Tigweldor

Oh - for sure. The seller wants 2600 Euros for it. Pick up place is Germany - crating and international shipping is not witch craft I can arrange contact - but will not post such data on an open forum. You will have to do that via PM Just thought the pics would be interesting - you don´t see such machines on a daily basis. Greetings Hans

A Singer 11-24 ZigZag 80cm reach. Very rare. Is for sale, if interested. Everything works - but would also be a real eye catcher in a storefront window - on a proper pedestal.

Usually when the old Pfaffs have a "hard spot" - it is from old oil having solidified in/on the intended oiling surfaces. The best thing to do is to get some kerosine (grill starter) and apply that to all of the oiling points and then run the machine - while applying more and more grill starter. A can of carb cleaner with the long skinny plastic tube that you can inserted into the spray nozzle is my favorite. The aim is to dissolve old caked on oil deposits - some can be quite resistant to dissolving/removal. After a while the machine will most often smoothen out - then apply good white sewing machine oil. Here is the instruction book for the Pfaff 145 : https://www.bedienungsanleitu.ng/pfaff/145/anleitung?p=5

well, here is the adjustment manual for the 205 copy pg. 17 to 27 and page 68 - unless you are fluent in German, French and Spanish as well. https://www.bedienungsanleitu.ng/duerkopp-adler/205/anleitung?p=67 Although it is for a 205-370 :: apply all procedures as needed to your machine. When you get your machine - go through the steps one by one as needed and just check out your machine - before putting it into operation. That won´t even cost you an hour - time well invested to avoid grievances right from the start or down the road. This is what I also tell most people when they get a new machine : RTFM Here another tip : if you want to thoroughly know the contents of any manual - keep a copy of it in the bathroom - every time you have a "sitting" - you can relax and read another chapter - I can guarantee success within 3 months. Greetings Hans

Top tension is to high. Look at the first pic - you can see the bottom thread pulled right through the fabric onto the top side. - thus producing the "curly Q" Either back off your top tension or increase bobbin tension. This is going to take some time by trial and error - you just have to fiddle until both of the threads knot in the middle of the fabric. But that is a normal common procedure - that most all of us are confronted with when changing thread size or switching to a different material to be sewn. Greetings Hans

Came from an Adler 167-8063 but with very minor mods will fit most any sewing machine. Solid brass pneumatic cylinder and brass swivel mounting foot bracket mirror quality. Stock 6 pole socket not needed - as in reality only 2 wires get through to the magnetic valve. It uses a 24 Volt DC valve - but I have had it in operation with only 12 Volt DC - it works fine. Ran it on 3bar, which is around 40psi. Meanwhile sold the 8063 - which could make 10mm long stitches and was left at that length - its´ only real highlight. It was the twin needle version with 2 complete hook drive mechanisms - came from VW from their car seat manufacture in Kassel. Had fitted it with a VFD though. Asking 200€ plus shipping for the foot lift.

The hose clamps to secure pedal position on their shaft look pretty chinsy. I´ld replace them with the same kind of collars that are at each end of the shaft. Is the small pedal for foot lift or for reverse ? I still have a pneumatic foot lift for an Adler 167 that will fit the 205 with very minor mods - if you want. Provides instant and effortless foot lift to the max - in a split second. Greetings Hans

And one more thing to remember with every skiver: DO NOT start it with the sharpening stone mechanism engaged. Let the motor and bellknife achieve proper rpm before engaging the sharpening stone drive. Always check. it does not cost anything. But that is the way it is supposed to be done. Greetings Hans

Lets put it this way plain, if you want to do yourself a favour that you won´t regret : If you want to sew multiple layers of webbing - especially Nylon or some other slippery material - a compound sewing machine is so much more efficient - in my eyes a definite must have. Makes work so much more enjoyable, less frustrating as well - that is worth more than gold. A good cylinder arm with a clamp on table - maybe even a little and a big table - you got 2 machines in one - saves space and cash. Most all cylinder / open arm sewing machines have always come with some type of latch or tapped screw hole for affixing the table on the pulley side of the arm and different kinds of bottom table support on the needle end side - is nobody reinventing the wheel on that idea - most likely been around for as long as open arm sewing machines have been in existence. Hans

The Singer 45K usually does not have reverse and is only good to about 1/2 inch material thickness - 15mm would be stretching it´s limit. It is also not a walking foot machine - real slippery material is not what that machine is made for - not saying it can´t be done though. The Wimsew is a compound sewing machine - as you have mentioned - it also has reverse and comes with a modern motor - get the 1000Watt motor. Spare parts and different feet are available for small coin. I would call it a cheap clone of the Adler 205 - not as well made though. But as always : you only get what you pay for. Can you get a Wimsew 8B for 800quid ? That would be my choice for day in and day out use in a business - even though I like older machines. Just my opinion Hans

If you guys could give me belt width, tooth size and tooth spacing - I can research. Had to do same for aftermarket primary drive belt on my various Shovelheads - the pricing on original merchandise for a Primo primary belt drive system here in Europe will make your eyes water and yelp for a chair along with some sniffing salt Aftermarket units (without the fancy print on them) came to less than 1/2 price. As far as I can tell from other postings on this here forum, the belt has 62 teeth. Greetings Hans

Yup - you are right on the procedure. Lever counter clockwise is to loosen - clockwise is to tighten. Here is a manual for free : https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461564/Adler-67.html?page=5#manual ( go to page 5 - best thing just to print out page 4 , 5 and 12 and put them each in a plastic paper sleeve) Open the lid on the top and keep oiling - keep oiling - keep oiling. If it is really stuck - start with some kerosine or I like to use carb cleaner from a spray can with a little plastic tube on the nozzle (usually comes with the spray can) Here is a vid if you want to adjust stitch length to be absolutely equal in forward and reverse - although he is showing it on a 167 - on the 67 it is the same : If you scroll through the Youtube vids list under "Adler67" Uwe (Grosse) has some good ones on hook timing and others.

The prefix according to the original thread poster is UY (actually it is VY) = double lettered and not just U = single lettered It is pretty easy to mistake a "U" for a "V" - I can´t see him imagining an additional second letter to the serial number prefix though.

Have you played with the little screw to compensate for material thickness ? The one on the inside on the front of the swingarm ? This is a trial and error setting - you have to play around until it works. Greetings Hans

Here is a vid of the shaft assembly and of the different hardness stones that are available (read first comment) : If you click on the uploaders name - he has other videos as well on skiver maintenance and adjusting

Here a vid - watch from about 17:30 on --- looks like your stone is just stuck on the shaft - just pry it off. Ask uploader where he got his replacement from. Greetings Hans

Here another vid - from Mivel - he makes many about restoring old leather/sewing machines - no gabbering as well - just pics and some tunes - like on all of his vids. Seems to be your exact model - where the screw to bring the sharpening stone closer to the bell knife is on the back side of the machine (1916).

Hope that helps you out. Contact the uploader for parts list and maybe even a manual - he is from Finland - sent you a PM Greetings (skal) Hans

well, I´m glad it worked out for you. Get a "utility model protection" on that (your mods) for China and have them manufacture the needles in your chosen length- you can make some coin from/for your tinkering

While browsing around the internet, I found another good site on Singer 29 serial numbers: https://sewalot.com/dating_singer_sewing_machine_by_serial_number.htm Now if you scroll down to just about the bottom of the page, you will find double lettered serial number prefixes. While there is no UY - there definitely is a VY prefix - indicating/suggesting date of manufacture to the year of 1957 and having been built in Penrith / NSW (New South Wales) Australia. With your own location being Tasmania - I think that info hits the nail pretty square on the noggin´. Hope that helps your curiosity - even though it comes a little late. Cheers mate, Hans

Is that why you wanted to know the size of 328LR needles - thought about using them in your patcher at an earlier time ? Greetings Hans

Most blades are affixed to their drive shaft with a nut that has 2 holes in its`side. You can make an improvised tool for loosening/tightening such a nut from a proper sized washer a 2 small nuts and bolts, then welding the washer onto a handle. Sure beats working on the nut with a punch and a hammer. If the nut is at the very end of the shaft of your cutter - a piece of flat bar with two bolts and nuts at proper spacing will suffice. Here is a pic of that same principle - it is a tool to keep the dive shaft yoke of a rear differential from turning when removed from the car/truck, but you have to tighten the yoke nut to specs - due to a crush sleeve - with a torque wrench.

You could also just run a proper sized bolt through the blade´s mounting hole, secure the blade with a nut and then insert the bolt into the chuck of a (cordless)drill. If you then secure the drill in a vice or clamp it to your workbench with a clamp -- you have an improvised "lathe" that makes short time of intended sharpening. In Germany we have a saying : " in an emergency, the devil will eat flies"

@AlZilla ---- thanks for shortening the over long Ebay link --- I usually do not like to post such links as the seller may delete the product and then the link is useless. Same are my thoughts on uploading pics from a third party photo storage site - I have been on many a forum on other sites that only show a 404 when you click on a link/pic because the poster has deleted membership or his pics from that third party site. Greetings Hans

https://www.manua.ls/pfaff/545/manual If your clutch slips too easy - adjust spring pressure - shown in the video by Uwe - he makes many very good vids on sewing machines and is also a member of this here web site. hope that it helps you out. Greetings Hans