the impression results of and enjoy the rest. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveh Report post Posted October 24, 2007 soak the tools in pentatrating oil wd40 or kerosine a few days, then use a brass wire wheel on them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted October 25, 2007 soak the tools in pentatrating oil wd40 or kerosine a few days, then use a brass wire wheel on them. +1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Ok, I have all the tools soaking in 10W40 oil.... How long should I soak them....? And where can I find a Brass Wire Wheel for the bench top grinder? Checked both Harbor Freight and Home Depot and neither one have a brass wire wheel.... Thanks Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Try an automotive type supply store, or Lee Valley Tools may have them. I also think that you can get them from Dremel, but smaller than bench top grinders. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
