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I'm trying to build my first holster from scratch. I'm building a pancake style with the grain side facing out on both pieces. I have read a lot of valuable information here. You are all a wealth of knowledge. My first question; I have seen an additional piece sewn/ glued to the front of several holsters here and on other sights. Is there a reason for this other than tooling for decoration? And would this piece be put on before or after wet forming? Next; Should dying be done before wet forming or after? Or should the inside be dyed before wet forming, then finish dying after? I'm sure your responses will promote additional questions on my part. Thanks

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Usually the strip/patch/ thing of leather is to provide strength to the outer piece of leather. Keeps the holster open. Once this piece is affixed, you can go one step further. Hot water that soaks into the strip will cause it to harden. To carry it farther, they used to make armor from leather by submersing the leather in hot water.

And some add it for cosmetic reasons.

It would work better to attach the piece, then form. Again, water will make the leather a little harder and, when dry, will retain shape to a reasonable point.

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The piece is normally to strength the mouth of the holster for re holstering. I don't use them anymore. When I started I did. But I've seen no negatives to not having them. I glued and stitched it before wet forming when I add them though.

I dye all my holsters after wet forming. For me, the dye seems to inhibit the leather from taking on water. Especially if you are using vinegroon to make it black. I know some guys are using pre dyed leather. I've only tried a couple times, but I've not had much luck getting the detail on pre dyed as natural. Some guys pull it off just fine though. I'm sure it's a difference in the process.

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Your holster is called a "roughout", a style made famous by Clint Eastwood in his spaghetti western movies. I've made a few, and they are fun.

I normally do not put a piece on the front in a roughout, but that is just my way. I normally do put them on the others, most of the time.

It can be both a piece to stiffen the front of the holster, . . . and it can be a billboard for decoration, . . . tooling, . . . etc.

Like chiefjason said, . . . I cut, . . . form, . . . and then dye my holsters, too.

Just a little nugget for you, . . . if you are making a pancake, . . . do all the sewing for the leading edge of the holster, . . . wet form it around the weapon, . . . gently remove the weapon and let it dry.

When it is fully dry (no less than 24 hours later), put the weapon back in the holster, clamp it tight with your left hand, and using your right hand, mark your sewing lines for the trailing edge of the holster (around the trigger guard, barrel bottom and rear slot). This will give you a good tight sew line if you do it right. Trying to guess where the stitches should go has about a 1 in 10 success factor.

May God bless,

Dwight

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grain side is the front smooth side of the leather where tooling is usually done. flesh side is the rough back side of the leather.

the spot you are talking about helps to hold the holster open for reholstering. its not necessary if the holster is formed right.

i do my measuring, layout and stitching before i wet form the holster. auto handguns stitch line is 1/2 the thickness of slide plus thickness of 1 layer of lesliather.

for example. 1911 slide is 1/2" plus 1/8" for 8 oz leather== stitch line on pattern. now mark 5/8" from the outline of the gun you drew. this is your stitch line. now glue sew and wet form then dye. then oil and finish

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When it is fully dry (no less than 24 hours later), put the weapon back in the holster, clamp it tight with your left hand, and using your right hand, mark your sewing lines for the trailing edge of the holster (around the trigger guard, barrel bottom and rear slot). This will give you a good tight sew line if you do it right. Trying to guess where the stitches should go has about a 1 in 10 success factor.

May God bless,

Dwight

If this sewing machine deal works out I might give this a shot. I'm doing mine a bit different right now. Still getting good results. But never hurts to try something new.

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Thank you all for the information. Leatherjunkie, that is the way I am doing this. Saw it on a youtube vid. Maybe you?? So does one stain and finish the grain sides as well? If so, how I've heard several light coats of 50/50 resolene and water for a final finish.

Oops, I meant how to finish the flesh sides.

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dip dye will dye the flesh side as well. i don't like projects that are dyed/stained on grain side only. to me this is not finished(unless i want the color contrast).

using leather with a fairley smooth flesh side will help the finish process 100%. i switched to herman oak with a fairley smooth flesh side. after dying the holster i saw that the flesh side smoothed out more and when installing firearm(double check empty!!!!!!!!!!!!)during wet forming helps to smooth the flesh side up too. you did check to insure firearm is empty right?????

light coats of oil and a final finish of any finish will protect the leather. Bobby Rose aka Treed(username on here) uses gum trag heavy on flesh side and slicks the heck out of it with a slicker/bone folder to finish stubborn flesh sides.

Send Bobby a message or email he should get back to you.

Sometimes I go a little overboard when it comes to making sure people check the firearm for empty. its not a dig, just getting my point out that you need to insure the firearm is empty and ammo is not any where close to where you are working on the holster and gun.

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Thanks for the information. Going to glue and stitch it up this evening. I assume dip dyeing is exactly what it sounds like. Submerge the project in the dye of your choice. If it turns out decent, I'll try to post a pic for comments/criticisms.

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Post pictures no matter how it turns out. People here can help either way.

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