JWGlover
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Posts posted by JWGlover
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Just saw on website that Tandy is now carrying Hermann Oak Leather, but it's a little pricy. Is Tandy finally starting to change their image?
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you can take a little off the end so the set screw can go in a little deeper to make contact with the blade. I ran mine on my benchtop belt sander and took about an 1/8 off.
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You can also wet it and then scrape it with a skiver, that usually evens everything out.
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Hey Robert, I looked up your address on your website and you ain't that far from my dad. He lives over off Hwy 16 and Smith Rd. Sometime when I'm over that direction I'll give you a call and maybe we can get together.
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I might be interested, I just don't know when I could find the time. I live in Lytle so SA ain't that far for me, but my weekends are usually pretty busy.
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I have no idea. I think it's on there to hide some of the fleshy parts. It has a tendency to flake off so that's why I sanded it. It would probably have to be sanded anyway in order for it to adhere to a lining piece.
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I sanded that stuff off of mine first then molded. Seemed to be fine.
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Welcome Chuck. The first step in rehabilitation is admitting you have a problem. All of us here will be here to help you in your time of need.
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To keep your awl from going all the way through you can put some leather washers through your blade to get the depth you want. It also keeps the awl from marring the leather.
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The Tandy groover is pretty easy to use compared to the Horseshoe Brand groover I bought about two months ago. I can't get it to track straight, it keeps wanting to walk towards the edge making me use some colorful metaphors.
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They are kind of difficult to run so you might want to try TLF first to see if you like it. They are only about 7 bucks so it won't set you back much.
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Damn nice rig.
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Thanks from me too.
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I bought one too to use for small stuff and was worried about the same thing so I just took that stuff off with a belt sander.
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Well, I have an answer for you on the Tandy/Stohlmann damascus knife steel. Tandy recently put these on sale for half price and listed the steel used: SUS410. This is a variation of 410 stainless steel and according to what I found for the chemistry of the steel, it contains .08 to .15 % carbon. That ain't much, when you want steel to have around a full 1% !! I don't know what other steel they're using to get the damascus effect, but none is listed. Could be the blade is just etched to get a damascus 'looking' steel, and it might be all SUS 410. The applications listed nuts, bolts, tubing, lining etc, but nowhere did it recommend this grade for cutlery. Heat treating this steel will only get you marginal hardness, and it certainly won't hold up for edge retention. This is what I was talking about folks...someone will buy this, find out it won't hold an edge and then swear off ALL stainless. Too bad, really. So, do some research before you buy. Shoot for 1% carbon whichever type you use and you won't have a paperweight that looks like a knife, (provided there is good heat treatment...).
Terry
I actually bought one of these a while back and you're right. It was sharp out of the box it didnt last long. It is also not true damascus it is etched because on a damascus blade you can feel the different layers of steel and on that tandy knife you can't.
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I was wondering if you have tried to dye it yet? i bought a European side and noticed that it took the dye differently than other leather. I just recently made a belt using two different sides (European side for billet and chape) and those pieces came out a lighter color.
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i have used the European sides and have noticed that it takes dye differently than other leather. i was just wondering if yall thought the same thing?
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Luke is hooking me up with a replacement head for my mallet.
Thanks Luke!!
Joker
I just had the same problem with mine now i have to look for another head.
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I used to drill my holes with a bit but in order to keep the holes from coming out too big I would have to use a small bit and would have to pull the needle through with a pair of pliers. I liked the way it looked because it looked like it was done by machine but it got to be a PIA. Now I only use an awl and it is a whole lot faster.
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Well since so many other fellow Texans posted, I thought I might as well too lol.
Welcome from College Station
Gig em aggies. Sorry, I had to do that.
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Hello, I'm RD from Central Texas. I just joined up thanks for having me. I have been a leathercrafter for a few years, mostly make gun leather, knife sheaths, spur straps and other cowboy stuff. Look forward to learning, sharing and enjoying the association with other leather workers. Here is an example of my work.
regards
RD
Welcome to the site from another Texan in Lytle. Your work looks good. I look forward to seeing some more.
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I'm very anal about stuff like that so I would restitch that small section.
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I agree, all the patterns I have seen say to use 4/5 oz.
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Most people tell me I was born 100 years too late. I am 33 year old geezer and I have never understood why a man or a teenager would ever want to get their ear pierced. I don't care if they do but it's just not my cup of tea. It always struck me funny that a young male would have it done to be different and set themselves apart from others but alot of other younger guys were doing it too so they're not really setting themselves apart.
Tandy Selling Hermann Oak
in Suppliers
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I plan on going tomorrow to see what they are. I just don't see paying that much.