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jwalters0027

Hello, Newbie Looking For Guidance

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First off, hello everyone, I'm new and looking for some advice on buying a sewing machine. i've already read so much information on this site I think my head is going to explode. I'm trying to make my own thai pads, gloves, and shin guards for muay thai(kickboxing) and have been reading for almost a week everything imaginable about sewing machines capable of sewing leather. I don't have a huge budget, but it doesn't seem like the thickness of what I'll be sewing will require one. I've decided on the sailrite ultrafeed ls-1, it seems like the right choice but I would definitely want to hear anyone on heres input because I don't know anything about sewing. The thai pads would have to be the most rugged because they take so much abuse, but I don't know what weight leather they would be. Would this machine have enough power to sew something like this easily. I don't think I would ever need to sew anything much heavier than this. Thanks for all replies and suggestions.

boon-thai-pads-large-1018-p.jpg

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Looks to me like they are using a pretty large thread?The Sailrite won't use anything larger than #92.

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also, if I just need it to be strong, could I use kevlar thread? can you use kevlar thread to sew leather? would the small size of 92 kevlar thread cut through the leather? thanks.

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also, if I just need it to be strong, could I use kevlar thread? can you use kevlar thread to sew leather? would the small size of 92 kevlar thread cut through the leather? thanks.

It'll cut through soft leather like an Exacto knife. It will destroy a Sailrite or equivalent machine, buy cutting grooves in everything along the thread path. You might as well sew with round abrasive cord as Kevlar. Only the most beefed up walking foot machines can withstand Kevlar thread.

If you use a good quality #92 bonded nylon, or bonded polyester thread, sewn at 7 or 8 stitches per inch, it will hold the work together just fine. Linhanyl thread is very good, and is sold by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (Sewmun) and most of our other member-dealers.

If you can afford a new Sailrite, for maybe five hundred more you can probably get a full-blown industrial walking foot machine, with a powerful servo motor and 20"x48" table. These machines can easily use #138 bonded thread and are much beefier than any portable walking foot machine on the market. They come with standard or large bobbins, with the large holding about double the capacity. The Sailrite uses the smaller standard bobbins. It is not a production machine, but is designed for canvas and vinyl repairs or prototype work.

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Thanks for the replies. Wizcrafts, what machine would you suggest? There are so many manufacturers and I really have no idea which ones are worthwhile. Also, is there a good article anywhere that explains the different thread sizes? I've got a spool of this coats and clark polyester outdoor thread, it says d71 on the bottom. I used it for something a while back and it seemed pretty tough. The thai pads I use everyday don't have stitching like that. It's much smaller. Would the larger stitching improve the durability?

muaytahi.jpg

Edited by jwalters0027

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Thanks for the replies. Wizcrafts, what machine would you suggest? There are so many manufacturers and I really have no idea which ones are worthwhile. Also, is there a good article anywhere that explains the different thread sizes? I've got a spool of this coats and clark polyester outdoor thread, it says d71 on the bottom. I used it for something a while back and it seemed pretty tough. The thai pads I use everyday don't have stitching like that. It's much smaller. Would the larger stitching improve the durability?

Before I can recommend any machine I would need to see these pads laid out for sewing, with mating seams paper-clipped or taped together. If they are to be stuffed before the last stitches are done, it may call for a cylinder arm machine, allowing you to sew right up to the edge, with the bulky part handing down.

There is no need to use anything larger than #92 bonded thread. If the pads are going to be exposed to UV rays, or water, outdoor polyester is recommended. Otherwise, use Linhanyl, or Weaver bonded nylon thread. The correct needle width for #92 thread is between #19 and #21. The smaller needle size makes a smaller hole and tighter stitch. Also, use leather point needles, which produce a slightly zig-zaggy stitch. You can get the stitches closer together with this kind of needle and top pattern.

This looks like fairly light chap leather, probably about 3 to 4 ounces thickness. Am I correct in this guess? If so, any industrial sewing machine can sew them, but walking foot mechanism provides the strongest feed system.

If it turns out that you need to finish these pads after stuffing them, a medium duty cylinder arm machine will be perfect. There are many available in this market. Names that come to mind are the old Singer 153 type (forward only), upon which the Consew, Cowboy, Techsew and other model number 227 machines are based (but they have reverse). I recently had a close up look at the Cowboy 227R and it got my attention as a serious mid-weight stitcher. It can easily sew 3/8" of leather, with #138 thread, although #92 will last a lot longer in the bobbins. It also has an interesting self-oiling system and sews really close to the left edge, with narrow compound walking feet.

Other machines with cylinder arms, but just bottom feed and a flat pressor foot, will also do this kind of sewing quite well. They include the Adler 105-64 and its clones. These include the Cowboy CB2500R and Techsew GA5-1R; available from our member-dealers.

Edited by Wizcrafts

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Hello:

From what I see from the photos that you have provided, you should look at a heavy weight machine made for sewing heavy leather. Definitely something with an oscillating hook, something that will handle heavy thread. The heavier the machine will sew, the heavier the thread it will use. We offer a machine called a Cowboy Model CB-4500 machine. This machine is made to sew up to 3/4 thick, with thread up to size 554. Comparable models would be the Cobra Class 4, as well as the Artisan Toro 4000.

From what i see in the photos you would not want to use a lighter weight machine for this type of work. It looks like a machine like the 227 may be a bit too small, and as this machine does have a smaller bobbin, if you use a heavier thread, you will be constantly changing bobbins. It is better to have a machine that is more than capable of doing the task than to take one that you would be working to death to get the job done.

The cylinder arm on the 441 machine is about 3 inches in diamater. Not sure if you plan on sticking the work inside the arm of the machine, but if you do, please make a note of the larger arm diameter on the machine.

I see also some of the handles on the pads seem to be pretty thick. These could easily be sewn on a heavier machine, with larger needles, and with a thick thread.

Anyhow, just wanted to throw in my two cents worth. If you have any additional questions on machines to do your job, please contact me by phone at (330) 692-1418.

Kindest Regards,

Ryan O. Neel

Neel's Saddlery and Harness

Cowboy Sewing Machines

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Thanks for the comments. I unlaced one of them and took some pictures to see if it would help show the construction. The handles are thick, but not sewn through, just along the edge which is relatively thin. It's two separate pieces that are laced together over a piece of re-bonded foam. Some of the machines suggested seem to be out of my price range. The first picture shows the leather doubled over. It's maybe a little thicker than a piece of denim.

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Thanks for the comments. I unlaced one of them and took some pictures to see if it would help show the construction. The handles are thick, but not sewn through, just along the edge which is relatively thin. It's two separate pieces that are laced together over a piece of re-bonded foam. Some of the machines suggested seem to be out of my price range. The first picture shows the leather doubled over. It's maybe a little thicker than a piece of denim.

Based on your photos, I stand by my original recommendations. The Cowboy 227R is perfect for this kind of job. It can even sew the final seam shut, foam in, hanging down over the closely cutoff end of the arm. It has a large hook and M-size bobbin, which holds plenty of thread (#69 to #138) and has just over a half inch of clearance under the raised feet. And, it natively sews perfectly fine stitches with #69 or #92 thread, which the larger harness stitching machines might need to be modified to handle (for very thin needles, thread and soft material).

How do you know that these machines are beyond your price range? Call Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, at 866-362-7397 and ask for the price on the Cowboy 227R. You may be pleasantly surprised.

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Hey guys, would a pfaff 145-h3 do the trick?

HEY newbie. Welcome to the forum. You will get great advice hear, just listen. Please read my post, one up from yours, about question like what about "xyz and a 1100-xxx by sazukijauketango"

Take the advice and run to get the right machine, or save your pennies, boxtops and beer cans until you can.

By the way I think my singer 31-15 and 2xx-xx and a union special and ?????? that I can sell you would be perfect for you to learn on.

I get your money...and you get my experience. I think thats a fair trade, don't YOU?????

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