Tigweldor

I would second that. If your bobbin holder tension spring was set up for say 69 thread and as a whim of notion you now decide to run 138 thread - bobbin tension will all of a sudden be way to tight. You should always try out your stitch setting on a piece of scrap leather with exact material and thickness that your project is - before sewing your end-product. Doing that will save you a lot a hassle in the long run. Using different colour thread as Hildebrand suggested, is a very good way to diagnose/tune settings. As you get more experienced - you can check bobbin thread tension by just pulling on the bobbin thread by hand. Now there is no way to describe it properly - it is a "feel" that comes with prolonged use of your machine. In the industry they do use thread tension scales - I bought a pair once years ago, but have never used them - one of those "gizzmos" that you do not really need for single needle sewing machines. On twin or more needle machines this is a different story, as you want all threads with exact equal tension. Greetings Hans

Now that is an interesting philosophy - as most people upgrade their shop wiring to 3-phase sooner or later and never look back to regret it. Nice thing about 3-phase wiring - you can also run single phase motors on that - you just use/hook up one phase and omit the other two. The wiring does not care - neither does the motor. Greetings Hans

They are actually compound machines - triple transport if you will. I think they are up for auction - so end price is not fixed. But even over here, their country of manufacture - you can expect to pay 300€ and rapidly up for a good working Adler 67 - for the 167 a little more, due it being of newer date.

Jup - I sure do. Bought another unique treadle a while back - cut out the "feet" to use as foot boards on my Shovelhead´s PM foreward controls - they have nice castings for solid screw mount - where the treadle axle used to go through. Powder coated in either black or grey - they should look real nice. Different than the over the counter stuff, anyway. I like one of a kind type solutions - that is the main purpose/goal of customizing. Pic of the shovel engine is with SU carb on rare 90° foreward facing manifold

Jup - you got that one right. Some of my 3-phase clutch motors weigh (almost) as much as the sewing machine that it powers. And if I do go way below 20Hz - they do get very warm. I have tested them with an infra red thermometer - at the speeds that I run them at, they do not exceed 60° to 65°C. And that is a temp, that most all industrial motors can cope with.

In my up to date experience, most industrial (sewing) machines use 3-phase motors and single phase motors are usually found on the "home" models for private citizens. Simply because in the industry, 3-phase wiring is standard procedure to power motor driven implements - not so in every home or apartment/condo or garage workshop. Also a 3-phase motor is more efficient in converting electrical into mechanical energy - due to the construction of its´ magnetic fields. You can regulate the speed of most single phase motors with a potentiometer (dimmer switch) - but current not needed/used will be transformed into heat. This is why most speed controls have a max. wattage rating that they can handle - the same goes for a VFD - you buy one built for max. 1,5kW and try to run a 4kW motor on that - it will not last long due to overload and overheating. Plus you have to take into consideration : starting current is most often manyfold of the actual current needed , once running rpm has been reached. The nice thing about a VFD though is, that it can convert single phase house hold current into 3-phase current needed to run any 3-phase motor. With the added benefit of being able to control output frequency = motor speed and the ability to severely cut down on run on time after the motor is shut of = motor brake. On some VFDs you can also increase starting current to give it a boost to 125% or 150% of current needed - a "starting ramp" so to speak. I will say it again - they are a pretty bullet proof apparatus once set up and as you can tell by the dates on my pics - I have been using them for years with success, even long before the pics were taken. And I am talking real hands-on experience - not some theoretical mumbo-jumbo why they can´t and will not work on a three phase clutch motor. As to the motor overheating - in the industry, motor speed is controlled with VFDs - they would not use such units if it meant that the motor would burn out in short time. They do such calculations with a very sharp pencil. Another benefit : as more and more people are switching to servo motors - the availability of used 3-phase clutch motors in good condition has increased - while at the same time prices for them have dropped. Since I use them, I see that as a win-win situation (for me at least). Greetings Hans

Hand wheel can be of any manufacture - just has to have a 9/16" or 14mm bore and it will fit onto the drive shaft stub. Internal foot pressure spring came with the 29K51 / 29K56 series. Arm length came stock in around 12 and 17 inches and they made a narrow arm that takes the 16mm diameter bobbin - a wider arm that takes the 20mm diameter bobbin. Best clue would be a pic of the pinion wheels that drive the hook. Sure like the way they transformed the Singer logo in the treadle frame to Senior - someone sure took all measures to hide the original manufacturer. Could date to the time after the Korean war (1953), when western participation was not liked by many Koreans - could even be that this is a North Korean clone of a 29K - a guy just does not get much info on what they produce over there.

Here is which measurement you need when looking for a belt : Pitch -- Belt height (B) -- Tooth depth (T) shown on this page : https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/documents/Timing Belt Tooth Profiles and Pitches.pdf Greetings Hans

looks like a Singer 29K to me with a very short and stout arm. Does it have the internal foot pressure spring in the head or the steel bar spring on the back of the machine ?

The Adler 67 is the predecessor of the Adler 167. Both models are pretty well bullet proof built machines - definitely good to learn on. Just oil them for all you are worth when you first get them - they will thank you for it by running smooth.

Found it in the local "Craigs list" - had to drive 63 klicks each way yesterday in late afternoon to get it though. Made by Armaturenwerke Kaiserslautern (AK in the logo) in the 40s or 50s and was used on the brakes of a coil winding machine to spool copper wire. Material is cast aluminum - the patina will be left just as it is now. Told the seller that I intend to use it on a machine that unwinds its´"coils" . I like incorporating these old "gimmicks" into my sewing machines - they look unique. Greetings Hans

yes - in the beginning I was also weary of overheating the motors cause they run at reduced rpm = reduced cooling. But : the older 3 phase motors have massive copper windings - they can stand the heat. When I run my Adler 5 for about 2 hours of sewing (between 22 and 28 Hz) - the motor gets warm - but not so hot that you can not lay your hand upon it. Now had I bought 6 servo motors for my sewing machines - I´ld have been out around 1000 bucks of hard earned cash - a VFD plus board plus socket plus wall plug and cable comes to less than a 100 bucks. You figure out the math on that one.

If you've already got a 3-phase motor and VFD then obviously your costs will be minimal but you will need to source/fabricate a foot pedal with a built-in rheostat to control the VFD. --------------------------------------------------------------- Wrong. The VFD just lowers the overall rpm of a motor by reducing the Hz factor in the current that the motor receives - which in the US straight from a wall outlet is 60Hz (cycles per second), in the EU it is 50 Hz. You lower that frequency to 30 Hz - you will have reduced motor speed to half of its´original value. No special rheostat needed - all stays stock - you just plug your machine into the VFD outlet and control it with the settings made within the VFD. I currently own 6 sewing machines - all with 3-phase clutch motors and VFD controlled. 2 Adlers (4 and 5), 2 Pfaffs (138), one Dürkopp (239) and an Adler 30-7 - which does not have a clutch motor, but a gear reduction motor

Well, who ever gives an answer, can get the link to this compound walking foot machine (Singer 211 ?) for small coin for free : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365577547428?

While the Adler 205-64 is a bottom and needle feed machine -- the 167-373 are true compound machines with a walking foot. I would prefer either one of the 167 for sewing leather over the 205-64. As for which one of the 167 is in better shape - a guy would have to take a close up comparison on both machines and then come to a conclusion. Keep in mind that added extras that come with a machine are sometimes worth a lot - especially if they suit your exact intended application. Just my opinion though Greetings Hans

Hey, right on. Now with my research European commercial timing belts stop at around 14mm pitch, then take a big hike up to 20mm pitch -with pretty well zilch size in between. But ya gotta think outside the box. There are US outfitters of custom timing belts for compressors and what have you not in the car industry. Try give them a shout : here is a link -- https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/timing-belt-tooth-profiles-and-pitches Should they have proper profile but too wide a belt - it can be cut with a strap cutter at no real pain Should they not have what exact size you are searching for - they may connect you to a source that does. Greetings Hans

Yea - it is rare - some trophy" from over 45 years of "wrenching" and buying tools. The other shiny 1/4 inch drive "butt plug" is from KS Tools an can fit a 10mm box end hex (better : ratchet) wrench - should you want to enforce more leverage onto the bit holder that it is plugged into.

I live in Germany. National companies like Kobold, Quick, Efka have always delivered top quality. The older the mechanism - the more "German" it was in design - and with as little as possible plastic in the whole concept. And a lot more "service friendly" than many new "let´s produce cheap" construction concepts. I can not speak for (newer) clones of them, stemming from far east of Asia.

The clutch motors usually all have conical bell type clutch plates and the clutch lining is very similar to brake lining. Often after woken up from decade long slumber, oil and grease have hardened, rust has formed - action is inferior - service is needed. A well tuned and properly set up mechanical clutch system is a pleasure to operate - at least on my motors they are - and that is no witch-craft. As to skivers - many people think that by having activated the sharpening wheel and sparks have quit flying - the bell knife is now sharp. Well only half way home - you still have to eliminate the burr from the inside of the bell knife. You omit that step - results will be poor. Cussing will get loud. Manufacturers and engineers blamed. All cause of the burr.

Naaaah - the only prob is, that you have to sit down and read/learn how to set the parameters within the different programs and sub-programs of your particular VFD. And they are all a tad different - but lots of info an the internet. You just gotta go through all that data entry step by step for the first time or to change/readjust settings to your likings - but all in all they are "bullet proof"

As shown in the vid. Lots of penetrating oil - I would moderately heat the knob with a heat gun - moderately, it is bakelite - then insert a tight fitting screw driver into the slot in the shaft just wiggle the shaft in tiny motions back and forth while at same time pulling on the knob. For the screw driver you may have to pillage an old kitchen knife and "massage" it to wanted shape with angle or bench grinder - the slot in the shaft is quite narrow but wide. Greetings Hans

I would advise you to just add a VFD to reduce motor rpm. I built a portable unit (s) - you can then use it on different machines. If you build one - you might as well build two - very little more effort needed. Sell the better looking one - the one left over cost nigh none. hope that helps you out, Hans Who actually prefers the superior ability to feather a mechanical clutch system manually via pedal over the electronic version and runs all of his 3-phase clutch motors over such device(s) as shown in the pics. It´s sort of like driving a truck with a manual or automatic tranny - on the automatic you cant really feather the clutch. Anyway, this is definitely one of the most fruitful DIY projects you can make for yourself - trust me. I actually consider it as a TOOL to manipulate the motor to perform the way I need it for my exact application. You will never ever want to miss it again. You can program in a stop mode - so your motor comes to a complete stop within x amount of secs when you press the stop button or by switch - it transforms the old clutch motors into a whole different beast.

Another thing - I like reversing the push - pull action on my pedals. Instead of straining my ankle muscles to reproduce the action same as pressing down a gas pedal in a car --- I prefer a heel rest and then push down with my toes and the ball of my feet on the front edge of the pedal. You just have to reroute some cables and fix-points. I find this method much less tiring and I also get better action feathering the clutch - remember : I run clutch motors in combo with a VFD On the foot lift an my Adler 4 and 5 - if is definitely easier to use mentioned method - just step down on the front of the pedal instead of having to "boot it" (like in a car). This is a pure matter of choice/preference - but I would personally never go back.

One more tip that I can give any Pfaff owner - buy yourself a GOOD 1/4 inch drive metric socket set. With the better ones, each bit has its´own socket - the screw driver bits are sharp and short - the most important thing. When removing needle plate screws - I want a real shorty - 1/4 inch bit with a stub handle - that´s all you need on a sewing machine. Hand tight is enough for most screws. I tapped the 2 on the bed for the edge guide to M4 and used short allenheads - beats the stock knurled "hour glass" style screws Another tip - to keep the table uncluttered - buy some magnets. On the 138, get rid of the stock spool holders - get a decent thread stand - and put a big magnet on the flat metal lid - it´ll stay there all by itself. Bobbins, scissors and other tools stay put on magnets and you know exactly where they are - should you need them. That goes for every sewing machine. Nother advantage - your screwdriver is always fully magnetized when you take it from the magnet - on some small screws that is downright handy. Greetings Hans

Here is a review of the 138-6/21BS - some good info. https://www.ashleyandthenoisemakers.com/blog/2015/3/7/pfaff-138-review-1 Greetings Hans Who has both colour machines - and loves them for any fabric and vinyls and tarps -- just not the most favorite for leather - I prefer a compound or walking foot for that.