dmr400

One more picture, so it's a little clearer how it is put together. You can kinda see the seam of the pocket in this one.

Not a whole lot of leather on this, but thought it might stir some memories or good stories. I used a bedroll similar to this growing up around ranches in Eastern Oregon as a kid, and since I am going to spend this summer on the desert and in the woods as much as possible (missed the last 2 summers, government sponsored trip to Iraq) I decided it was time to make myself one. They aren't made to be light, historically using at least 5 or 6 blankets or quilts(usually 2 to 1: 2 below you for every one on top since you lose more heat into the ground). I went a little more modern, with 2 foam pads and 2 flannel sleeping bags, even though I usually only use one. The extra bag makes good padding, and nice to have just in case it gets really cold, which it can do in a heartbeat in the high desert. In the old days this was a buckaroos home on the range, with extra clothes, tools, weapons, even cooking gear rolled up inside it with his sleeping gear. The top is left long enough that when it rains you can just pull it over your head (if you didn't know, these are seldom used in tents, they work best under a starry desert sky! ) I incorporated a couple of changes that I thought would be nice into this one. 1.) Clips that will anchor the storm flap down, so you can leave your camp without weighting down the storm flap if you think it might rain or be dusty. 2.) The storm flap is actually a large pocket (left the top twice as long as actually needed, made a quick hem at the top, folded it over, and sewed down the edges), so you can throw your pants, jacket, phone, etc inside it to keep the dew off of them after you go to bed. You can also pack your clothes in it, saves a duffel bag. These covers are nice because you can do lots of things with them. Add or subtract sleeping bags based on the weather (or even make them up with sheets and blankets like my dad did). You don't need as good a sleeping bag either, since you gain insulation from the canvas and the cover keeps water out, so you don't have to invest in a waterproof sleeping bag. I actually prefer the less expensive flannel lined bags. The cover also takes all the abuse and dirt, so even the cheaper sleeping bags last forever. Anyway, here it is. Anyone else use one, make them, have good memories they would like to share? Oh, even though the last picture shows it open completely (so people can see how simple it is), I usually just loosen the cross ties to the last hole (even open the top one completely if its warm and dry) and crawl in bed, no reason to let the dew or creepy crawlies in. There is a third cross tie not visible under the storm flap at the top about where your chin would go. It's best to unroll and open during the day if you can though, just to let the moisture from your perspiration or breath dry out.

Neat holster, I like the lace up front as well.

Thanks Boomstick, I thought it would work out like that. By the way, your avatar isn't showing up for me, not sure if it's just me or a real error. Thought you might like to know. Thanks Monica, apparently we were posting at the same time.

Hello, I'm curious what everyone does for carriers for Glock Magazines. For example, and the reason for the question, a Model 19 and a Model 23 are the same exterior dimensions, and thus you can use the same mold. Do you feel/does your experience show the same holds true for magazines/magazine carriers? Or do you use separate dummies? How does this apply to the Glock model sizes, ie the 17/22, 20/21, 26/27, etc? Interested in what others do. Thanks, Andy

I use Adobe Illustrator for my patterns. Here is my process, hope it will help: 1.) Take a belly scrap and make a quick envelope style pouch with a couple inches of space around everything, throw a few lines of 3-4 stitches at intervals around the flap to hold it together. Wet mold around the dummy with the sight track dowl in place, and then take a pen and draw where the outside mold lines and key features (ejection port, cylinder, magazine release, etc depending on the gun) are. Also a reasonably straight line down the top where the site track/center of the fold is. 2.) Remove the dummy and cut the stitches. Use a rolling pin to flatten out the pattern. Scan into my computer (300 ppi, same as my documents in Illustrator so I don't lose or gain any size). 3.) Now that it's in the computer I place it into an illustrator document and "trace" for lack of a better word the outlines on a new layer. Add an appropriate gap for the stitchlines, draw the cutlines outside of those, and go from there. I use the rulers and guides EXTENSIVELY to get the spacing right, and for envelope styles I copy one whole side, paste it into a new layer, and use the reflect tool to make sure everything matches up. Or, I'll just draw half the pattern, trace it onto the leather, then flip it and draw the other half from the backside. 4.) Print the pattern on regular paper, and treat it as a disposable pattern (I've still got everything saved on my computer). No cardboard at all. If I have made a mistake and given myself too much/too little room I can measure the error, use the rulers and guides tools in the program, and move whatever line I need to move almost exactly the right amount. Usually the second one is close to perfect, at least as far as layout goes. I guess to answer your original question a little better, I don't use the stretch tools much. I draw each segment separately with the straight and arc line segment tools, so each corner or straight line is a different segment and can be resized independently. I've attached a PDF of what it looks like after the mold/scan/trace process. Glock 19 Mold Lines Marked2.pdf

Thanks everyone for your time and feedback. I've ditched the rollover pictures for now, I work on a 21" monitor and sometimes forget not everyone is so fortunate Still debating on how to make that work, some experimentation is ahead. Have also shortened the wait time page as suggested, and changed the wording for the packages.

The Ayes have it...phone number comes off Thanks everyone!

Hello everyone, I'm just about finished with my website and I was wondering if anyone would mind crawling through it and critiquing it. It can be found at: PF Gunleather Home Page or if the link doesn't work at: www.pfgunleather.com I've only tested it in Internet Explorer and Mozilla Firefox, so if you use a different browser I would appreciate your feedback on how it worked. The most glaring things missing right now are the examples of the different colors (which will be fixed in the near future), and the lack of a picture of the pancake holster (I keep forgetting to take pictures before I send them to their new home so I'll have to make another one of my latest design). All comments and feedback gratefully accepted now matter how big or small! Thanks, Andy

Dwight, I think he was wanting to sew so he could forgo the rivets, an idea that also occured to me. Personally, I just don't like the looks of them. If I could think of a way to sew belt ends and still be able to change the buckle I'd toss all my chicago screws too, but I think those are a necessary evil Anyway, I think it would look pretty neat with a sewn arrowhead style ending on the back, with just the stitching showing through the front (Not punching an extra hole and bringing the strap to the front of the belt). What do you guys think?

Holy Batman, it's an envelope! I missed that the first time too, slick idea...bet it's a pain to sew though! Although....maybe not so bad now that I look at it...easier than a VMII style since you don't have to fight the wings?

Thanks DC!

Does anyone happen to have the dimensions of an older style leatherman tool, like the one attached? I'd like to whip up a case for my dad's for fathers day to match the belt I'm making him, but I can't find mine (too many moves!) and can't find the dimensions to make a model. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Andy

Agreed that the pistol has some wiggle room as the trigger guard leaves the leather. Personally, I like to rock my pistol backwards as that happens when drawing for time, and the full length sight track ensures there isn't any of the infamous fuzz as the slide keeps the top of the sight from digging in as it pivots. But I have to say, the more I look at this holster the more I like the color scheme. I've been doing some white thread on black leather lately, and I just really like the contrast. Great minds, eh? I like your makers mark too, very calligraphic. Almost reminds me of Arabic script, but I've had that on the brain for a while

Particle, I really like that holster! Tooling looks good, and the black appeals to me. Have to say though, I'm with the customer, the ejection port kinda ruins the top line of the pistol. Question, how far back from the front sight does your dowel for the sight track go? I like to take mine all the way out of the holster, that way you can mold the port and still have a top line that continues the entire length of the piece, without a sight track that tapers down as you pull the pistol further out of the holster. If this doesn't make sense let me know and I'll try and explain what I mean better.