Sharpshooter

I just completed a blind trade for a "sewing machine". I traded off some stuff I had lying around and wasn't going to use for this machine. Click Image for full size Click Image for full size The guy I got it from used it to sew leather, It'll punch holes in leather and feed it so he's not lying but being a walking foot machine I'm pretty sure that leatherworking wasn't the original intent. Anyone know anything about this.... Mercury M-337... I could use threading directions, needle sizes, value etc.

All of my stamping is done on one of the H/F arbor presses.... Between 300 and 800 pieces a week... Just drill a hole in the ram to accommodate the stem on the stamp. slide on a cheater bar, put down a piece of Corion to press against and you're in business. We don't even case the leather....

That can come in quite handy since I traded mine to the devil a few years back.

I'm a production sheath maker, 300+ sheaths a week. We have a standard from which I will not budge... 'FIRST CLASS OR SCRAP." Regardless whether my mark is stamped on the sheath or the customer's, he and I both know who made them and he'll quickly forget the conversation where I agreed to compromise on quality under the pressure of a customer complaint. That strict adherence to a quality standard has lost me sales but a reputation for high quality is far more valuable to me. There are customers who have asked me if there is a way for the job to be done "Cheaper?" I respond that they can most certainly find someone who will do it for less money. The issue in this industry is that since the majority of people in leatherworking see it as a hobby, they don't have the overhead expenses nor do they really need to make money doing it. A Hobby Leatherworker will be very happy pursuing his interest on someone elses dime, working on free leather is the perfect setup. There's nothing wrong with that and many hobbyists far more talented than than I am when it comes right down to it. I design sheaths to be manufactured efficiently to assure me a profit, hand cutting parts and saddle stitching are chores to me where they are a source of recreation and relaxation to the hobby maker. I don't change what I do, I design sheaths to meet my customer's specifications so long as the overall quality meets my standards, when they want less, I pass on the job and concentrate on doing what we do best. I may never get rich doing it that way, but I'll sleep well at night and live with pride in every sheath that bears my mark.

I think the operative part of this conversation is CONCEALED carry. Keep in mind that the guy is standing there with the pistol fully exposed and his arm out of the way to facilitate the "Grab". In the REAL world the holstered pistol is concealed, meaning out of sight so a jacket or shirt would be in the way and I somehow doubt that many people walk around with their right arm held out of the way. Did the holster fail, sorta, the pistol is still not in a condition to be instantly fired the trigger is still covered requiring that the holster part be removed from the pistol before it can be used. What we're also failing to consider it the technique used by the guy wearing the gun when the grab is initiated. A left elbow to the side of the head as he turned his gun side away from the attempt would be a lot more effective than the half hearted attempt to hang on to his pistol. Frankly, while we all saw what happened, keep in mind that we also saw EXACTLY what the filmmaker wanted us to see. I make sheaths out of both Kydex and Leather. I've likely made 5,000 kydex sheaths and NEVER had one fail to retain the knife. Is leather better? Depends on what you want it to do. If I'm going to be in a wet environment for YEARS at a time, leather wouldn't be my choice, I'd want kydex. If we're talking about a fine quality knife or a classic design, then I'm first going to look at leather. Different Horses for different courses....

The simplest way to get the perfect wet molding on a sheath is to dampen the leather, slide the knife into the sheath and wrap it in a couple layers of papertowel. Put the entire thing into a vaccuum food packing bag and suck it down tight, leave it sealed for about 30 minutes before opening he bag and it's done. Way fast and easy.

I do a lot of sheaths for "hard use" in the woods and several for active duty military. We've tested several "wet proofing" treatments including the time tested paraffin hot waxing. Paraffin actually seems to work well... for a while.... then the sheath deteriorates quickly compared to one that didn't get a hot wax job. I'm thinking it's partially the "Hot" and partially the fact that paraffin is a petroleum product so it may well be damaging the leather fibers. What I have arrived at is Obenauf's LP. There are no petroleum products in it only natural oils and Beeswax/Propolis. Great stuff.

The blade was made from flat stock we had in the shop, ground it to shape and convexed it. It's nice to have a knife shop right next door. Billy, The handles are slick? Bark River uses a bunch of different materials for handles, over 100 options at last count. Without seeing the material it's hard to know what we're dealing with. Regardless, the knife is warranted unconditionally so you can't mess it up beyond repair. I would take some 600 grit sandpaper to the handle, wet sand it to knock off the slick. If that doesn't do the job, send it to the shop and ask Donna to get it to me, we'll straighten it out and turn it around ASAP. Or shoot me a Private topic and we'll get you taken care of.

I made this one at an event I host with Bark River Knife and Tool... I had to take it apart and shorten the handle but it's perfect now.

Thanks for the answer Art, A while back I did a tutorial on sharpening convex edges. The same technique can be used to convex a bevel ground blade. Here's the link. I do have the luxury of having a full fledged knife factory on the other side of the building so I can jump on a buffer to freshen up the edge but the technique in the tutorial works just as well. I need to make another head knife since my crew has discovered mine they all want one. Old tool technology just never dies...

And another..... Semper Fi.....

Google is a wonderful tool, better than any calculator or trig textbook..... Type in "tangent of 20 degrees" ... Ok, now since I jumped in being a wiseguy, I have a question.... Why not a convex edge on a head knife? I've been working with knives and knifemakers for a long time and have found that a convex edge is far and away better than a bevel in every case. I made my headknife and convexed it from the beginning so I have no basis for comparison. As far as I can tell, the knife works perfectly, cuts around curves, skives well and stays sharp; is there something I'm missing?

You'll find the eyelets at Siska Fasteners... The part number is S42 They are also referred to by the Stimpson Number GS6-14 The "Post" is .183" diameter and .437 long The problem is that Siska will only sell to businesses and in large quantities; I buy them 50,000 at a time because I requite that they be Nickle Plated. I don't know how many you're looking for but if it's for a small job you can contact me at the e-mail address on my website and we can hook you up. Reid