ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

My current/recent projects that I’ve considered have been: dog collar, a couple sheaths, and a dangler. I’m attempting to make them as environment-resistant as I can, as the pieces will be subject to a fair bit of use and abuse. -AZR

Dwight and Dikman, I actually found a set of drill press punches at harbor freight. The first thing I noticed was that you have to have the drill running, which bothers me for some reason, but as it punches, the friction does burnish the hole at the same time. Jury is out on if I prefer drill bits or the punches… For my work surface, I actually have a scrap of 10oz that I cased and hardened, and put another piece (not cased) on top of it, and that it what I put my working piece on. So far, the punches/bits haven’t gone through and hit my table (yet). I also use it when I’m stamping. Dwight, you mentioned putting a needle in the press… are you using glover’s needles? My diamond-point needle doesn’t seem to be long enough to fit in the chuck and still have enough travel to punch through. And Dikman, of everything that I have, I don’t actually have any awl bits. Are you referring to the little interchangeable ones? Thank you for your input guys, I’ll play around. -AZR WHAT is THAT?!?! Whatever it is, I want one!

Ok supposedly there are no stupid questions, so let’s test the theory… I’ll take for granted that you aren’t supposed to use gum trag on suede. Why? What happens? If I’m burnishing the flesh side anyway, wouldn’t it help? In the meantime, I’ll be using edge paint and hope for the best. Still feels like my first rodeo, AZR

Chuck, thank you for the advice. I’ll definitely be giving those techniques a try. Al, I’ve noticed the same with the chisels. Makes me wonder though where I’m going wrong with my drill press…

Okay, so I know this is a basic technique, but I seem to have regressed back down the learning curve. Or I just had early luck. (Working with basic foldover knife sheaths), I cant seem to get the holes for my stitch lines to match up on either side. To be clear, I have successfully made several in the past, which is why I’m even more frustrated. I’ve made templates from multiple kinds of paper and from EVA foam, and I’ve tried directly on the leather as well (sometimes I get brave). I’ve used edge-guided groovers, rotary spacers (the little wheel that pricks the leather as it rolls), wing dividers, punching the welt and using it as a template, overlapping the prongs of my punches, and even my drill press, and I’m still failing. I’ve tried punching them flat, punching them folded, even punching with the welt glued in place. It really does feel like my first rodeo again. Please help. Thanks, AZR

Wow that is a beautiful and well-considered holster! Love the hockey game idea! Anyone know if a kendo stick would work?

You have given me the idea of caning it with some rebar or a mesquite branch, and if I had access to the leather to try it, I totally would just in the name of research. My biggest hesitance at the moment is that I don’t have any scrap big enough to test. I’d go for an econo belly from Tandy, but they’ve been out for about 3wks now

I guess I should mention that, outside of the rivets, there is no decoration or ornamentation for the breastplate, just the patina and wear.

So it’s for cosplay, not LARP. (The difference I’m not sure. Maybe watching, not playing?) But, who wants to show up in brand new armor without a single knick on it? Which begs the question: how do I mimic battle damage/wear without swinging an actual weapon at it? I had been using my test swatch for the dye to try different methods of abuse, but the marks left even the spine of my heaviest cleaver just look like I got into a fight with a box cutter. All help appreciated

Dusting off a long-dead thread, but yeah, those look incredibly well done! I salute you, sir!

Do these offer any wrist support, or are they just forearm protection?

Thank you for that, it is probably the answer I was looking for.

It seems likely that that’s what he was referring to, and that I likely misheard

Didn’t want to risk any odors impregnating the leather, so I just left it to air dry on the counter overnight. Molded the sheath as tightly as I could to give it some structure, but not necessarily happy with the results. Perhaps it is the best I could reasonably hope for with the weight. Think I might just have to fabricate another layer for better rigidity. I know better than to change direction on the fly, but it is what it is… Suppose I should mention that this is a different project than the 12oz sheath I was originally talking about. THAT project I haven’t touched since I cut the stitches…

It was from one of the Tandy guys, so I would think it was at least a real technique. I believe it was in regards to dyeing or forming, rather than tooling, but I also have the short term memory of a springer spaniel chasing squirrels under a disco ball. From my own logic, I don’t think it would have great tooling value unless you were pounding the crap out of it.

Thank you both for the input

No such thing as over-engineering! Also, if you think it would be an issue, use some threadlock.

Agreed

How do the 2 casing techniques stack up to each other? When would oil casing be preferable to water?

Right now, I only have high 60s outside. As far as my initial thoughts, I would maybe start at 140F. From a hypothetical standpoint, I think I could mitigate any grease/oils by wrapping in parchment paper, but I don’t know if any smells/odors would impregnate the leather. Perhaps dusting with baking soda would prevent this…

I have been able to draw the dye back out with acetone (accidental discovery). I doubt that it would pull all of the dye out without staining, but it may be worth experimenting on some scrap. I got kind of a cool ombré effect, but I need to develop my basic techniques before such experimentation.

I like that

As a follow-up, how does the leather weight play into the equation (besides lighter drying faster)?

What would temp would you recommend? I’ll probably be experimenting with my fancy pants air fryer (moving air, temp drops all the way down to 100F)

Somewhat of a random musing on the subject… Does the speed at which the leather dries affect the hardness (or any other characteristic) of leather?