Setting Copper Rivets And Burrs

[c2369zulu]

Yep, here is that same old topic again .

Ok leather professionals, I am still not getting good results with the copper rivet and burr method of riveting. I have read a lot of the previous threads that have mentioned everything from cutting the rivet shaft flush to the same thickness of leather you are riveting, to cutting the stud at 1/8th height and then dome, to cutting the stud at 1/16th height and dome over and I have even read where some use a ball peen to start the mushrooming (which I like). My problem seems to be that either the mushroomed head is mishapen and thin on some edges leaving a sharp edge or part of the stud is mushroomed to one side, and sometimes the mushrooming is good on one side, but the burr somehow rides up on the other half. Other issues include burrs being loose after using setter/setter marks all over leather/setter marks on leather when doming, though mushrooming not yet complete. What am I doing wrong here? I have tried everything. It is pretty frustrating to spend a lot of time on a project only to have a rivet not set properly and have to dig it out and ruin/nearly ruin the leather in that area. I seem to seldom ever get a nice round dome. Attached are a few sketches of some of the issues I am referring to.......Rory

Scan_Doc0002.pdf

[Dwight]

Best thing I can suggest, . . . buy a bag of rivets, . . . punch holes in some scrap leather, . . . spend an evening practicing.

Honestly, . . . my first copper rivets didn't belong on a mule strap for a coal mine, . . . but it did hold.

Once you learn the ball peen thing, . . . you need a SMALL ball peen for this, . . . it gets better. I kinda go around the edge, . . . and there will be a little "point" left in the middle when I get done, . . . that's when I get the mushroom tool.

It also helps if you drive the washer down real firm. If you don't the copper rivet can bend, . . . lean over, . . . all sorts of nasty stuff.

ALSO, . . . I do my rivets on a 12 x 12 x 1/4 inch steel plate on my work bench. Having that "unmoveable" object under the rivet makes a world of difference. Fact is, . . . I won't even start one if I don't have something like that as a anvil. Those little Tandy anvils aren't good for this, . . . IMHO.

Truly, though, . . . practice it a bit, . . . the price of a full bag of rivets is a whole lot cheaper than ruining a really nice project.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited May 1, 2013 by Dwight

[mikesmith648]

It also sounds like the tools are not necessarily the proper size........I use Judd setters and have 3 sizes..........I have never had the problems you described unless I tried to set on a too soft surface as Dwight said. also not setting the washer tight or the piece moving while you set will cause these problems.......A combination of the right tools, proper surface, and hitting directly down and not a glancing blow will result in a better looking rivet. PRACTICE................as again Dwight suggested

[c2369zulu]

Thanks guys. I think I may look into better tools. Maybe a smaller ball peen hammer and a better setter. I generally set the washer tight (which is what leaves a partial setter impression on the surrounding leather because of the tools size). I don't really like the combination setter/dome tool from Tandy. My work surface could also be the problem. I need something more solid. When I first started leatherwork, I actually set several rivets for a project on in-use railroad tracks because I did not have a sturdy work surface ........Rory

[mikesmith648]

you can get the Judd setters at Sheridan Leather Outfitters...........not sure who else might carry them

[c2369zulu]

Thanks Mike. Do you have a photo of a properly set rivet? I may be leaving too much height after clipping the stud and there is just too much to try to mushroom......Rory