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BigRiverLeather

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Posts posted by BigRiverLeather

  1. Posted · Report reply

    After nearly 20 years as a saddle maker, I am finally closing my doors. I am headed a new direction and I've decided the only way to get out and stay out is to sell everything off. I have everything from trees, hardware, stamping tools, Adler 205-370, you name it I probably have it.

    I purchased the Adler brand new in 1997 and I am the sole owner of it. It runs, sews, and performs A1 just like a brand new machine. Asking $3500.00 OBO (price a new one and you see this is a very fair price) Multiple feet and plates included (you may want to price them too)

    I will post pics as soon as I can, email me if you are interested.

    Thanks.........Jeff

    What do you have for knives and or other tools, is there a list? maybe particularly interested in knives

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I did the same thing for quite a while, not enough volume to by grade A from Hermann Oak so I was getting the sides from Springfield. If you ask for a back the will trim the belly off, but you can still get other blemish areas. Be sure to tell them you are using it for holsters and to hand pick the clear ones. This worked sometimes for me, then others I could swear Ray Charles picked them out.

    I called HO and asked them who retails grade A sides. Goliger Leather is the only retailer they knew of that did. Goliger has 6-7 oz and 8-9 oz with pasted backs in Grade A. My first order I used 90% of what I had and will probably find uses for the rest easy enough. I just got a new order and this 6-7 oz had quite a few more stretch marks which was disappointing. I've not yet inspected the 8-9 oz. I'm just going to make sure the next batch I get I will specify a hand picked back.

    http://www.goligerleather.com/

  5. Posted · Report reply

    How are you applying it? Browns used to be quite frustrating for me. If I'm concerned about the consistency of the color and using resolene, I'll airbrush it with my cheap harbor freight airbrush kit.

    I've been using Leather Sheen mixed about 50/50 with water. I wanted to get the Angelus finish but it could not be shipped in the winter. I went to Tandy and the only other thing they had besides resolene was the Leather Sheen. I himmed and hawed a bit, they said it was not as glossy as the resolene, but the kicker was when they told me that they like how fast it dried. This is exactly what I wanted. I've been very pleased with the relusts. BTW, I dip mine.

    I'm glad to be away from resolene. Even when applied in thin coats it was still far to tacky for me and seemed to require much more drying time. Sometimes it would take a week for the tackiness to go away, or I would end up shipping it still a bit tacky which I did not like. I use it occassionaly now. If I want more of a glossy finish I will airbrush some on after my standard procedure.

    I'm about ready for more, and wondering if I should go back to the original plan and get the Angelus, or stick with what is working for me.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I've used quite a bit of horsehide and actually enjoy working with it. I burnishes beautifully and easily. I was scared about the dye problems at first, but have never really had an issue with it. I'll bet I've had more problems with dying cow than horse (brown!) Maybe it is because I usually airbrush it.

    As far as cracking, I'll bet it's a lower grade cut that already has some cracking in it. I've spread it around quite a bit to try to find who has the best hides. The very first piece was the best one I ever got, from Pete at.....damn, can't remember the name, someone here knows who I'm talking about. This year he only has 4-5 ounce left I guess. Been thinking about ordering some and doubling it up and make lined horsehide.

    Brutten's (spelling) Village sent me some very nice ones to. The cheap ones for $10-$12 each have usually sucked.

    For IWB, Horsehide ROCKS! It's thin and very comfortable.

    I find it is no harder to form or bone my leather than cow.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hey folks, wondering if the Springfield EMP and the Kimber Ultra Carry will fit the same holster? Thanks

    Early on I used the 3" 1911 Rings mold for both. The EMP seemed to fit fine. I don't know that my holsters were as tightly molded as they are now, but pretty close.

    There is a bit of a difference in the gun and I since have acquired a mold for the EMP as well, just to be safe. I don't think you will have any problems.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    If using it as a trim I will first glue it to a piece of 2-3 oz, sometimes heavier depending on the application. This allows me to burnish the edge a little easier, giving it some structure. sand the edges just as you would on your holster. I get down to a 400 grit, wet the edge with spit (nothing works as god as wiping spit on it) then burnish it. It is one of the tougher hides to burnish, but you can get there.

    Sig1911RDSOmahogcharceleph3.jpg

  14. Posted · Edited by BigRiverLeather · Report reply

    Agreed on both counts. Excellent forming, but how is the comfort and stability riding up that high? I would make the loop attachment points the same as the snap point. You can raise the wings up a hair too to help.

    Put a bit more of a corner on the upper outside edges of your wings to. This will help as a pocket carrier. They will act as "hooks" grabbing the inside of the pocket so it does not come out with the mag.

    For an IWB mag carrier, you may want to try making a shield on the back that goes up to the top of the mag to prevent it from digging in. That may impede the grip while pocket carrying but I think the trade off for IWB comfort would outweigh it.

    If you flatten out the bottom some it will help stabilize it in the pocket too.

    Expand on this -

    th_PMGRHcognacostrich.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    This is how I learned to build that type... (thanks woolfe)

    http://leatherworker...=1

    ^^^ This.

    I was making them before I saw this but once I did it this way it became a relative piece of cake. Though the steel does add some security, IMHO I don't believe it is worth it. my holsters have all the strength they need, especially with this wrap around design, to keep the mouth open. I have used steel reinforcement and when I do I use steel banding.

    I would be interested in knowing how MS gets the steel in there and forms it. That is some stout steel.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I'm making a hot box for drying my holsters before I end up baking a batch of them in the oven after forgetting them, or Mama turns it on for dinner :censored2:

    I've got a 2 door cabinet that stands about 30" high. I've got a vent slot for it so I can regulate the heat and air flow. I'm trying to decide if I want to use a heat lamp or a small heater fan I bought at Harbor Freight. The cabinet is big and heavy so I have not moved it inside yet, sitting outside. I'd prefer to leave it in the garage but it get's mighty cold here in WI so I bought some insulation wrap to put around it or maybe in it. We'll get it moved inside this spring, or maybe even build something new and smaller.

    Can you show me what you've got?

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I'll tell you what, if that were my first Sheridan belt I'd be thrilled. The tooling looks very well done.

    One thing I can suggest is when doing your edges - after edging and sanding to the shape you'd like, I use 320 grit paper, the kind that comes on a roll on cloth. Wet the edge with spit. Nothing works as good as spit. Rub and sand quickly and you will find that all of a sudden your edge will burnish to a glassy finish. Other types of sandpaper don't work like the cloth strips.

    Very nice work though.

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