Hot Waxing Sheaths And Holsters

[LuisPaulo]

I saw some videos on Youtubeabout hot waxing knife sheaths.....

Some questions about this.

Does anyone use this ?

Does use pure bees wax ? It is a bit expensive here, and turns solid in a few seconds after boiling it, so.... could I use another ingredient witrh the bees wax ?

How to do ? I try it some time ago, and I make a mess on the kitchen owen . My wife becomes not much happy with this....lol

If a make a caving on the leather, doesn't ruin it ?

Doesn't affect the leather ?

Does really make the sheath waterproof ?

Thank you and excuse me about the lot of questions.

Edited November 16, 2010 by LuisPaulo

[TwinOaks]

Here's a link to the sheath making process as described:Ragweed forge sheath making

I think that will fairly well explain it.

[DCKNIVES]

In my opinion and that of my mentor who is a Master leathersmith and has been at it for 60 years is that hot waxing is not very good and serves no purpose on sheaths and holsters.If not done properly it can ruin your product. It doesn't look good on embellished items and is way more work than it, than the benefit you get from it. Leather Sheen, and Tan-kote will give a better finish with alot less mess and work.Dave

[Dwight]

A lady on here some time back gave a tip on wax etc. that I have used and I like it's effect on certain items.

Take an old crock pot you don't use for food, . . . fill it half way with water.

Put a jar in it that you don't need, . . . put several ounces of pure, virgin bees wax in the jar, . . . and the exact same weight of pure virgin neatsfoot oil also in the jar.

Turn on the crock pot, . . . and let them melt together (takes about an hour at my place), . . . remove the jar.

Pour the liquid into some sort of mold, to harden.

You can then use the cake of wax/oil to rub over your project, . . . then using a soft cloth, or just your fingers, . . . rub it in deep to the project. I won't use it on a holster, but on some of my other projects I have found it works really well, . . . I like the look and the feel of it. It can take several coats to get the effect you desire.

She made a ver strong point about it, . . . if something happens, . . . it is real easy to restore the original.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

Interesting topic.

I live in Pueblo, Colorado, which was generally acknowledged as the saddle-making center of the North American universe (prior to the big flood about 1920 that obliterated just about everything for miles around).

Some of the old-timers I have visited with have shared with me the turn-of-the-century (20th Century that is) method of finishing saddles, and other gear that was intended for extended use out-of-doors. That method seems to have consisted of warming a pan of neatsfoot oil to a point that it would melt and combine with a (roughly equivalent) quantity of beeswax. That mixture was used, warm from the stove, and rubbed into newly-finished leather items using shearling swabs, then the finish was buffed with soft cloth to a fine satin-sheen finish.

Routine maintenance was reportedly additional applications of neatsfoot oil, with or without the beeswax. This, of course, resulted in considerable softening of the leather, and would not be recommended for cased-and-blocked items such as holsters (as we generally perceive their functions today), but appears to have been highly satisfactory "back in the day" for saddles and other accroutrements intended for extended exposure to weather, and benefitting from a supple finished state.

I think that similar methods were used for several generations prior to the advent of the modern acrylic sealants, and generally good results could still be had to this day providing that one has the patience and willingness to spend the necessary time to learn and apply such practices.

Neatsfoot oil is an excellent means of replacing the natural moisture content of leather after vegetable-tanning, wet-forming, and the drying process (all of which sap away natural moisture content from the leather). Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone, resulting in limp and useless products. However, when properly applied I believe that neatsfoot oil can provide an element of flexibility in cased-and-blocked wet-formed leather articles that can provide lasting protection against moisture infiltration while also contributing to a degree of flexibility that resists cracking due to overly-dried veg-tanned leather (a common state, given the practices in general use today, in my opinion).

As evidenced by several earlier posts, there are those who will argue fiercely against any use of neatsfoot oil in holster finishing. Those sources should be acknowledged and appreciated for their contributions to the craft. For myself, I will always rely on the methods that have been proven over centuries of use, and that includes modest applications of neatsfoot oil, and beeswax is a staple in my little shop. One of these days I fully intend to complete a holster rig using nothing but the original 19th Century methods of production and finishing processes. When I find the time I will share the results.

Best regards.

[LuisPaulo]

Thanks for the replies.

I supposed that to do this (using heat) could be a little to agressive method.....

For my taste, and because here i don't have easy access to a variety of products, I prefer to use more traditional methods.

I'll try the neatsfoot / beesswax formula. I made a similar, but include carnauba wax.

Lobo, please show us your project when you finished it !!!