JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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Personally I would SIMPLIFY that logo. Looks okay, but I think you'll find that LESS detail is better. On line, simpler images load faster and require less resolution (which makes them, again, load faster). And in print, you'll find that multiple color printing adds cost quickly.
And - each his own - I do not like "script" fonts, unless it's very brief and recognizable text. EVERYTHING is legible when its 4" across
Simple is good. Think of some BIG ones everybody recognizes...
Target - one color, one shape
McDonalds - one color, just a couple "arches"
Nike - just a 'checkmark'
Etc, etc....
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On 8/5/2022 at 2:37 PM, Lasse said:I might have found some… interested?
Sure. Post it here, as others likely want to know too.
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i looked off and on for a couple YEARS, and i never did find 135x16s in LR. I like those LR needles too.
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As noted, I have TEN dummy gun holster molds... ALL for one price, shipping included in the US at $300. 8 are Rings, 2 are Cooks. Clean out this drawer for me and save money
Sig Mosquito
Sig P365 SAS (cooks mold)
Kimber SOLO
SA Micro Compact 1911
SA XDS 3.3"
Keltec 9
Taurus Millenium G2 (Cooks mold)
SW J-frame revolver
SW Bodyguard 380 w./laser
Walther PPK
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looks good... an ya pick a mean guit-fiddle
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looks good
croc? caiman?
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I like the look, just wondering if that wont catch a shirt purdy often
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4 hours ago, CowboyBob said:Hey Jeff,That looks GREAT!!
HEY BOB -- howya doin?
This is one of those "curved panel" holsters... wraps around the hip. Guy showed up to clean out the garage for me, got talkin bout guns n stuff... and wanted this for his Dad.
8 oz Wickett-Craig leather with Cowboy thread from Bob 'n' friends
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On 6/29/2022 at 8:49 AM, GatoGordo said:
While I printed several guns and made holsters, I only reality tested the Glock 17. Here is a holster I made from the printed model with a real Glock 17 in it. I assume the others are as accurate.
that design look a bit familiar ..
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pic just in from happy camper, fits like a new skin on his BG380
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On 5/21/2022 at 5:49 PM, dikman said:JLS, that holster on the left is stunning! I can't get my head around how you drew the design!!!
I didn't draw it. That's an "oldy but a goody" from a [maybe] 1950's leather craft publication. I was kinda on a mission to carve ALL the patterns in that booklet, and this one fit a pattern for a Ruger very nicely. I'll see kin I find that one around here...
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I like the pattern to go beyond the center line, but carving the 'back" or inside isnt' something I'd normally do. And yeah - carve it, let it dry, then line it (on a curve).
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I aint a big fan o' snake, but that looks nice
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$90 for THAT?@!
Amazing the things people will throw their money away on. That's like $5 worth of leather and a few minutes labor. Click it out like 10 per minute, a little cement to hold it for a minute while it's sewn.... ughhh...!!!!!
But, not my problem what the other guy does with HIS money, I suppose.
I like LINED myself. There IS something to line with, ALL the time, in various thickness / stiffness / style to suit anything. NO LEGIT reason NOT to line a project... usually always about COST (the MAKER'S profit, not actual cost). Everybody wants to "maximize profit" and some can't see that lined DOES.
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On 3/20/2022 at 8:11 AM, chuck123wapati said:a brushed bronze plaque like the corner pieces would look good
'attaboy, Chuck
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call tx custom dies and have em make you one. it'll show up sharp and ready to use.
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Not going to call this "scrap", cuz folks seem to think that word means the leftovers, the not so good, the waste. This is not that, and I dare say my "scrap" is nicer leather than many are using routinely. Most is 7/8 oz, so think holsters, sheaths, and similarly sized articles. Could also make some pet collars, billet straps, and maybe a belt fer the younguns. I will have some Hermann Oak belt strips to dig out before long, so feel free to keep that in mind, but not in this batch. This is ALL FIRM AND USABLE leather ... NO belly leather and no "spongey" stuff. Forms and tools BEAUTIFULLY. I just need the space more than the stuff at teh moment.
This is about 45 sq ft of good leather. That's a 6 foot measurin' stick and a 24" square in the pics.
Wickett-Craig skirting spit to about 8 oz in black and chestnut (retails at $11/foot), and the natural is Hermann Oak, mostly 3/4 oz.
$150 I'll figure out how to ship it in the US
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Depends on teh size of the carving. On small fish, a "veiner" works well. If you have bigger fish ta try (
) maybe a mulefoot, or maybe swivel knife cuts, dependin also on the type of fish.
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I don't do anything to the inside of unlined belts.
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1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:And ya'll are bitchin about reverse not perfectly aligning with forward!
that was a ROOT issue for ME (not speaking for anybody else), that was a catalyst for an issue,... but my actual complaint was getting a product that DIDNT do what I was told it WOULD, and then getting a crass, unprofessional, downright childish response to my legitimate complaint. And that was BEFORE any 'covid' or Ukraine, and I didn't buy from a middle-man retailer.
Can't keep your help, or lost people due to lockdowns, or your "good" people retired, or your wife is nagging so you went fishin'. Whatever.. flat tire could happen to ANYBODY. But if YOU'RE (the seller) having these issues, STOP advertising your wonderful product and even better service. The truth actually carries you further than a polished line of BS. I can imagine how that would go if I sold something (at 10% of the cost of one of these machines) and it didn't fit the customer, or looked nice "mostly, except maybe just the inside was't so great", or ....whatever - and my response was to say YOU did something wrong, or it would work, tell you call me again next week, then just don't answer the phone.
So I have no desire to bash folks, but when somebody asks, I'm quite honest about my experiences. If your selling point is your service, and your service is not good, then you really can't complain when I tell the truth about it. In fact, maybe YOU (the seller) should have been honest yourself - from the start - and just said "we had the "good" ones retire, and covid, and Ukraine, and I think I heard my mom calling, or whatever excuse you're using... and just said "our service may be a bit slower until we get that worked out".
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That's a LEATHER issue, not a dye issue. Don't give that supplier ANY more of your money.
You want to work with leather, get good leather. I recommend Cheryl and Carlos at Goliger Leather. Never got a piece of leather from there that wasn't TOP SHELF... ALWAYS satisfied with what they send.
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Oh, wait.. you wuz talkin' HOLSTERS in chocolate ...
The first and third are chocolate dye ONLY. Teh middle one is done with Fiebing's "dark brown" (thinned) and shown here to show the difference in color... teh dark brown is clearly more reddish ...
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full on chocolate looks almost black. Thin the dye and it's one of my all time favorites (now they have 50 shades that didn't used to exist).
These were done ONLY with chocolate Fiebing's. The background of the top one is FULL STRENGTH chocolate, the rest is thinned about 30:1. Same thing on the belt with the 3-piece buckle set.
This belt is chocolate ONLY, about 15:1 if I remember right, and the notebook binder background is the same dye, applied with an airbrush.
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got tan-kote? mix a bit of tan-kote with a dollop of chocolate dye.
bit and dollop are generic terms for SOME, depending on the shade you want.
this is not "supposed to" work.. mixing a water based product with an alcohol based thing, but i'm telling you that it DOES very well (assuming you'll test on scrap to get the right shade anyway, so you'll then know it works)
Airbrush questions
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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external mix siphon feed and double action are not exclusive of each other. my paasche VL is an external mix, siphon feed, double action brush (works well). very few airbrushes are internal mix, and they are priced much higher than the external mix counterparts. It's true though that the internal mix generally allows much finer detail (though the paints may be restricted in type... leather dyes would likely need to be strained before using in internal brushes). I like the syphon feed type just because the "cup" is usually larger (as opposed to gravity feed brushes).
The Paasche VL I started with because that's what S-T Leather (St Louis, MO) was selling at the time and I didn't know any better. I have since purchased several more of the same model - VERY handy for leather work, capable of a wide range of applications without altering anything other than screwing on a tip. See it here
I do not recommend spending the (much) extra money for a "airbrush compressor". I have always used a pancake-type compressor, standard for use with nail guns and impact wrenches, etc. Long as you have a pressure regulator and a moisture trap (which you should have no matter what you're using for the air). The one I currently use came FREE at Menards with the purchase of a finish nailer I used for new kitchen counter kick plate trim. Already had a regulator, so just add an in-line moisture trap (under $20) and off ya go. I set mine 20-40 psi depending on what I'm doing. It kicks on, makes noise, then I can spray for half an hour before it kicks on again. Want to get quiet? Put the compressor in the next room (or a closet) and run an air hose to where you're working