JRodz

A little while back I posted a question soliciting help on identifying my sewing machine. On the same post I asked for advice on setting it up for leather. I got some great feedback. Following through with that feedback, I paid a visit to Steve and his mechanic Tony and his other mechanic Tony. I left there with some great tips, installation instructions, smooth presser feet, needles, a servo motor, and a speed reducer. Got home made some lay out lines on the table, cut, drilled, and everything came together perfectly. I spent all weekend sewing anything and everything I could get my hands on. Whiz was pretty dead on, it sews 5/16 like nothing (I was able to run up two layers of 8/9 plus one layer of 6/7 under it, if I helped it feed flat). Stiches were straight, tension was even, stiches, and the backstitches were beautiful using a 22 diamond point needle and 138 thread. Anyway, just wanted to say thank you to all of you who helped me get her up and running quickly and easily. Without you I would have had to figure this all out by trial and error. Thanks again, Jose

I would try reversing the beveling or undercutting the outermouth to get that effect. I would cut a few lines or just the mouth area on a piece of scrap and try it.

I agree with the comments posted above and I think the suggestion that interested parties send a pm is a great idea. I personally would have done it that way. Other post I have participated in for graphic design and screen printing had such rules and prices were never posted. As far as pricing goes, we all have our own formulas and consumers know that, the value of any product will always be a balance of what the client is willing too pay and you are willing to take. I personally do not discount my work to compete for a sale, I know what I put into a piece and what I need to make from it. I also know what materials, tools, and equipment cost me and what that means to my pricing.That being said, I have learned a lot and really enjoy the forums. Everyone is always very open and welcoming and that is just proof of the integrity of the members. In many industries, good luck getting help, feedback, and tips from others because people horde their knowledge and experience.Keep up the good work, supportive commens, and keep the neighborhood safe and clean.Cheers,Jose

Sweet work, can't ever have too many skulls or flames.

Thanks Gregg, I new there had to be more to this story since it never matched any pictures of any Singer 111W??? I had ever seen.

Thanks Bruce, I'll give them a call.

Thanks Wiz, I got it from a friend who used it for awnings. I got it for $200 and picked it up directly from the shop where it was serviced, the invoice for the service was $75, so I guess I really only paid $125 for it. All the gears look new with no wear and everything is tight and smooth with no slack or slop. When I spoke to the technician, he said he could probably get me about $450 to $500 for it so I was pretty sure I got a good deal on it. He hooked me up with 4 packs of needles and 20 bobbins too. I will get a hold of Raphael on the servo motor, but being Southern California the freight may be a bit much. I will probably try Cobra Steve, Artisan, or any others recommended on this forum that are close by. Thanks again for the info.

I need help identifying this machine. I was told it was a Singer 11W155, but the pictures I have seen of 11W series do not have the lever in the front. All parts are stamped with "Symanco USA" so I don't think it is a knock off. Any help would be appreciated. Also, this probably needs to be a seperate post but I would like to hear some imput on whether a speed reducer and servo motor would work well with this machine to get it to where I can use it on small projects. Right now it's got more pick up than my old Chevy truck and it has a built 350. Too difficult to use with the clutch motor since I am not experienced in sewing.

Nice work, i like the font and the tooling around the lettering really brings it out.

I have achievd similar finishes by balling up a piece of old t-shirt, blotting the dye on randomly or not so randomly, and rubbing it in a little more in some places than others. When I ball up the cloth I flatten the part that touches the leather against my workbench, which essentially mimics what Luke describes above but with a little variation in the dying. If you were doing sheridan, floral, etc. Then you may not want variation and should definitely stick to the flat surface of a block. Hope that helps.

I've never done a seat, but I have done a few molded cases and sheaths and I always carved first then molded. The leather would be to hard to carve after wet molding and pressing. It may not be necessary to say, but you may need to adjust your design to work with the contour of the seat after molding. I've seen some really cool molded stuff from some of the people who post here and hope they chime in with more help. Good luck.

I have not tried shipping tape but I do use painter's tape or masking tape in two layers, one going the length and the other the width. May be overkill, but it works for me and controls the stretch effectively. Don't be afraid to experiment, it's how most of us have settled on our process along with using what is readily available and affordable. Best of luck.

I do not own an SK3, but i use BK and Ole Smoothies and they are both great knives. I have heard a lot of good things about SK3, I used one at a friends shop and very impressed by how it felt and cut.

Thanks Steven,that is good info to know, I have both types of gauges that were left to me with my father's leatherworking tools and equipment. I use the one with the arms because the other one was always off by 1 to 2 oz. Now I know why, he was a saddle, tack, and boot maker in Texas before coming out to California. On a seperate note, keep up the Friday specials, and I hope the new place is working out. Take care

If you are like me you have pieces of leather in various weight in your stacks or rolled up on the rack. Lately, I have found myself wondering what some of these are in terms of weight. Now, I am not a stickler for knowing exactly what weight a piece of leather is and I usually just take a piece I like that will work for the project I am working on and go with it. But for those times I just have to know, I have created this little chart for myself and my caliper is usually within arms distance so now I can determine what I'm working with pretty easily. If this helps, feel free to use it, if this is useless trivia don't use it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. May the passing year take with it any challenges it brought and the New Year bring with it health and fortune for all. Leather Thickness.pdf

It might be sublimation, which is used for garment like bicycle jersey and other higher end clothing and materials. It is a process where the ink is printed onto transfer paper and then pressed onto the material. When the ink heats to a certain temperature, it turn to a gas and penetrates into the material making it permanent. Usually the material is white or light because there is no white sublimation ink available. Also the leather would have to be coated before to add a bonding agent and after to make UV proof and add a finish. Here is another thread from this forum with lots more info and discussion. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19274

For folders and multi-tools I use 6/7, but for fixed blades I use 7/8 or 8/9 depending on the length. For 10 inch plus or on request I have used as heavy as 9/10.

I myself am still trying to figure out this business and the best practices, but I wrap the items in packaging paper and stuff the box with the same or newspaper. So far no complaints and have not had anything returned. By the way, I also wrap items when storing them to protect from damage, moisture, etc.

I'm new to this but I'll +1 to what Twin Oaks said, and add that you need to practice keeping the tension consistent so you are not making one stitch tighter than the other.

I read this thread today and it has some great insight and answers. I usually lurk around the forums but this is only the second time I post. That being said, the information and help I have gained from this site has been such that I have become a contributing member. I felt the least I could do is give back a little. I learned a long time ago while working construction for my uncle's company that you never discount your labor, you are worth it.. aren't you? Consequently, I have started and sold several profitable businesses over the years where I was never the cheapest, the most expensive, or the flashiest but I was the one that stood behind everything that I have done. I was called back to fix a loose tile after 8 years, I did so with urgency and a smile. I started leatherwork as a hobby and was quickly pushed into business because friends had needs and needed someone they culd trust to do it for them. I ride about 40,000 miles a year and ride with some of the largest motorcycle clubs in the western states. I appreciate the comments about a niche market and the value of custom products to the consumer. Unfortunately, I cannot post pictures of most of my work. I have not been granted permission from any of these clubs to post or photograph their products because it contains trademarked slogans, logos, and symbols that are sacred to the clubs. I work full time and am always backed up a 2-3 months, even still I do not make enough to live off. I am also in a fairy tale scenario because I deal with the clubs leaders who in turn sell the goods to the members for fixed prices so I do not need to haggle or wheel and deal. These clubs pay cash up front and pick things up in person or I deliver to them personally. What's my point, find a niche where you have credibility and where you participate actively and fully. Even then, it is hard to make a living of leather alone.

Hello everyone, I have been reading posts and checking the work you all have posted for a little while now. I thought I'd post to introduce myself. I am an avid rider and like all things to do with bikes and leather. I used to help my father who was very good at leathercraft and belt buckles focusing on western, rockabilly, and biker genres when I was a teen. He passed about 4 years ago and I have recently picked it back up again after 25 years. I look forward to reading your posts, seeing pictures of your work, and picking up some tips here and there. Happy holidays to all, J Rodz