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mauifarrier

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Everything posted by mauifarrier

  1. From the album: 2011 Saddles & work

    Recently completed "bamboo" saddle Rawhide rigging Bork Brass rings Skirting & Latigo leather Bee Natural finishes Brass Conchos Inlaid padded Gel seat

    © © leatherworker.net

  2. From the album: 2011 Saddles & work

    Hawaiian style rigging, but dyed black to make it a little more interesting

    © © leatherworker.net

  3. From the album: 2011 Saddles & work

    Our local Makawao parade every fourth of july weekend. Great place to wear the latest handmade tack & equipment.

    © © leatherworker.net

  4. From the album: 2011 Saddles & work

    This is my "bamboo" themed Hawaiian saddle. Built for my big mare, a 16.1h Friesian. The deerhide chaps are made from two well matched yearling Axis deer.

    © © leatherworker.net

  5. Hi There, I recently made my first padded seat on my third saddle. I searched here and didn't find a whole lot either. I wanted to use Gel rather than foam. Bought high quality gel on ebay from a company that sells gel inserts for motorcycle seats. On ebay their seller name is "knoplace" I'm very happy with the material. Bought size small from them, and would recommend Medium to anyone else in order to make sure they had enough square inches to work with. Right now the medium size is $47.95 with free shipping. 1. are you still making a strainer and forming a seat and then adding foam, and shaping the foam? -I still used a strainer, formed my ground seat with layers of leather as usual. -Then I shaped my seat leather over it and let it dry. -Deciding where I wanted the padded insert, I cut a hole out of the seat piece. It was nerve wracking, because the seat piece is one of your largest leather pieces, cut from some of the best hide. You do not want to make a mistake and be searching for more skirting leather to start over. -The hole you cut for your padding will almost certainly spread open a little more. I then cut my gel insert, laid it in the "hole" in the seat. -Then from 4-5 oz latigo, I cut a piece that would cover the gel and be hand stitched into the seat leather 2. are you inlaying the padded seat leather or on laying? -my style was inlaid. -The style of saddle I was making required the option to disassemble it fairly easily. Very little glue or tacks are used in Hawaiian Saddles. They are held together with strings. So my gel insert simply sits (without adhesive) under my seat piece, and the seat leather is not glued down against the ground seat. Nevertheless, everything has stayed put and not shifted or migrated. In criticism of my own work, I "over-shaped" the edge of my latigo insert, and it is a bit too square at the edges. However, after many rides in the saddle I have had no pressure points, and absolutely love the high density gel. 3. would you post some pictures and go in to some detail as to your method of doing a padded seat. If you click on this link to my webpage, You'll see all my photos of the process: http://www.mauifries...boo_Saddle.html
  6. Leather carving, saddle making. My own "hawaiian style" designs.
  7. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    My Veterinarian does some leather work and braiding. He made the wooden frame for these panniers, I supplied four tanned hair on deer hides to cover them, and my payment was a home made splitter. Both of us were happy, and the project looks great.

    © © leatherworker.net

  8. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Bull Riding Chaps for 8 year old His name is Blaize

    © © leatherworker.net

  9. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Trophy Halters Bronc Noseband on Weaver Halter Barrel Racing Prizes

    © © leatherworker.net

  10. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Escher Style Horsehead belt with forged horse shoe belt buckle

    © © leatherworker.net

  11. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    A Baties Wade bought on ebay for practice in braiding the hawaiian rigging. Bork Rings. Here you can see the step where the braids finish drying under tension from a car jack

    © © leatherworker.net

  12. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Close up of an axis deer dorsal stripe belt. When you use the dorsal stripe from the hide, you have two book matched pieces that are still useful for deerhide chaps.

    © © leatherworker.net

  13. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Axis Deer rawhide makes for thin strong strands with minimal bulk and pretty lines. Bork Rings. I decorate all my horn caps and put a rawhide rim around the edge. Excess of strands has yet to be trimmed.

    © © leatherworker.net

  14. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Curious George is modeling a pair of Axis Deer chaps Infant Size. These will fit a youngster until they are about three years old, and will be "chinks" by then. The hide was from a two month old deer shot by accident as it hid behind an adult. Nothing goes to waste. This hide was a soft and fine as a rabbit pelt/

    © © leatherworker.net

  15. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    I was fortunate enough to photograph this hand carved Marquesan saddle. It is usually on display as a piece of artwork in the owner's home.

    © © leatherworker.net

  16. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Plumeria Spur Straps

    © © leatherworker.net

  17. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Makawao Paniolo Parade 2010

    © © Ailina

  18. Wow! I took a moment to cruise your site, (www.rodnikkel.com) and immediately started reading all the detail you offer about how you build your trees. What a FANTASTIC website and amazing craftmanship. I will continue to browse and drool at your site. Found you in the forum because of your post about 1/2 size and or miniature trees. Thank you for responding. Best wishes to you and your treemaking business. I can only hope to be a customer someday in 2010 or 2011. Aloha from Hawaii, Gretchen Cardoso
  19. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Some of the features...15" seat Visalia tree Arizona Bars Plumeria Flower tooling Pre-turned Stirrups with California Cuff Seat "Tin" (ground seat) Tooled Horn Cap Mule Hide horn wrap Bork Hardware Stainless Rigging Rings Al Stohlman stainless Conchos

    © © G. Cardoso

  20. Aloha from Maui, I got a chance to meet Pete last september in Waimea for the hawaiian saddle conference. At that point, I had practiced the rigging, but hadn't completed my first hawaiian saddle yet. Pete sure did a nice tribute to hawaiian saddles. Thanks for sharing those photos. I am really glad to get my hands on anything Pete writes. His saddle fit book is great, and he has a lot of wisdom to share in other articles like how to price your work (in shoptalk 2009). There is very little out there on the internet about hawaiian saddles. I hope to help change that, and I'm glad to see Pete sharing and contributing too. Mahalo, Gretchen Cardoso www.mauifriesian.com
  21. Howzit Willie Joe. This is Gretchen Cardoso over on Maui. I am a beginner to the leatherwork and saddlemaking, but am crazy about hawaiian saddles. After making chaps for Ashley Borsum (Miss Rodeo hawaii 2009) I just finished my second saddle in time for this weekend's Upcountry Fair on Maui. I am better at tooling, than at braiding the awe'awe, but I will keep practicing. Nice to see another hawaiian on the forum. Aloha, Gretchen www.mauifriesian.com
  22. Aloha from hawaii, I am fairly new to leatherwork also, but have a few big projects under my belt. (A few of them are posted to my profile.) Here are the products I've been very happy with: Bee Natural's line of products... Saddle oil with fungicides. This goes into the leather after tooling & before dyeing. Up to three coats, let sit overnight. This will soften your leather somewhat. Sheridan Resist and finish. Use as a resist or finish, it is acrylic and leaves a shine on the surface. Bee Natural's leather finish. This is a liquid beeswax based leather finish that you apply last. Rub on, let dry, then buff with a cotton cloth. Shines, protects, and smells great. You may know this already, but I would venture a guess the leather felt stiff in part because it hadn't been oiled. Water stiffens leather (once dry), and oil softens it. Experiment with scrap, but if you are using veg-tanned leather and tooling it, it will be quite stiff unless you oil it a bit. But use caution, the oil darkens the leather. If I make a belt and want it to stay a pale as possible, I use very little oil. Also, too much oil can over-soften the leather, and creates an undesirable effect. Best of luck! Gretchen
  23. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Detail on bridle was so fine, I used an x-acto blade instead of my swivel knife.

    © © G. Cardoso

  24. From the album: miscellaneous projects

    Designed by and made for Miss Rodeo Hawaii 2009, Ashley Borsum (Pictured in photo) Details: Hibiscus and Palaka (plaid) tooling, 48 Cattle Brands of the Ranches in Hawaii, Axis Deer Hair-on Hide, State of Hawaii back piece. Call me ambitious or a fool, but this was my first leatherwork project, and first pair of chaps. Took more time than a hawaiian saddle!

    © © G. Cardoso

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