ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

2 follow-up questions: — After thinning, do I need to wait before using it? — And should I expect any difference in how it works? I added acetone to the cement can, and I *think* I stirred it in well enough, to an even consistency with no liquid pooling. Definitely thinner, though I am on the fence about thinning further. But, as a tester, I glued up a small tab for a box (maybe ½ sq.in. if it matters), and something seemed… different somehow. Wish I had the words to describe it. Thanks again, — AZR

So solvents in general it sounds like. Well, I have acetone on hand, so I’ll give that a shot and see what happens. Worst case, I lose a couple dollars worth of cement. Thanks guys! — AZR

Hey all, Ok, at least it’s not a completely noob question this time… I’m using weldwood as my contact cement, and as I reach the bottom of the can, it seems like it is much more viscous and more difficult to use for small/delicate/detail places. I’m sure that this is from not having stirred the can enough when it was full, but it is the first canned cement I have used (previously used the squeeze tubes of Barge). Learning curve and all… Anyway, is there a way to thin the cement to a more desirable/usable viscosity? TIA for the advice, and may you never burn your bacon! 😉 — AZR

That’s really awesome for the inmates (aside from the program being scrapped…)! While I was living in Washington, a penitentiary in Oregon had a similar program, but textiles. Great jeans and flannel. Pendleton something or other... I have no clue if the pens down here have work/trade programs like that. — AZR

I haven’t seen a bag like that before. Very cool! Maybe Tandy’s mini saddle template could be incorporated? (I have no clue about the size of the finished product) — AZR

Springfield Leather Co has a free template for a mini-saddlebag-type purse. I’ve recently made a couple bags from the template, and personally, I think it’s a cool design. It is reminiscent of motorcycle saddlebags versus horseback, but check it out, maybe it’s up your alley… Hope there’s no copyright issues here, but it is free… — AZR MiniSaddleBag.pdf

As always, you come through with some great insight. And yes, the airbrush is a light-duty cake decorator, but maybe it’ll give her a gift idea. After all, Christmas is coming 😉 I think (hope?) I have finally made my case to spend the extra $15 on the Pro Dye to not stress over the potential for bleed, and to skip the topcoat step and save time. Regardless, I still want to explore the airbrush application method. My initial project resulted in a halfway decent sunburst, so I’m excited to see what I can do with a little experience. — AZR

Will do, and thank you for your input. I did use water to dilute, but maybe there’s enough of a difference between Resolene and Pro Resist to give different results. I haven’t worked with Resolene yet to test/experiment… The wife did give me her airbrush though, so I’ll probably set the Preval down. But I have started to cut the resist with water instead of using full-strength, and I cut my dye to various dilutions with 91% iso alc. I have yet to put it through the airbrush though, so I’ll find out soon if I should or not. General question for the audience though: Has anyone sprayed NFO? And how were your results? — AZR

Note to self: Just don’t. Basically my experience was from attempting to spray a 50% dilution. The resist started gumming up into the “white glue”-type sludge, clogging the nozzle. Another sign of a mistake is the freeze warning on the side of the bottle. And the propellant in the cartridge is well below freezing as it’s released. I was doing my best to use short bursts to prevent the nozzle from freezing over, but who knows how successful that was. At least I’m only down a cartridge and some time, though what did spray seemed to lay down surprisingly even. Perhaps an airbrush is still a possibility for application, but definitely not with the Preval system. (It did work wonderfully for my dye though!) Learn from my experience so you don’t have to make the same mistake 😉 And may you never burn your bacon… — AZR

So I’m wanting to use a Preval unit, but I’m mixing my dye and don’t want to mix more than I need. Is there a “minimum” amount needed in the bottle for the sprayer to work properly? TIA, AZR

As a follow-up, I guess, is there any change in technique when using both oil- and water-based dyes? Wow I really feel like a noob again after finally getting some NFO from Tandy (they couldn’t get any from the warehouse for MONTHS!)… — AZR

Ok, simple question (maybe)… Does water- vs oil-based dye affect how you use NFO? Is the typical oil/water separation even a concern? Ive been watching some videos from the University of YouTube, and I’ve noticed that they’re all using Fiebings Pro, and not water-based (I prefer the Pro dye myself, but I happen to have a water-based dye for this project), and I don’t want to ruin a piece by lifting or smearing the dye. TIA, AZR

Aaaaaand I feel even more inadequate…

It’s a handbag, 3-4oz econo veg tan, probably closer to the 4oz end. I was hoping to attempt oiling/conditioning to soften it and make it a bit more pliable (I know I would have only limited results, but I was going to try anyway), but because I made the mistake of using a water-based dye, I had to seal the bag with Pro Resist (it’s what I have on my shelf), which leads to the conundrum of how to best treat the leather. — AZR

My thought was that it would help keep the veg tan a little more pliable. (I have NFO and saddle soap though) Usually I stiffen leather, and use 6-8oz instead of 3-4oz, so this is just the opposite end of the spectrum for me to learn. — AZR

Vinegaroon made my leather super-stiff (almost unworkable) and gray also. I gave it a coat of mineral oil, because hey, worst case it’s still learning curve, but the oil caused the black to return, and softened it enough that I could use it. For period-correct, maybe NFO or olive oil? — AZR

If the flesh side isn’t sealed, can it be oiled/conditioned from there? — AZR

Having any issues with the interior? In the process of assembling a purse myself, but I made the dummy move of using water-based dye. I sealed the exterior with Pro Resist, but now I’m paranoid about bleed/stain on the inside (let’s say it got wet or something…). Before I stitch the panels together, is there anything I should do to seal the inside, or do I even need to worry about it? — AZR

Dwight, since you seem to know what you’re doing, I made the dummy move of using Fiebing’s regular dye instead of the pro dye for a purse, and I’m paranoid about rub off because of my mistake. Aside from a final coat of Pro Resist, is there something I can do to avoid the rub off? Also, because I went to the extra step of dying the interior/flesh side, what can I do to seal it? (Primarily concerned if it got wet…) — AZR

Thank you, Fred. Now that I realize that I didn’t even ask my initial question, will NFO penetrate Pro Resist? And follow-up, does saddle soap still clean/condition in spite of the resist? TIA, — AZR

Okay so this thread is so far dead that it’s fossilized, but I’m gonna dig it up again and hope for more insight… So I am actively in the step of finishing the panels for a purse, so I’ll give the process I just used. Full disclosure: just as my handle suggests, I don’t necessarily know what I’m doing aside from following tips from others… 1) I clean/wash the panels with warm water and Dawn dish soap, and rinse well. The intended purpose is to draw out the oils to the surface and wash off. 2) Once dry to touch, I gave a relatively light coat of NFO to replace the oils I removed, and let it sit overnight to even out in the fibers. 3) Cased the leather with water and let sit overnight. 4) Scribed in my stitch lines and pricked out (not punched) where the stitches would lie. 5) “re-cased” the panels with a spray bottle of water until the absorption slowed, and let sit for a few minutes until it looked kinda dry and was cool to touch, and tooled the panels. Sprayed again as needed, but only minimal. Once finished, I let it sit overnight. 6) Dye process. I’ll leave the method I used out because it was experimental for a sunburst effect (not what happened). But, after dying, I buff off the excess dye sitting on the surface, and let sit overnight to fully absorb and even out. 7) Gave it a light coat of Fiebing’s Pro Resist, mixed about 50/50 with water, and quickly wiped off (just to seal surface, not depressions). 😎 Applied a heavy coat of Fiebing’s antique paste (I use my finger so I can really work it down into the depressions), lightly buffing the excess off when I was done. 9) Let dry for half an hour or so, and buffed on my wheel to a nice sheen. This brings us up to now. The edges of one panel don’t feel quite dry enough for my liking, so I’m killing time with dishes, giving my pup some loving, and writing this post. Once I’m happy with the edges feeling dry, I’m going to give another coat maybe 2 of the 50/50 Pro Resist, buff out, and finally punch my stitch line to assemble, burnish the edges with gum trag and/or spit, and finish. Once again, I don’t really know what I’m doing, it just seems to work for me. Still feels like my first rodeo, — AZR

Thank you for that tidbit Dwight. I’ll give that a shot on the next piece that I do here. Like the craft/peach paper that I wrap my brisket with? — AZR

Fred, I wish I could agree. Perhaps tackiness is the wrong descriptor, but it’s like pulling your finger across acrylic resin, just resists movement. I applied only a light coat to both pieces yesterday morning. 24ish-hour dry time with good air circulation before I posted, currently sitting at 30ish hours. I even hit them on the buffing wheel earlier to no effect. Im not too proud to deny the possibility of user error, but I have no clue what’s going on. —AZR

Hey all, I guess first, is there a top coat with a low-friction finish? Or, is there a way to reduce the tackiness of a finish such as Pro Resist? Backstory: I’m making a business card holder, and I used the wrong dye. To prevent rub off on hands/clothes/cards, I had to use the Pro Resist to seal (only topcoat on my shelf…). But, it has that acrylic tack/friction that I foresee preventing the cards from sliding in/out, and sticking to them if I manage to get the cards in. So I’m looking for a way to reduce the tackiness for this project, but also looking for a solution for future projects. Any and all help greatly appreciated! Maybe it’s my second rodeo now… — AZR

Ok, so this may seem like somewhat of a moronic question, but I’m still learning how to use NFO… Should I be oiling before or after casing/tooling? Will casing just push the oil to the surface? Maybe it still is my first rodeo… — AZR