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BigRiverLeather

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Posts posted by BigRiverLeather

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I gave up trying to find a reliable source other than Rings. I can either order from XYZ, let them place the order from the same place, takes them 2-3 weeks or more and I saved $5 or $6. I'll gladly pay that much for fast, freindly, knowledgeable service, which I've ALWAYS received from John and the others.

    That said, If there is something I need, my first stop is eBay. I've picked up a few reasonable deals there.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    That's a very nice looking rig. Those Bobergs are a different animal and make for some unique holsters.

    I'm the same way - if I had the extra jing laying around I'd like to have one of those. Maybe after I own every Sig made.

    I got the chance to meet Arnie Boberg and tour his facility in the St. Paul area. It was surprisingly small. Arnie is a super nice guy and super smart with a lot of imagination and ambition.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Good Job on that.

    As others have said, higher quality leather like Hermann Oak and Wickett and Craig will have much nicer backs. However, that probably doesn't help you if you have a big shoulder or side of leather, probably from Tandy or similar. I'll tell you what works for me is to put the flesh side of the leather to a sanding drum. I have one in my drill press and I use it all the time for many other things as well so if you don't have one yet, get one. I use a 4" drum and keep a smaller on (2") handy but for anything else I'll use my dremel with a sander bit. Just be sure to give it a good brush to knock off any bits that may have come off of the sander. A rough grit like a 60 or 80 works well. I've not tried it but hitting it with a higher grit afterwards may smooth it out even more.

    Regarding the little piece on the backside of your holster that was pointed out with a question mark - Whether intentional or not, that actually provides a little support to keep the mouth open. I bring mine up like that to, in fact I often cover the trigger guard depending on the gun. More importantly, at least to me, is I run the leather all the way around the sweat shield. It helps keep it rigid in one of the areas that can tend to get loose and floppy, even with guns in them.

    BNP%20K%20Frame%20Brn%20Cognac%20Ostrich

    IMG_1053_zps8xeeyh16.jpg

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Try altering the travel of your check spring, which is mounted on the lower disk set. Note the current position, then raise it an 8th of an inch and test. If no happy happy, lower it an 8th below the starting point. If no happy happy, return it to zero.

    See if the needle is being pulled to the outside on the take-up stroke. If so, move the hook closer to the needle by a gazillionth of an inch. Try again.

    If nothing you alter improves the problem, assume bad thread and try a different spool.

    Thanks for the reply. These two items are Greek to me though. I looked through the 3000 manual and saw no mention of them in the maintenance section or the parts section. So, I'm not really sure where to start with that.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I'm sewing with a Schmetz 180 needle, 277/207, 2-3 layers of up to 8-9 oz Veg tan for holsters. In the past occasionaly I'd get an errany missed stitch, seemed to be more predictable with exotics like Elephant etc. But now it seems all of a sudden with 2-3 layers of anywhere from 6 to 9 oz Hermann Oak I start out my stitching and in about 5 or 6 stitches, it starts to skip. If I somehow manage to get it to catch by repeatedly trying in the same hole, it will usually skip on the next stitch. More often than not it will fray and or stitch right through the thread. All of the issues are with the top thread.

    I visually inspected the timing and it appears to be timed right, though I did not take exact measurements. Even when watching the hook with the plate off, it seemed it would catch a few times then it wouldn't, or the hook would go through the middle of the thread.

    I have a fresh needle in it, 180 Schmetz.

    I tried the trick or lowering the needle a touch, a couple of different times, and that did not help at all.

    Could this be a thread issue? Black thread, not sure of the brand but I'm at least 1/2 way through the spool.

    Any thoughts or suggestions?

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I suggest you try Pro oil black dye it will penetrate better then the USMC black, and requires much, much less buffing.

    After dying any color I always oil, then seal with an acrylic sealer, I use Resolene = No rub off at all.

    This.

    USMC is a little blacker, but that is the only redeeming quality. Pro is the only way to go. much less buffing required and it coats evenly. I use Supersheen (cut 50/50 with water) rather than resolene, but that's just a personal preference.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Big River....thanks for posting the pic of that shoulder rig. I have a buddy with the same 'hand cannon' wanting a similar holster. Maybe I can borrow an idea or two from your photos... :)

    It had a strap that went over the hammer you can't see - you can see the snap for it.

    Also, If I were to do it again (I hope not) Id add a strap that would go around the waist to help stabilize it.

    That was his deer hunting rig. He's since moved to Arizona, probably hunting armadillos with it now.

  12. Posted · Edited by BigRiverLeather · Report reply

    That's awesome! Nice color.

    I did this one shortly after I started working with leather for a co-worker to chest carry his S&W Performance Center 500, 10.5" barrel with a scope.

    IMG_1091.jpg

    Here's the bad news - I brought it to him, he started to put it on, looked at me and said - "this if for a right handed guy" :oops: I forgot a very improtant question at the time, RH or LH? Ended up making a whole new one for him. Hand Stitched!

    Here is the peashooter that went in it

    IMG_1059.jpg

    IMG_1061.jpg

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I'm very close to getting my hands on a few more of these. I might have 2 extras available. I can see if I can get more. It's been a long time coming but in fact we were supposed to get together last weekend. It's been delayed a couple of weeks due to personal schedules, but we are close. I can see if he can make some more. They are not as durable as an aluminum mold, and maybe not quite as much as a Rings, but if you don't beat themexcessively with a mallet, they will hold up fine.

    siggsr_zps071012a2.jpg

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I use a drum sander in my drill press, may upgrade to a oscillating sander someday. The grits I use on my drums is Around 100 or so, but then I after I bevel the edges I go in with these Scotch Brite Finishing sander flapper wheel.

    $T2eC16d,!yUE9s6NFmkYBQ7uypBdzQ~~60_12.JPG

    It conforms nicely to the edge. I have them in Medium and Fine. I really like the fine. I wet the edge and go at it with this and it gets me to a point where I can then go after it with 400 grit paper by hand, then burnish it. Lots of hand work on my edges.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Like this?

    siggsr.jpg

    I had offered a free holster on a local forum to anyone who had a GSR I could use as a mold for an order I had. Turns out one guy that volunteered was a mold maker by profession so he made me a couple. I modified one to be a commander and another to be the commander w/o a rail.

    I've considered having more made to sell if there is enough interest, but I think they might be kind of pricey at about $50.

  22. Posted · Edited by BigRiverLeather · Report reply

    A while back I had some issues with a large multiple order with the holsters being too tight. Bagging wouldn't work. If it did, it wasn't for long and it seemed they shrunk back.

    That was when I first tried LeatherKote. I got if from Brownell's. Create your account as a manufacturer and you will get a good discount. I bought the small jar and shipped it to the customer. It immediately solved their problem. I keep some on hand now and use it frequently. It really slicks up the draw and any holsters that come out tight are no longer an issue.

    ETA: last time I went to buy some (spilled my jar, normally will last a LONG time) Brownells was out and I was able to get it from Midway.

    http://www.brownells...ct/LEATHER-KOTE

    p_665000003_1.jpg

  24. Posted · Report reply

    UPDATE:

    I talked to the fine folks at JRM and there was no issue ordering a small quantity of clips, at least if it was a clip they had in stock which for me happened to be the 3007 (see chart above, top right. I ordered 30 clips at .90 eachwith the powder coat finish (.15 more than than the less durable black oxide)

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