Tigweldor

Are these brass burnishers any good - I do have a big Pferd Mammut flexible shaft grinder where I can set speed over gear box up to 12 000 rpm. Anybody ever use these with success ? https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004360400374.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.41.5823PFncPFncGj&algo_pvid=a81055c6-63c5-488e-b2fd-95775b1e9a79&algo_exp_id=a81055c6-63c5-488e-b2fd-95775b1e9a79-20&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"18"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!3.37!0.99!!!3.55!1.05!%40211b80c217431654469137732ea442!12000028901065385!sea!DE!0!ABX&curPageLogUid=WDyAAavtk6WV&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A Greetings Hans

Hi, Still have a few motors kicking around the shop - want to make a motorized burnisher out of one of them. What is the best wood to use for the burnishing wheel ? Guess it is something like oak or harder - wood is not really my specialty - so any tips will be appreciated. Have a bud with a wood lathe - but I want to approach him with at least the wood in hand - he likes to moan and groan a lot if has to dip into his own stash - want to avoid that. Greetings Hans

Hi Bob, Thanks for the tip - I will definitely use it / do it that way. Got lots of 40 x 40 x 5 (= around 1,5 x 1,5 x 3/16 in inches) angle iron in the shop. Greetings Hans

only the parts manual : https://usermanual.wiki/ace-eastman-pdf/pfaff195595.348266863

I myself can only use one sewing machine at the time - so I see it as a very minor problem to unplug one socket and plug in another when switching to a different machine. After all - I´m a hobbyist and don´t have to run a commercial set up with multiple machines being run simultaneously. But yes, it is nicer to have a VFD for every machine - on the other hand, I have additional hobbies as well - coin sunk into one hobby will directly affect how much I can spend on my other projects. That is the way I look at it - some times you have to improvise and be frugal. Latter does not mean being cheap - it does however mean to consider/plan how available coin is spread most cost effective. And the chance of industrial tear downs with a booty of one or two "free" VFDs does not come along every day - my crystal ball is kind of cloudy right now as to when it will happen again. So I´m back to Craigs list in the meanwhile. Greetings Hans

Here is a manual for free download with all steps needed explained : https://www.manualslib.com/products/singer-111w155-352881.html Greetings Hans

Yup - it sure is. This is a picture of the defective but crudely repaired part. If I were to live 20 klicks south of Timbuktu where no spare parts are available, I might have tried to weld up the missing piece inside the ring and then try to grind it smooth. BUT : time is also money - so why bother, when I was in the position to buy a complete "parts machine" for 20€ - with a singer treadle table to boot for that small price ? Not only that - I wanted to point out that the Singer 29K51 head fits 1:1 as replacement for the Adler30-7 head - the only difference being that the foot pressure spring on the Adler is external on the back of the machine (spring bar) where as the 29K51 has a coil spring right inside the head to accomplish same thing. I thought to have pointed out all of this in the answers before - but then again, English is not my mother tongue so it may not have come across clearly. The part in the pic has meanwhile landed in my scrap metal bucket, as I have no further use for it - with not a single tear lost over that act.

eliminate shaft end play : second to last pic - middle of the pic - right hand side - you see 2 discs with a spring in the middle of them. Push shaft to the right (by the cam lobe) - loosen the screw on the left larger disc - slide it to the left - leave minimal play (a c... hair) - tighten screw. Cam lobe sits : middle of the pic - left side - under the feed fork with the screw on top. If you want, take the feed fork out to have better access to the cam - the fork has a felt pad in the top - clean off the dirt - apply new oil - put back into place - tighten screw. Play should be gone and your belt will sit better on the sprocket as well. Do NOT use cheap 3in1 household oil from the dollar store - get yourself some good sewing machine oil - I use paraffin oil (white oil as they call it here in Germany) - over here I pay about 12€/quart on Ebay.de I do believe that they produce it synthetically nowadays - but I have no experience with such stuff - I stay with what has worked for me for years. This stuff - you must be able to get it in the US as well : https://www.ebay.de/itm/155226421782?_skw=weisöl&itmmeta=01JQBB78FZKFM95D92KQ5W1PNS&hash=item2424373a16:g:t4QAAOSwGh1jWigW&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cYZzLgHsQq%2Bf9Br%2Fj4WGV4H0ZEoQ0qrd6pyremEW7Np5rOMYIK1SrrJ7qXIqis1VoFI0YzXacq4cRjKa6uULIhb4AoeWI8le5C9HgjurEXbdRlAmt%2BScr0QmrfwOmZLRUYzWdnvGZ1wcVN4%2BhGcvuJTg4%2FmkFfpNvYsWcitN5a9W9HF9qaj5Yi1I4xuphUGlwzL27M6VUuU3CxUmtL8Hu22PrSgjl4UypvNe0SxB%2F5EA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR76Jneu6ZQ If you get yourself a plastic lab bottle with a long pointy tip - you can refill that for a very long time and beat any price any commercial seller will charge you for the same stuff - and don´t be fooled by any of their fancy names or added colour. Greetings Hans

It is most likely chrome tanned leather - so no dye is gonna penetrate good/stick long lasting. You wear blue Jeans - you´ll have a black ass after every ride till the colour is back to grey, cause of that fact - however, that could start a new trend and earn you a new nick name as well - you know your bros better than I do. I´ld put it back on Ebay (edit : or Craigs list) and buy a black seat once you sell it. Or sew a black leather cover for it. I guess that didn´t help you much - but that is my honest opinion. Greetings Hans

Like I said - scroll to the very end of the topic (edit: on page 2 that is) and you will find a date of March 2025 and pics of both Singers that Drummer wants to buy. They look as if they have been painted with some kind flat black paint though - no shine in the paint what so ever.

Well, my 328 LR 140 as well as my LR 160 needles have different dimensions than your specs. The shank - where the needle is fitted into the needle bar - has a diameter of 2,5mm After 20mm the needle has a shoulder, coming to a thinner diameter of 1,6mm (160) and 1,4mm (140) at the shaft with the groove until it tapers off at the tip. The distance from the top of the needle to beginning of the eye is 51,6mm Overall length is very close to 59,8mm - here I didn´t really press down to hard on my analog vernier calipers - didn´t want to dull the tip of a brand new needle. I use the 328 needles on both my Adler 5-8 and Adler 4-4 and these 2 packs are the thinnest/smallest ones that I have - don´t use the 140s much though Maybe the other classifications on the packages will help you out further Greetings Hans Here are some other machines that use this needle : Singer 45K class, 132K6. Juki LG-158-1. Consew SK-6. Adler 104, 105, 205.

Can you get a close-up of the Pfaff brass serial number plate ? Then you can get exact specs about the machine. Spare parts - if needed - are definitely less expensive and more readily available for the Singer - especially in the US.

https://industry.guetermann.com/en/products/mara/ - they also make it as Mara flex

Found the pics at the end of this thread : guess I´ld start with 400$US for the pair - if you really need both of them.

Well - only 2 less bottles - you could afford to fill up with better Whisk(e)y then The engine shown is a 350 small block bored out - but it cracked into the water jacket on one of the cylinders. Used to hot rod V-8s for drag racing (bracket) on a small budget in the early 90s, when I got back from the States/Canada.

You got that one right. A real simple recipe is : mix a cartridge of silicone with about a gallon of white gasoline in a tub (that smells less than pump gas) - drop your canvas in the fluid and knead it thoroughly so all parts get covered/are wet - hang up to drip dry over the tub. The smell is completely gone after a few days. I have used this on my old army ponchos and Parkas with success - on latter take out the zip-in lining first. The result is extremely water repellent - and does not develop that rancid smell of old waxed canvas - like my old Belstaff MC jackets do - I was forced to keep them in the garage by my girlfriend cause of the smell. If you make a slightly thicker mixture of silicone and gasoline - you can paste it over seams with a brush to waterproof them - works 100% - take my word for it. I use that on the seams of my leather chaps - on the inside of the chaps, that is.

I once bought one of these cheap VFDs from Chinesistan (that was years ago) - but as I mentioned before - they do not come with a built-in thermostat so the cooling fan runs all the time. The one in mine was almost louder than the sewing machine at full speed - so I sent it back el pronto. It does remind you to turn off power to the VFD at the end of work though. Maybe they have fixed that "fault" in the meantime.

You can get cost effective leather aprons at Ebay under "welding apron". They have real chinsey/cheap straps though - I usually convert the neck strap into an X-pattern so it fits over both shoulders and replace the hip belt also. For the replacement straps I use old seat belts (very comfortable) - you can get those at your local scrap yard - usually just for a donation to the coffee jar fund and all the tools you need to salvage them is a sharp pair of scissors/knife. I know that this route is not totally "all home made" - but it only costs around $30US for the whole project. A little more if you want to add good buckles and snaps - seat belts are usually 50mm wide = 2 inches.

Why don´t you buy local - and visit the tannery while you´re at it ? https://euroleathers.com/tanneries/boaventura/ these guys are wholesalers https://www.bioleather.pt/en/wholesale/ this town is the main hub for leatherwork in Portugal : Alcanena Greetings Hans

Got an old blown up V-8 sitting in your back yard ? Turn it into a house bar. I welded bars into the bottom of the cylinder bores, turned down the pistons as bottom plugs over the welded in bars. Timing chain, engine and cam sprockets are nickle plated. The head plates are made from half inch aluminum plate and polished - then fastened with dome headed Allen head screws. You cam use an old head gasket for the bolt pattern and a jig saw to cut the holes - I had mine done by a bud with a machine shop - for some welding in return. The glass plate is made from 10mm crystal glass - get the mounting holes drilled where you buy the glass. The engine sits on the crank and can be turned 360°. The engine block, crank and flywheel are powder coated black - make sure you have the block hot tanked thoroughly before that - else you will have bubbles in your powder coating - that happend to me, so back to sandblasting and start from scratch. I call this "up-cycling" Greetings Hans

Got an old defect V-8 sitting in your back yard ? Or some old rods under your workbench ? Well, here is a simple project. Make a toilet paper roll holder out of them - I keep one standing on my work table for general clean up work. Makes a good gift to a V-8 lover as well - if you want, get the rods powder coated in the colour of your choice. For the round bar I use old Japanese motorcycle front axles cut down or any other round stock available. I call this "up-cycling" Greetings Hans

Every so often I work tearing down industrial plants - then usually behind an oxy-acetylene cutting torch. But : my buds are electricians and so I get my VFDs for a few beer after work - can´t beat the price and I have yet to receive a defect unit from them.

The length difference of 134 and 135-17 is around 5mm. I would definitely check if the needle bar on your machine has not already been adjusted to 134 needles - cause the stitches do look good in the pics.

Here is what Schmetz says - and they are a needle manufacturer : System 134R is generally used in single needle lockstitch industrial sewing machines. It is also known as 135x5, 135x7, 135x25, 1901, DPx5, and DPx7. The R after the 134 stands for Rundspitze = round point = for farbrics The L suffix stands for Leder = leather LR = Leder rechts = leather right side slot LL = Leder Linkes = leather left side slot.

Here are some pics on what really impedes cooling - found in a sewing machine motor of a Pfaff 463 that came from a tailor (bought and repaired it for a lady friend of mine) I find such a thing a potential fire hazzard as well - especially around electrical contacts.