Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
The chemical department. Coloring and accenting your work, protecting it from the elements and ravages of time, care and maintainance of leather, and preservation and restoration of old leather.
2,967 topics in this forum
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I was wondering if using a damp sponge squeezed out thouroughly was ok to use when dying, or should it be bone dry? Futhermore, is it ok to use the same sponge over again, with the same dye of course. Or is scrap wool a better method? Or is it just personal preference? Also is there a way to keep the back of projects from getting stain on them, or am I just being careless? It seems difficult. Are there any tricks? Thanks, Alex
Last reply by joet, -
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I like to hand sew with an awl and saddle stitch. I can edge ok, but sometimes I worry about the appearance of my edges. Does anyone have any hints and maybe some ideas on different types of edging techniques?
Last reply by abn, -
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There are times pictures say a thousand words. The idea of "resists" is to coat part of the design with Neat Lac (or some sort of Shene which will prevent the antique from penetrating the leather) in order to bring out the contrast. These two pictures are from Dave Howell, Tandy Manager in Nashville, used with permission. Note the differences are subtle, but present. Johanna
Last reply by Johanna, -
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Does anyone know of a way to remove mold and mildew from a piece of tooling leather? I kept my project damp in a bag in the refrigerator and when I took it out to work on it again I noticed spots of mold and mildew. It was only in there a week! It's a bible cover and I am almost finished with it. I'm so upset.
Last reply by abn, -
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Okay this is really going to show how green I am. (made a wallet in highschool years and years ago, but one I cant remember what we used back then... two... it really didnt look all that good when I was done... and three... Im sure they have come out with alot more products that are better to use now even if I could remember what I used way back then) On a wallet what type, or brand of dye would you all recommend, and would I need to apply anything other than the dye for a wallet. Going for the dark shade with the antique leather look if that helps. Suggestions appreciated.
Last reply by Johanna, -
I just finished a couple projects using kits from Tandy. The first one is set of can koozies. I liked the floral pattern that came with the kit so I used it. On the insulated cup I used a belt pattern from a Robert Beard class that I took a few years ago. Both pieces were finished with a coat of neatsfoot oil followed by a coat of neatlac. Some people say that combination isn't supposed to work, but I have had good results using it. I rub the oil in good, and then let it set for a bit, then apply the neatlac and rub it in really good too. These were fairly quick and easy to make up. They got a pretty good reaction from my family. Clay
Last reply by ClayB, -
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I am currently working on a purse for my fiance. It involves a large amount of basketweave with a small amount of carving. I am looking for the correct way to get the golden color on the leather (much like the color of the horse/wagon carving at the top left of the screen). I have found some information that tends to indicate that it is an oiled and sealed finish. That particular source of information says that they use olive oil and let the sun color it. I have tried it and got more of a carmel color than the above. I have also tried pure neatsfoot with a better result. I have also tried diluting antique finish but it seemed to take the 'life' out of the leather. I have …
Last reply by twostepct,
