JohnD

Just to add my .02, I don't make to many holsters but, on the seats and stuff I make that have a burnished edge, I use a fast drying fabric glue (that says it will work on leather) around the edges to glue the seam together. Then I trim and sand my edge. after I burnish the edge I go around to look for spots where the seam seems to be separating or looks like it might separate and split it apart as far as it will split easily and reglue. then I reburnish and touch up any areas that need it. Hope this helps John

What about, removing the old handle and wrapping them with leather? or perhaps a nice braided handle? or, my old standby....(white) hockey tape? Hope this helps, John

Nice job. The tooling and dye are awesome. "very clean", I agree. John

Thanks, The book I used as a reference tells you how much. I usually cut smaller lengths, like 3 or 4', to minimize stretching and wear from pulling the lace through the holes so many times. Also, I can't find any way to edit the pics that are already posted so I'll try it here.

Wow, sorry about the pic size. When I previewed the post and clicked on them they didn't open that big, so I thought they were ok. I'll try to fix them.

Also, Here is a close up of the face. The picture from the customer had no real detail and while making the pattern the fixed a few things, like made the eyes the same size and such, but he didn't like the changes so I kept the pattern as close to his picture as possible. Now that I'm thinking about it, maybe I should have put this in the critique thread, cause I wouldn't mind if anyone had any critiques or advice to help me improve my work, so feel free to pick it apart. John

I don't usually post many pictures of my work, since I've asked for a lot of advice on this one I thought I should post it. It was supposed to be all black, but the guy saw one of my other seats at the shop and decided to go with the "sunburst". The picture of the girl was provided by the customer, as well as the warped seat pan. The lacing is a 3 loop spanish edge or cordover. Thanks again for the help in getting this done. John

Thanks again Luke and thank you to Leatheroo for the info I needed. You guys are awesome. This place rules. John

Thanks, Luke

I am using a Spanish edge lacing with three loops on a seat and cannot find any info on joining the ends. I have Bruce Grants Leather Braiding book, but there is nothing in it about joining the ends with 3 loops and the two loop method doesn't work with 3. I have searched Here and Googled every combination of the words I can think of and have come up empty. I have about 8 hours into lacing this thing and the ends are on the verge of looking ragged from trying to work it out myself. The seat is supposed to be picked up Friday and this and final finish are all that's left to do, So any help would be very much appreciated even just a nudge in the right direction...... otherwise this is going to keep me up all night. Thanks John

Ray, I use a closed cell, neoprene foam (like mouse pad foam). Most of my seats are 1/2" thick, but sometimes I'm asked to make cushier ones. For these, I stack the foam in layers, using 3m spray adhesive. I use a Black&Decker turkey knife to cut the basic shape, then use a surform to make the final shape. Be careful of the direction you work, because the surform can tear chunks out. It does make a mess, so have the shop vac ready. After shaping the foam, I usually do a test fit on the bike and make any adjustments to the shape. If the bike isn't in our shop, I have the customer check the shape to make sure it's what they want before covering it. Make your patterns for the cover from the finished padded seat. Some things to consider: If the seat is to be frame mounted make sure the pan is made with the proper allowances for the thickness of the leather and felt (I usually cover the bottom of the seat with felt), otherwise the mounts and such may not line up. If the seat is to be tooled, make sure you mark a centerline or at least some reference marks on both the seat and the under side of the leather to aid in centering your design. Once the glue grabs, you'll have a hard time pulling it apart without ruining the padding at least. Don't forget to checkout Beeza's tut: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8277 tons of good info. Good luck with the seat, have fun. I hope this helps. John

I've done some patterns by covering the object with plastic wrap, then, packing tape over that. Draw out your pattern with a sharpie, cut the whole thing away from the tank. Next, trim out the pattern. The hard part will be figuring out how to cut the curves to make a flat pattern so that the seams will look good on the finished product. hope this helps. John

The modeling tool will work,I believe thats what its for, but be mindful of the back edge it will leave marks in your beveled edge if you pry against it. I made mine more like the Jeff Moseby ones. You could modify the tandy modeler, or just use it as is if you like the way it works. John

Hokka, As a finish I usually use Pecards, Aussie wax or neutral shoe polish. I use my hands to apply it and rub it in pretty well and end up with some black on my fingertips, so, yes I guess it is normal. when the final finish is dry be sure to buff it again.

I made my own from some old screwdrivers. Stainless steel rod of whatever diameter you need would also work. pick up some flea market hafts and you're done. John

Maybe so. I guess I meant stropping, not sharpening. But still, I strop it before use and then if I cut about 18" of 6/7 oz, It starts having trouble and needs to be stropped again. I use a poly cutting board, if that makes a difference. Sorry about the hijack. John

Check Ebay. I bought the Al Stolman brand from Tandy for about $35, I think, but I wouldn't recommend it. It doesn't hold an edge very well at all, I seem to spend as much time sharpening it as cutting with it. John

I agree, bob

I did some searching but couldn't find the answer I was looking for. I was thinking about getting a bench top rivet press to achieve some consistency in my riveting. Do these things work well for setting a good quality brass tubular rivet? I see used ones on ebay all the time, is there a certain brand or type I should look for? Any advice for purchasing a used one as far as telling if it still in usable condition? I appreciate any input, Thanks. John

What a great thread. It's interesting to learn how everyone has their own ways of doing things. One thing I wanted to mention that helped me a lot was Paul Burnett's free newsletter. Quite a bit of good info. http://paintingcow.com/content/index.php/publications/free_lesson_sign_up/ Hope this helps. John

I needed a filigree blade, so I picked up both a Tandy steel and a ceramic blade on Saturday. When I got home, I spent some time polishing each one, as Marlon talks about in his post. I have never used a ceramic blade (or a filigree blade for that matter) before, but I have to say that after trying both new, freshly polished blades for the past three days, I think the ceramic cuts much easier and smoother than the Tandy steel blade at least. The blade I have been using most frequently, lately, is a 1/2" hollow ground Barry King steel blade. Just my $.02. John

I've changed the color of a bag for someone only once before. I used deglazer, which you can purchase at Tandy, to remove any sealer or finish that might prevent the new dye from applying evenly. Then I applied the black oil dye and let it dry thoroughly. I apply as many coats as necessary for an even finish. Make sure to use oil dye, which is also available at Tandy. Once the dye has dried the real work begins, The bag must be buffed thoroughly, using several different clean cloths or towels. I use old tshirts and such, Keep buffing until the dye stops coming off on the cloth. this can take some time but, eventually, will happen. After this, I apply some type of flexible finish or sealer like super or satin shene, aussie wax or some other type of leather dressing. The materials will probably cost around $20. Along with the time it takes, it might be worth the money to pay someone to do it. I have only changed the color of a bag once, from brown to black, and I have not heard back that the dye had rubbed off. I do make plenty of black motorcycle seats using this method with no crocking whatsoever. Just be sure to use the oil dye and not the regular leather dye, which will rub off no matter what you do. I hope this helps and goodluck. John

I go see Ken in Chelmsford. It's about a 2 hr ride but its the closest to me. I have the full Tandy set of modelling spoons, I picked them up on Paul Burnett's recommendation in his news letter. I've been using them to practice. I think I might take a stab at making some stainless ones in the near future. Thanks again. John

Thank you Storm, I was looking for a reason to head to Tandy this weekend, I think that's the reason I need. I gave the customer a turnaround time of a month, so I have time to learn how to do it. John

I wasn't sure if this belongs in the figure carving thread or not, but I thought more folks might see it here. I make quite a few motorcycle seats a year, though most don't involve carving. I have been asked to do a seat with a pinup girl carved on it. I have been practicing for a few days now and I don't quite feel good about the face. I've been searching for any info that may have been already posted but haven't come up with anything specific. I have studied over the stuff I have found from Beeza, Hammerhead and ShirleyZ and was wondering (hoping) that someone might have some pointers or tips or something to help with getting the details of the face without it looking so "worked". I would appreciate any input. Thanks John