What Am I Doing Wrong.

[silentghost]

In cannot for the life of me get my holsters (granted I am newer at this) to have that nice detailed look when I go to wet form them. I get the leather wet and I try and try to get nice definition of all the various creases and lines and such, but I just can't get it to look right. What am I doing wrong? Perhaps the quality of the leather is the concern (Got from Tandy)? Maybe I am not just working it long enough? Leather to thin or too thick (7-8 ounce)? Any suggestions someone may have for me would be greatly appreciated.

[particle]

Buy yourself some Herman Oak or Wickett & Craig and you'll see a world of difference. I have a video on my site in the How's it Made section that might help. That was H.O. leather if memory serves, otherwise it was W&C.

[Denster]

In cannot for the life of me get my holsters (granted I am newer at this) to have that nice detailed look when I go to wet form them. I get the leather wet and I try and try to get nice definition of all the various creases and lines and such, but I just can't get it to look right. What am I doing wrong? Perhaps the quality of the leather is the concern (Got from Tandy)? Maybe I am not just working it long enough? Leather to thin or too thick (7-8 ounce)? Any suggestions someone may have for me would be greatly appreciated.

How wet you are getting it has a huge effect. Most folks get the leather too wet. With 7/8OZ it only requires about a two second dunk in a basin of warm water. Let the holster return to natural color before you start to bone in the details.

[troop]

what Particle said is correct. quality leather makes a big difference. also 7/8 may be too thick to get real detailed moulding. try a 6/7 first and see how that works for you.

Tony

[silentghost]

Thank you everyone for the replies. I will give those a try and see how it goes. Thanks again!

[Shooter McGavin]

I use 7-8oz leather on all my items. Saddle skirting from W&C. I cant get super detailed with it but it suits my style fine.

However, when I first started out I was using the Tandy shoulders and still had good luck with them.

But ya, let the leather dry out some before you start getting into it. Also, which tools you use might come into play.

Almost all of my detail work are done with these 2 rather inexpensive tools from Tandy.

Horn Creaser

Plastic Bone Folder

[chiefjason]

What are you comparing yourself too? When I started out I looked at lots of professional holsters and decided what I wanted to be able to do eventually. First holster was OK, but comparing to other stuff I was not happy. Then I found out a lot of the very detailed holsters are pressed not hand molded. Not sure if you will ever get the detail by hand that you would with a press. Just make sure you are not comparing apples to oranges. My last holster I am very happy with. It's not what I may have originally wanted to be able to do, but now that I know I was comparing 2 different techniques it has changed my attitude about the details. My first few holsters were using 8-9 oz and I was able to get pretty good detail on them. Letting it dry a bit helps too. If the leather is too damp it has a tendency to not take the boning and you start to loose the details. If you have to go back and try to rework stuff it might be too damp.

[Haystacker]

I think the most common mistake when trying to wet mold holsters is not waiting for the leather to dry enough. If you work the leather when it is too wet the leather will not hold that sharp definition you are looking for.

I agree with Shooter, you can get good results with Tandy leather provided you are using veg tanned sides, shoulders or backs, not bellies.

I personally prefer Herman Oak or Wicket and Craig for commercial use. For hobby stuff, you just can't beat the convenience of Tandy.

Best Luck,

Jeff

[silentghost]

Thanks again for all of the replies and suggestions. I have some new leather on the way and will try the boning techniques from above.

[renegadelizard]

I go a different route alltogether...i get my leather as wet as it can get, stretch it till it moos at me, then let it dry as im constantly working and reworking it...i do it this way because i set my stitch lines on the too close side...ive had a few factory holsters that wore out fairly quickly due to streching...i figure if i pre stretch it, it will stretch less with prolong use...baking it at 170 for 20 minutes with the door cracked open sets it real nice and stiff...

Thanks again for all of the replies and suggestions. I have some new leather on the way and will try the boning techniques from above.

[Denster]

I go a different route alltogether...i get my leather as wet as it can get, stretch it till it moos at me, then let it dry as im constantly working and reworking it...i do it this way because i set my stitch lines on the too close side...ive had a few factory holsters that wore out fairly quickly due to streching...i figure if i pre stretch it, it will stretch less with prolong use...baking it at 170 for 20 minutes with the door cracked open sets it real nice and stiff...

With all due respect. You do not want to do any of these things if you expect to have a good looking functional holster. Less wet for a nice looking surface and crisp molding and drying at between 120 and 130 deg F are the way to go.

[renegadelizard]

tried that approach and it didn't work out to well for me..i use 9-10 oz HO single shoulders, and a 2 second, hell, a 10 second dip doesnt do anything for them...i still get good lines..and they click in and out ....well, you be the judge...oh, and the brown lcp holster is a personal one made from scraps that i wouldn't use on a customers holster...belly edges i think...it still turned out serviceable..

With all due respect. You do not want to do any of these things if you expect to have a good looking functional holster. Less wet for a nice looking surface and crisp molding and drying at between 120 and 130 deg F are the way to go.

Edited July 19, 2012 by renegadelizard