Aventurine

What brand groover tool will have decent quality and the most easily obtainable replacement tips? (I can't imagine resharpening these little things without a microscope...)? Is this a case where Tandy is our friend?

Good lord. I have read the foregoing and I am still baffled. Please can anyone answer to these specific cases: 1). If I am going to use .6mm wide thread, what John James needles do I need, in whatever sizing system applies in the USA and Amazon in the year 2024 ? 2). If I am to use 1.0mm thick thread, what needles? https://www.amazon.com/RMLeatherSupply-Saddlers-Harness-Needles-Leather/dp/B07477V1LG

I'm disposed to buy this Owden as my first groover tool because it comes with three different tips and it's a brand that isn't bad. Two questions: 1) Would it be better to get something with the gourd-shaped handle rather than this pencil-shaped handle? 2) If I decide I don't like the handle, will I be able to use these tips in another manufacturer's handle (which ones?)? Or if I don't like the quality of the tips, can I get replacement tips from another manufacturer to fit (which ones?)? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081LZZYBH

Hmm without power tools, just Arkansas stones and crocus cloth and a strop, I fear I might get the blade out of round. I don't like the costs of replacement blades, though. Or the waste. Would you try to do it entirely by hand?

@FredK....those look like...manicure tools?? Brilliant!

Thank you. I have looked around quite a bit and I just don't find the specifics I need -- "With *this* weight leather use *this* size of *this* tool". It's mostly "Here's the kind of tool I use to do this kind of thing". I'm grateful for the more specific advice here. Regarding using tools straight out of the box -- I expect the usual sharpening. What I am unwilling to deal with is the need to grind off burs, or smooth the ridges between tines of poorly manufactured stitching chisels, or modify the width of a beveling blade, or smooth the inside of the eye of a sewing awl, or re-set the position of an awl blade so that it is angled properly to the flat side of the handle. I need basic good craftsmanship from the manufacturer.

Two perfect solutions. Thank you!

Ah! It's called a *carrot* ! Now I know! I've used one and for some reason only knew it as a burnishing pin. Yes my questions are sadly and utterly newbish. Apart from Sheridan-style decorative leather tooling (for which I never had to do the cutting and stitching, only the decoration) my experience is limited to buckskin. The only tools I ever needed for that were some awls, some needles, and a sturdy pair of shears. I am never quite sure where to post my questions --- under the newbie general rubric or under the specific sort of skill or tool I need to know about. I hope when I err the admin will move me to the right place.

Does anyone use Diudus tools? Are they decent quality?

Fiskar used to make a "heavy duty" rotary cutter. They also made one labelled "All-Purpose" (which seemed a bit bold...I wonder if they put a warranty on that). Now I can only find them without either of those specialty markers -- the differences are in handle design, blade size, and blade material. So, three questions: 1) If I buy one that doesn't promise it's for leather, will it be okay? 2) Are the titanium coated blades desirable? The tungsten blades? 3) If I get one with a small blade (for precision) can I stick a large blade on it sometimes for long straight cutting -- and vice versa -- are they interchangeable? (Raw beginner here, trying to minimize equipment expenses and still get decent quality stuff). Thank you.

Is it possible/desirable to sharpen rotary cutter blades? What about the tungsten or titanium coated steel blades in the specialty Fiskar cutters?

Hmm. Quite chaotic. Well I will forgive myself for being baffled. To be specific, if I want to use between 6 oz and 10 oz leathers and give them fully rounded edges, would this set of Wuta tools probably do the job? And Fred...do you mean an actual carrot slicer? OR do you mean the skiving tool with the blade in a little square frame at the end of the handle? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9QL37X/

I don’t understand how edge bevelers are sized. What bevelers should I get for 5 oz (2mm) veg tan? 6oz? 7, 8, 9, 10, 12 oz?

I seem to be allergic to the plasticky stuff of the cutting mat I handled today. Does anyone use something else? What did people use before the synthetic cutting and punching mats anyhow? Rawhide? Felt? Soft wood board? Damp clay slab? Wax tray?

I seem to be allergic to the plasticky stuff of the cutting mat I handled today. Does anyone use something else? What did people use before the synthetic cutting and punching mats anyhow? Rawhide? Felt? Soft wood board? Damp clay slab? Wax tray?

@Sup thank you for the reminder. No fears, I am vaccinated and always have Povidine and such stuff in the house.

I think I’ll just plan on dyeing the leather blood-red @Aven, those turn shoes sound like exactly what I’d want to start with! Please, what kind of skiving knife? End-sharpened like a chisel or triangular side sharpened like an x-acto blade (“English knife”)? And what size? Would it differ according to the thickness or hardness of the leathers? For the heavy leathers you describe, how heavy a thread, how long a stitch, and how big an awl blade? I understand that the lore on this is that you should make the holes small and tight so that they will grip the thread and not allow it to “saw”into the leather with use. I don’t know how to apply that advice though.

Thank you. I will probably be too embarrassed to post pictures but we'll see. Can you advise me on what sewing chisel to use for .6mm thread; 5, 6, and 7 stitches per inch?

@Mablung, thank you for answering! I do want to use undyed veg tan and linen thread for environmental/health/traditional aesthetic reasons, to tool it, and dye it myself with natural dyes. With enough oils and waxing I feel okay about wet and weather. As to weight/stiffness, my current work boots are probably 4 to 5 oz; I think closer to 5, but your comment makes me realize I better get advice pertaining to tools for working with 4oz too because maybe I'll have to move down to that. Eventually lasted shoes, yes...but it will be a long expensive project getting lasts for my size 8 4E spatulate feet with narrrow straight heel and short toes. I'll save that for another post. . For the immediate future, I am hoping I can make things with more support than moccasins, including insole, heavy leather midsole, glued-on rubber outsole, and a maybe a short heel, without the last. Not sure yet. For now while learning the basic skills, the tools I need to buy most carefully are the sewing chisels because good ones are so expensive.

Topic: stitching chisel Context: Total newbie to shoemaking (I make buckskin moccasins and want to move on to more structured shoes in firm leather). I have lists of the *kinds* of tools I should get, but the lists are general because the exact sizes/specs depend on the kind of shoe you want to make and the weight of leather you want to use. I need more specific advice in order to get the minimal set of serviceable tools. Intended use: To start, I want to make simple medieval-ish high shoes and ankle boots from work-shoe leather, roughly 2mm (5 oz), vegetable tanned, lined in leather as well. I want the work to be strong without looking too coarse, so I'm guessing .55 or .6mm waxed linen thread at around 7 or 8 stitches per inch for the tops? And to stitch the soles... I don't know. Suggestions? Problem: For the sake of neat regularity I'd like to use a diamond point stitching chisel. The ways these tools are described and marketed is completely baffling me. I can't choose. Request: What's the appropriate tooth size and tooth distance for what I want to do?? And what is the best value-for-money brand for a tool that fits that description? Whatever you recommend, please, I need it to be good out of the box. (I don't have either the willingness or the power grinders and stuff to refine a sloppily tooled tool. I have Arkansas stones and Crocus cloth.)