ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

Wow that is a beautiful and well-considered holster! Love the hockey game idea! Anyone know if a kendo stick would work?

You have given me the idea of caning it with some rebar or a mesquite branch, and if I had access to the leather to try it, I totally would just in the name of research. My biggest hesitance at the moment is that I don’t have any scrap big enough to test. I’d go for an econo belly from Tandy, but they’ve been out for about 3wks now

I guess I should mention that, outside of the rivets, there is no decoration or ornamentation for the breastplate, just the patina and wear.

So it’s for cosplay, not LARP. (The difference I’m not sure. Maybe watching, not playing?) But, who wants to show up in brand new armor without a single knick on it? Which begs the question: how do I mimic battle damage/wear without swinging an actual weapon at it? I had been using my test swatch for the dye to try different methods of abuse, but the marks left even the spine of my heaviest cleaver just look like I got into a fight with a box cutter. All help appreciated

Dusting off a long-dead thread, but yeah, those look incredibly well done! I salute you, sir!

Do these offer any wrist support, or are they just forearm protection?

Thank you for that, it is probably the answer I was looking for.

It seems likely that that’s what he was referring to, and that I likely misheard

Didn’t want to risk any odors impregnating the leather, so I just left it to air dry on the counter overnight. Molded the sheath as tightly as I could to give it some structure, but not necessarily happy with the results. Perhaps it is the best I could reasonably hope for with the weight. Think I might just have to fabricate another layer for better rigidity. I know better than to change direction on the fly, but it is what it is… Suppose I should mention that this is a different project than the 12oz sheath I was originally talking about. THAT project I haven’t touched since I cut the stitches…

It was from one of the Tandy guys, so I would think it was at least a real technique. I believe it was in regards to dyeing or forming, rather than tooling, but I also have the short term memory of a springer spaniel chasing squirrels under a disco ball. From my own logic, I don’t think it would have great tooling value unless you were pounding the crap out of it.

Thank you both for the input

No such thing as over-engineering! Also, if you think it would be an issue, use some threadlock.

Agreed

How do the 2 casing techniques stack up to each other? When would oil casing be preferable to water?

Right now, I only have high 60s outside. As far as my initial thoughts, I would maybe start at 140F. From a hypothetical standpoint, I think I could mitigate any grease/oils by wrapping in parchment paper, but I don’t know if any smells/odors would impregnate the leather. Perhaps dusting with baking soda would prevent this…

I have been able to draw the dye back out with acetone (accidental discovery). I doubt that it would pull all of the dye out without staining, but it may be worth experimenting on some scrap. I got kind of a cool ombré effect, but I need to develop my basic techniques before such experimentation.

I like that

As a follow-up, how does the leather weight play into the equation (besides lighter drying faster)?

What would temp would you recommend? I’ll probably be experimenting with my fancy pants air fryer (moving air, temp drops all the way down to 100F)

Somewhat of a random musing on the subject… Does the speed at which the leather dries affect the hardness (or any other characteristic) of leather?

Fred, thank you for that input. I do plan on using the same holes as they are still quite strong. At this point, I’m rethinking the stitches. I was using round lace and a unique stitch that just came natural (no clue what name it might have, perhaps a variation of a lock stitch). This time, I’m either going back to tiger thread/saddle stitch, but I also just had the wild hair of using wire instead, or possibly split rings intertwined through similar to chain mail. Prolly bad ideas… Diesel, I do wet form my sheaths. This particular blade is about 12” (I actually used it as one of my primary knives, back when I used to work the line), and the sheath itself about 15” long, which is why it’s floppy. The mouth of the sheath does have a tight form to the handle. Have to shake it fairly hard for it to fall out. Still learning how to harden leather. The integrity of smaller pieces and lighter weight leather is good, but I have only had mixed/mediocre results on larger pieces. Still have a lot of learning curve left. But thank you for your input. I plan to skive it down some and probably wet form and bake. 1st Rodeo

So I made a sheath with 10-12oz, and a welt the same. It all stitched together beautifully, and is one of my better pieces on the learning curve. But here’s the issue: The welt is thick enough that the blade can rattle freely inside, and there’s most likely enough capability of compression to compromise the stitching. Yes, I should have skived (1 v or 2?) to match the spine of the blade. So question: I just cut the stitching so I can address and redo, but should I skive the welt or the sheath? Or both? TIA, 1st Rodeo

Perhaps I’m wrong, but most hobbyists don’t seem to need to make more than a handful of sheaths. While I don’t by any means specialize in sheaths or scabbards, I tend to stick in that groove. But, my beginner’s luck has started petering out, and I find myself needing to up my game in design/construction (as opposed to patterning/decorating, but I need to up that as well…). So what titles are the gold standards of sheath making, and what are other unicorns that you’ve found? TIA

So now that we’ve covered the phx area, anyone in Tucson interested besides me?

Although it was an interview about music and production, I think it’s relevant in other art forms… (paraphrased) It’s easy to write complex music. It’s unique, different from everyone else. What’s difficult is to write simplistic music. Take rock, blues music. Some of the most iconic music is based off of basic 3-, 4-chord riffs, played with a skill to make them stand out from everyone else… Fantastic job