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I contacted Mando in France about the tool and fittings. It's still $600 + to get one shipped over here.

I'm still stumped about what kind of wax/paint is being used. I tried some Angelus leather paint but I'm sure it doesn't melt and smooth out like the material used with the filetuese.

I also contacted Peter Nitz about this tool. He took awhile to respond but did say he may start a blog in the future about leatherwork.

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I'm using modified soldering iron with brass tips (from China) in combination with Tandy (Fenice) EcoFlo Proffecional Edge Paint (Section Lacquer). The procedure is: Traditional burnishing (saddle soap/water - not Gum Tragacanth!), than a coat with edge paint. Leave it to dry at least two hours, than apply heat treatment, sand it with sand paper 320, and final coat with edge paint. For smooth effect (like on Hermes stuff), sand it again lightly, rub some beeswax, polish with canvas, rub a paraffin wax and final polish.

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I'm using modified soldering iron with brass tips (from China) in combination with Tandy (Fenice) EcoFlo Proffecional Edge Paint (Section Lacquer). The procedure is: Traditional burnishing (saddle soap/water - not Gum Tragacanth!), than a coat with edge paint. Leave it to dry at least two hours, than apply heat treatment, sand it with sand paper 320, and final coat with edge paint. For smooth effect (like on Hermes stuff), sand it again lightly, rub some beeswax, polish with canvas, rub a paraffin wax and final polish.

Can you provide more details as to the mods done to the soldering iron? And some pics please??

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Posted (edited)

Hi,

I did nothing special, just widen top of the rod so it can accommodate Chinese brass tips (which are wider than the ones supplied with it). For temp. regulation I'm using just external dimmer unit - less voltage - less temp.. So, nothing special, ordinary cheap soldering iron bought in Clas Ohlson/Biltema (Scandinavia) or Walmart or wherever you find cheap 16W SI. Some images:

1. Soldering Iron

Soldering iron

2. Finished edge on printed calf

image

3. One pass with ink after burnishing, before heat treatment on J&E Sedgwick english bridle shoulder

image 2

4. After second pass with ink after heat treatment on J&E Sedgwick english bridle shoulder

image 1

Edited by malchik
  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Video showing how I did edges before (I simplified the process recently)

. Unless you want to se a whole video, jump 27:13 to see the process.
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Posted (edited)

Malchik, looks like you got some great results from the modified soldering iron. I'll be attempting the same thing with a cheapo one I got off Amazon and the same brass tips from China. Most of the negative reviews for the iron say it isn't hot enough for soldering, so I'm hoping the temperature will be okay for finishing edges. If not, I may have to look into one of those dimmer units you're referencing. I'm no electrician, but it doesn't sound terribly complicated.

I know Peter Nitz, whose video started this discussion, uses Beraud edge paint, but I'll be giving it a go with Angelus. Has anyone had any success with this brand and heat treatment.

Thanks, everyone! This thread has been a lifesaver.

Edited by EricIsaiah
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Posted

Malchik, looks like you got some great results from the modified soldering iron. I'll be attempting the same thing with a cheapo one I got off Amazon and the same brass tips from China. Most of the negative reviews for the iron say it isn't hot enough for soldering, so I'm hoping the temperature will be okay for finishing edges. If not, I may have to look into one of those dimmer units you're referencing. I'm no electrician, but it doesn't sound terribly complicated.

I know Peter Nitz, whose video started this discussion, uses Beraud edge paint, but I'll be giving it a go with Angelus. Has anyone had any success with this brand and heat treatment.

Thanks, everyone! This thread has been a lifesaver.

If is it not hot enough for soldering it doesn't mean is not hot enough for hot glazing since required temp. is lower than to melt a tin (about 230C - 450F). But, if is it to low, dimmer doesn't help since it is used to lower temp.

About edge paint, I'm using Fenice (section lacquer) made - Tandy used to sell it as Professional Edge paint. Works fine for my use. I doubt regarding Angelus since it's acrylic paint. I did some tests with some other acrylic paints without any success - at least in combination with hot glazing (just peels off the paint).

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Posted

Cheers, Malchik

Yeah, that's why I picked this iron, because the temperature seems to be lower. My concern is that the non-adjustable irons are too HOT, not too cool. Mine is apparently 25w, so we'll see if that's too much. If it is, I'll have to look into the dimmer.

About the edge paint: I'll have to check out the other kinds of edge paint. I've never done this before so I just kind of assumed they were all acrylic for some reason. I'll give it a try with the Angelus, but if it doesn't work, I'll have to move on to the Fenice you're talking about. I chose Angelus because Lee05 said he uses it to finish his gator edges in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54013&hl=. I'm not sure if he uses heat in his edging, though.

Thanks again

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