Tigweldor
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Posts posted by Tigweldor
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No - I bought the "naked" Adler for 55€ in Wuppertal - + 200 klicks of driving. The seller, knowing that there was a broken part and not having told about it in the ad, had either hid in the house or had fled - his mother was there with the machine in the driveway - needless - I would have bought it even with the broken part.
I found out about the fault at home - so I needed a fix for that.
Exactly cause of that, I bought the 29K-51 with pretty close to 200 klicks of driving the next weekend in Meschede for 20€ - but this time the sewing machine came with a treadle table - but with a broken casting lip on the foot take up lever.
This was a chance buy - but it worked out - parts from both machines were a 100% match - could have been completely different.
I could have then sat there with two useless duds on my hands and little to show for cash and time and effort.
But if you don´t take a chance once in a while - life will be dull.
So all in all I spent 75€ plus 400 klicks in my car (Kangoo = around 10l/100km at 1,7€/liter = around 70€ gasoline) - i don´t regret one single hour or one single Cent.
This is not counting my time, as I wanted a patcher that could handle the bigger bobbins.
Every old sewing machine i get - I FLOOD with oil.
On these old patchers I take the sewing head off right away - that means removing 1 pin at the swingarm and 4 screws at the head.
Then I take the head apart.
You force an old machine to turn while stuck/frozen - that usually means that something is going to break - that will cost you more coin - completely unnecessary - like a young spud on his first date with no patience. (grin)
I´m nigh on 63 years old by now - I have learned what patience is - used to be the exact opposite when I was young - take my word for it - I did force a lot of "things" that "broke" while doing so - and regret a many of them. That is the main thing bad about hard core biker life style - but even after having turned into a realist, I do not like to be taken for a "softy".
Greetings
Hans
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Looks like that poor Singer has seen a very damp shed for numerous years - not that this is not "fixable" - but it sure will be a lot of work - for a non compound flat table sewing machine - again one of those "Liebhaber"-projects with a wage under 3€/h when/if you ever sell it.
Greetings
Hans
who has fallen into the same "trap" numerous times - loved every moment of it until it became time to sell the unit
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If you stitch through a sanding belt - your needle wouldn´t last very long at all - might even rip the thread - should be clear if you use your head.
So glue is the way to go - maybe use double sided tape to quicken things up - it comes as wide as your belt and doesn´t cost an arm and a leg.
Also, you would have to have your leather dyed aforehand - the polishing compound is mostly made from some sort of tallow/wax - you would not achieve proper dye penetration where the compound goes over the edge of the leather due to the soft felt wrapping around the edge - it would clog the pores of the leather and be very hard to remove once there.
Now canvas would be a different matter - it is harder and has little to no "hair" that will not wrap around the edge of the leather.
Just my opinion after watching the video.
But this is what a forum is for - you gotta input your brain storms and get feedback that you didn´t think of yourself.
I like such procedure.
Greetings
Hans
Who has had many a thought dismissed/cancelled by valid arguments of others - most of them who had more experience on a topic than I did.
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I guess, that hardness is not all that important - unless it comes to different kinds of wood.
Glass is harder than steel - else you couldn´t clean your Ceran stove top with steel wool and methyl alcohol without leaving a single scratch.
On the other hand, I haven´t seen any glass burnishing wheels being available commercially - some people in this here forum suggest spark plugs - the corpus of them is ceramic - I don´t know if that is harder than glass - gotta check into that.
Since I don´t like to fart around but rather get right into it - I have ordered one of these brass burnishers from Chinesistan - as well as some hand burnishers made from some dark indescript Asian hardwood - didn´t cost much - I will use/try these in my flexible shaft grinder.
I ordered a round chunk of maple as well - let my bud do some work in return for all the welding I´ve done for him free of charge. They do say that one hand is to wash another - so far he seems to be a "no armed bandit" in that game (grin)
Any method sure beats having to burnish the edges of a belt by hand with a canvas rag with the old "jerk off motion" - not at the price I am charging for my merchandise.
As the Chinese have stashes for their merchandise all over Europe, I expect quick delivery - the one thing a body sure as heck can not do, is knock their prices.
And I will say one thing that is sure as horse dung : if they completely close shop and play a hard game in this trade tariff war - the rest of the world is f....ed.
You wouldn ´t be able to buy a single ball bearing or a seal - all has been outsourced mainly to Chinesistan and the few remaining US Timken plants would have to deliver to the army and not to civilians any more. Just take a look at say Timken bearings for your Harley swingarm - on the package it says - made in the USA - on the bearing it says made in China or made in India - and they both are part of the BRIC (= Brazil, Russia, India, China)
But : since talking politics on a forum is generally bad news - so I´ll quit right now and hope we all get along peacefully.
Greetings
Hans
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Well, answered my own question at home - says it right on the Motor : 1/2 inch - couldn´t see that on my phone display - the monitor of my home computer has better image / more pixels.
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Hi Dwight,
Great - thanks for the tip.
Maple grows here in Europe - thought i had to get some fancy exotic wood - been researching and found sandlewood used -- don´t think that it grows around my neighborhood though.
Beeswax and canvas is no probs either - have lots of bees wax as I make my own leather balm / polish - haven´t bought any commercial stuff for nigh on 25 years now - easy stuff to melt together on any stove and a metal pot.
Been reading other posts and they suggest that they run their burnisher at half speed, which would be pretty close to 3000 rpm - but they didn´t state the burnishing wheel diameter - need that to calculate surface speed in meter per second. I like the slightly more scientific approach to such matters - makes me feel more confident - which is probably complete "placebo thinking" - but that´s the way i tick.
@ toxo : I will try the belt sander method as well - know of a small manufacturer of sanding belts just out of town - I´ll give them a call and ask if they can´t sell me some belt material before grinding particles are added to the belting - the diagonal cuts at the right length and applying the tape I can manage myself. I´ll just cut an old sanding belt along its´seem as a template. Maybe even make the whole belt from canvas and ZZ stitch it together. The old Pfaff 138 can produce a pretty wide ZZ.
Greetings
Hans
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leather belts online have a variety of metal tips - but nothing plain and nothing in my wanted price range.
https://leatherbeltsonline.com/?s=belt+tips&post_type=product
on etsy there are a few good ones to boot - but all in the end consumer price range
the buckleguy used to have some lovely pointed ones made from plain brass - but not listed any more on their web site - maybe give them a call where they got them from. You can polish them real easy and get them nickle plated - wouldn´t cost much if you polish and afterwards hang them on the wires for plating yourself. That´s where the cost for plating goes up big time - not in the process itself.
Found some here in Germany - will order some - price will go way down if you order quantity :
https://www.lederstrumpf-shop.de/de/Guertelspitzen-9B_12823/A2.html
Greetings
Hans
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Hi,
What shaft size are these Harbour Freight sanding drums made for ?
Thanks in advance
Hans
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Are these brass burnishers any good - I do have a big Pferd Mammut flexible shaft grinder where I can set speed over gear box up to 12 000 rpm.
Anybody ever use these with success ?
Greetings
Hans
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Hi,
Still have a few motors kicking around the shop - want to make a motorized burnisher out of one of them.
What is the best wood to use for the burnishing wheel ?
Guess it is something like oak or harder - wood is not really my specialty - so any tips will be appreciated.
Have a bud with a wood lathe - but I want to approach him with at least the wood in hand - he likes to moan and groan a lot if has to dip into his own stash - want to avoid that.
Greetings
Hans
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for the tip - I will definitely use it / do it that way.
Got lots of 40 x 40 x 5 (= around 1,5 x 1,5 x 3/16 in inches) angle iron in the shop.
Greetings
Hans
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only the parts manual : https://usermanual.wiki/ace-eastman-pdf/pfaff195595.348266863
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I myself can only use one sewing machine at the time - so I see it as a very minor problem to unplug one socket and plug in another when switching to a different machine.
After all - I´m a hobbyist and don´t have to run a commercial set up with multiple machines being run simultaneously.
But yes, it is nicer to have a VFD for every machine - on the other hand, I have additional hobbies as well - coin sunk into one hobby will directly affect how much I can spend on my other projects.
That is the way I look at it - some times you have to improvise and be frugal. Latter does not mean being cheap - it does however mean to consider/plan how available coin is spread most cost effective.
And the chance of industrial tear downs with a booty of one or two "free" VFDs does not come along every day - my crystal ball is kind of cloudy right now as to when it will happen again. So I´m back to Craigs list in the meanwhile.
Greetings
Hans
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Here is a manual for free download with all steps needed explained : https://www.manualslib.com/products/singer-111w155-352881.html
Greetings
Hans
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Yup - it sure is.
This is a picture of the defective but crudely repaired part.
If I were to live 20 klicks south of Timbuktu where no spare parts are available, I might have tried to weld up the missing piece inside the ring and then try to grind it smooth.
BUT : time is also money - so why bother, when I was in the position to buy a complete "parts machine" for 20€ - with a singer treadle table to boot for that small price ?
Not only that - I wanted to point out that the Singer 29K51 head fits 1:1 as replacement for the Adler30-7 head - the only difference being that the foot pressure spring on the Adler is external on the back of the machine (spring bar) where as the 29K51 has a coil spring right inside the head to accomplish same thing.
I thought to have pointed out all of this in the answers before - but then again, English is not my mother tongue so it may not have come across clearly.
The part in the pic has meanwhile landed in my scrap metal bucket, as I have no further use for it - with not a single tear lost over that act.
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eliminate shaft end play :
second to last pic - middle of the pic - right hand side - you see 2 discs with a spring in the middle of them.
Push shaft to the right (by the cam lobe) - loosen the screw on the left larger disc - slide it to the left - leave minimal play (a c... hair) - tighten screw.
Cam lobe sits : middle of the pic - left side - under the feed fork with the screw on top.
If you want, take the feed fork out to have better access to the cam - the fork has a felt pad in the top - clean off the dirt - apply new oil - put back into place - tighten screw.
Play should be gone and your belt will sit better on the sprocket as well.
Do NOT use cheap 3in1 household oil from the dollar store - get yourself some good sewing machine oil - I use paraffin oil (white oil as they call it here in Germany) - over here I pay about 12€/quart on Ebay.de
I do believe that they produce it synthetically nowadays - but I have no experience with such stuff - I stay with what has worked for me for years.
This stuff - you must be able to get it in the US as well : https://www.ebay.de/itm/155226421782?_skw=weisöl&itmmeta=01JQBB78FZKFM95D92KQ5W1PNS&hash=item2424373a16:g:t4QAAOSwGh1jWigW&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cYZzLgHsQq%2Bf9Br%2Fj4WGV4H0ZEoQ0qrd6pyremEW7Np5rOMYIK1SrrJ7qXIqis1VoFI0YzXacq4cRjKa6uULIhb4AoeWI8le5C9HgjurEXbdRlAmt%2BScr0QmrfwOmZLRUYzWdnvGZ1wcVN4%2BhGcvuJTg4%2FmkFfpNvYsWcitN5a9W9HF9qaj5Yi1I4xuphUGlwzL27M6VUuU3CxUmtL8Hu22PrSgjl4UypvNe0SxB%2F5EA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR76Jneu6ZQ
If you get yourself a plastic lab bottle with a long pointy tip - you can refill that for a very long time and beat any price any commercial seller will charge you for the same stuff - and don´t be fooled by any of their fancy names or added colour.
Greetings
Hans
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It is most likely chrome tanned leather - so no dye is gonna penetrate good/stick long lasting.
You wear blue Jeans - you´ll have a black ass after every ride till the colour is back to grey, cause of that fact - however, that could start a new trend and earn you a new nick name as well - you know your bros better than I do.
I´ld put it back on Ebay (edit : or Craigs list) and buy a black seat once you sell it.
Or sew a black leather cover for it.
I guess that didn´t help you much - but that is my honest opinion.
Greetings
Hans
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Like I said - scroll to the very end of the topic (edit: on page 2 that is) and you will find a date of March 2025 and pics of both Singers that Drummer wants to buy.
They look as if they have been painted with some kind flat black paint though - no shine in the paint what so ever.
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Well, my 328 LR 140 as well as my LR 160 needles have different dimensions than your specs.
The shank - where the needle is fitted into the needle bar - has a diameter of 2,5mm
After 20mm the needle has a shoulder, coming to a thinner diameter of 1,6mm (160) and 1,4mm (140) at the shaft with the groove until it tapers off at the tip.
The distance from the top of the needle to beginning of the eye is 51,6mm
Overall length is very close to 59,8mm - here I didn´t really press down to hard on my analog vernier calipers - didn´t want to dull the tip of a brand new needle.
I use the 328 needles on both my Adler 5-8 and Adler 4-4 and these 2 packs are the thinnest/smallest ones that I have - don´t use the 140s much though
Maybe the other classifications on the packages will help you out further
Greetings
Hans
Here are some other machines that use this needle :
Singer 45K class, 132K6.
Juki LG-158-1.
Consew SK-6.
Adler 104, 105, 205.
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Can you get a close-up of the Pfaff brass serial number plate ?
Then you can get exact specs about the machine.
Spare parts - if needed - are definitely less expensive and more readily available for the Singer - especially in the US.
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https://industry.guetermann.com/en/products/mara/ - they also make it as Mara flex
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Found the pics at the end of this thread : guess I´ld start with 400$US for the pair - if you really need both of them.
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Well - only 2 less bottles - you could afford to fill up with better Whisk(e)y then
The engine shown is a 350 small block bored out - but it cracked into the water jacket on one of the cylinders.
Used to hot rod V-8s for drag racing (bracket) on a small budget in the early 90s, when I got back from the States/Canada.
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You got that one right.
A real simple recipe is : mix a cartridge of silicone with about a gallon of white gasoline in a tub (that smells less than pump gas) - drop your canvas in the fluid and knead it thoroughly so all parts get covered/are wet - hang up to drip dry over the tub.
The smell is completely gone after a few days.
I have used this on my old army ponchos and Parkas with success - on latter take out the zip-in lining first.
The result is extremely water repellent - and does not develop that rancid smell of old waxed canvas - like my old Belstaff MC jackets do - I was forced to keep them in the garage by my girlfriend cause of the smell.
If you make a slightly thicker mixture of silicone and gasoline - you can paste it over seams with a brush to waterproof them - works 100% - take my word for it.
I use that on the seams of my leather chaps - on the inside of the chaps, that is.
Adler 30-7
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted · Edited by Tigweldor
Here is what the Singer 29K33 looks when mounted on the way to short treadle table of a Singer 29K51.
I did follow CowboyBob´s suggestion and used angle iron - sure moves the working end of the 29K33 far to the left - but heck, for 20 Euros the table came with the "spare parts 29K51" - so I guess this is better than a kick in the butt - once in a while a guy has to improvise/accept less than optimal results until I find a right size treadle table on my journeys.
Still waiting for a leather drive belt.
Angle iron is 40 x 40 x 5 - spacing is 268mm for the leg holes and 158mm apart.
Used counter sunk screws for the other/middle 2 bolts to secure the angle iron to the table - they sort of self tighten/hold the head when tightening the nuts from underneath - can´t get a wrench in between angle iron and machine to hold them otherwise, once the machine sits on the table.
I also had a spare set of shopping cart wheels lying around - so I also used some angle iron under the feet, cause the wheel trestles had to be secured with M10 bolts - would have left the little 100+year old cast iron foot-pads weakened. Spacing of the holes middle of foot to middle of foot is 440 mm.
Secured the angle iron to the foot pads with M6 Allen bolts and self locking nuts.
Do round off all the edges of cut to length angle iron - especially in/around the foot region - sharp 90 degree corners can leave nasty cuts on legs/ankles and this chore does not take much time.
Since shopping cart wheels do not have a brake - I will install thumb screws on the sides of the 2 front trestles to keep wheels from turning when machine is in place.
One thing I can sure state : the machine moves way better with the larger wheels than with the small "furniture casters" that I have installed on my other machines - and all of my sewing machines are mounted on wheels - saves having to lift them around when you have to move them - and below sewing machines it seems to magically attract dust and all sorts of fluff - easy to move them for cleaning the floor.
Also made another a bracket to mount thread cones to the machine - the stock spool holder is to small for the cone foot and places it to close to the swing arm - very sub optimal.
The Adler 30-7 is now mounted onto my custom table with the gear motor and VFD.
Foot mounting holes are absolutely identical on the 29K33 and Adler 30-7