JRodz

Hello everyone, I have read all of the patcher posts I could find on here but still have some questions. I am hoping the group could educate me on a few things about these machines. I recently purchased one and am picking it up tomorrow so I am trying to do as much "homework" as possible. (Wiz, I printed out your threading instructions and will keep handy right next to or in the manual.) I guess my first question is, why do so many people dislike them? Seriously though, these are the questions that I have: How heavy can these machine handle? How much 69 and 92 can these "small" bobbins hold? Can this machine be used to sew small goods like wallets, checkbook covers, journal covers, etc.? What do I absolutely need to know before I sew on this machine? Maybe it will help if I let you know what I am hoping to do with this machine: Sew embroidered and tooled leather patches onto jackets and vests Sew patches onto wallet backs Sew borders around inlays Add decorative stitching to projects Sew gussets and wallet guts Cigar tubes and round/tubular small bags Thank you in advance the collective knowledge of this group is awesome. Have a great weekend and Happy Father's Day to all you Fathers.

Ask and you shall receive. 25e2d344475ea8e4d51d968c89f500f9.pdf

One of my other interests is cooking, I thought I would post a picture of a knife I recently acquired. The knife is made in France by Deglon, they are stainless steel and are for mincing.

I get mine for $5 a pound from Bennett's Honey Farm. It is premium grade an super clean. The market to candle makers who make honeycomb candles out of it so it has to be really clean. They are located in Piru, CA. and can be found on the Internet.

I don't think I've ever seen blanks like that offered anywhere. About a few months back, I had a large order of belts and I bought some sides of HO Saddle Skirting and Bridle from Weaver and had them cut into straps of 1" to 2." I used the left over and scraps for collars, leads, and belt keepers. It's a bit more for their cutting service but it was worth it in the time saving of cutting and edging.

Have you looked at Ohio Travel? Here's a link, hope it helps. http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/otb/P212Catalog.jsp?pagegraphic=Page061.jpg&x=76&y=55

I whole heartedly agree, not just here on the forum but in everywhere else too. My martial arts master once said to me, "it is okay not to be impressed by others so long as you are not only impressed by yourself." In my daily work, I deal with vendors bashing each other constantly and that usually ends my consideration of their offerings. I believe in respect, integrity, and choose to take my business where those values are a part of that company's DNA. Tandy and some others primarily serve retail just like Weaver & W&C serve wholesale or trade only for the most part and they all have their place and their niche. When tradesmen deal with retail they should keep in mind who they are dealing with and the same goes for hobbyist dealing with wholesale or trade only. For tradesmen, tax certificates, business licenses, credit lines, minimum orders, etc are not gonna be an issue. For hobbyist paying retail, they want the best they can afford but not necessarily what the tradesman requires. Just my .02 Jose

MIke,That is one beautiful holster. Your post is well taken, years ago I did masonry for a trade and people would complain that the diference between thair work and the journeymen was the tools. Being the smart ass I was, I would trade tools with them just to prove them wrong. Thanks again,Jose

Thanks Spinner, I am in Oxnard, next to Pt. Mugu.

Thanks to both of you for the info, I seem to be on the right track. I have had two Paasche VLS airbrushes for years and pulled them out last night. I have set one up with the 3 set up and the other with the 5 set up. I am using around 25 psi (fiebings dye) to about 40 psi (resolene). I hope to practice enough to start using them regularly. Thanks again for the direction.

I was wondering if those of you who airbrushed dye, stain, and top coats would share your techniques and set up? I am curios what size needle, nozzle, and what psi you are using. I think it probably changes between liquids so examples would be great. Also, if you are thinning, with what and at what ratio? Thanks a million. Jose

Hey all, as I was melting down bees wax last night and molding into the shapes. I thought I should share my source, it may help you and will help a local family owned business. The business is Bennetts Honey Farm in Fillmore, CA. (actually closer to Piru) and they sell 100% clean bees wax for $5.00/lb. For the record, I do not have any interest in this business other than being a customer. I don't know the family personally, and other than taking full advantage of the great price for the wax don't have anything to gain by referring you to them. Here is their info: Bennett's Honey Farm 3177 E. Telegraph Road Fillmore, CA. 93015 www.bennetthoney.com

Steve,I think it depends on your market and the area you live in. Of the 20 or so belts I've made over the last year, the smallest was a 36 and the biggest was a 46. The most popular sizes were 38, 40, and 42. That being said my market is the biker community with some military and construction sales mixed in. Just my .02. I also usually only cut what I need so I don't end up with too many long or short straps (learned that by experiencing it) but it does require more storage/rack space to keep your rolls of leather.

Jet, Glad that helped, on the leather selection I would use 3/4 oz veg tan o the outside and 1.5/2 oz tooling kip on the inside. That will give you a sturdy wallet for sure.

I recommend you contact some of the sponsors with banners on this site. If they can't help you, here are a few suppliers near me that you can check out online, or beter yet give them a call. http://www.pacifichide.com/ http://www.unitedleather.com/ http://savmorleather.com/

If you have heavy duty card stock or pressboard folders, that is a good material to make a mock up out of and when you're down you have your pattern. Because of the durability of the material you can lay out your stich and pocket lines and erase if necessary. Heck, you can even sew on it to see what your spacing and thread size will look like. I do this because I still haven't found a leather eraser, so doing it on paper first saves me from ruining leather and feeding my scrap box. I know some use regular paper, tracing paper, etc. but those won't leave you with a durable pattern for future use. BTW, for me, I seem to spend a lot of time on design and layout the first time I make an original item, so once I have a good pattern, I make notes on it and file it away for future use. Hope this helps and good luck, like some of the pros on this forum say, just keep trying new things, be creative, and keep it enjoyable.

Joker, That is a sweet BFMC piece. I used to ride with BFMC 101 and still see the various CA chapters at events. I will keep an eye out for it the next time I attend one of their gigs.

PM sent, please add me to the list.

I don't think this kind of prank is very funny, and in my hometown neither do the police. http://www.vcstar.com/news/2010/nov/05/teen-student-arrested-for-high-school-explosions/

I use either heavy duty pressboard folders or xray films for my patterns. Mostly because I have access to an ongoing supply of both at no cost. There are some limitations due to size. The biggest film are about 36"x36" which works for me but may not work for others.

Rob, I personally do not ride in leather chaps, I prefer overpants or overalls. However, among those I ride with there are two split camps on this. The largest camp prefers heavy 1.2 mm (approx. 3 oz ) or greater naked leather with a light lining (polyester, duck cloth, twill, ripstop fabric, etc.) and don't mind the break in period. The other camp likes the medium weight glove tanned garment leather with a light lining because it is soft and flexible and feels good right off. Then there are other chaps that are lined and insulated, but those I don't see used very often (mostly because around here it is never that cold). If or when I buy a set of leather chaps, my preference will be the heavy (1.5 mm to 2.0 mm) naked leather variety. Hope this helps from the rider perspective.

Thanks again Wiz, for now I will have to make due with my Boss and the Singer. But maybe later down the road, a Cobra 4 or something comparable may be necessary.