steve mason
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CAMPBELL LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR SALE
Machine is located in High River, Alberta, Canada
-Asking $4200 in Canadian funds (at today’s Canadian/ US exchange rate $2814 in US funds)
-This Campbell lockstitch came from the GS Garcia shop in Salinas, California. The machine is on the original stand with a clutch motor. It sews a nice, tight stitch. See photos and link to You-tube video of the machine stitching. https://youtu.be/tcZt6BzKUTM
Here is a detailed list of the parts and accessories that are included:
- two (2) rear arch covers: SR-89 and SR-7
- one (1) Adjustable work gauge and stand: SR-254
- one (1) Bobbin winder: SR-258
- one (1) Wax pot for Bobbin winder: SR-259
- two (2) bobbins
- one (1) spare shuttle: SR-99
- one (1) shuttle: S514
- thirteen (13) assorted throat plates for the S-7 rear arch cover
- eleven (11) assorted throat plates for the S-89 rear arch cover (including one plate S-956A for box work and one channel throat plate SR-206A)
- one (1) presser foot with knife: SR-718
- two (2) presser feet: SR-629
- two (2) presser feet: SR-630
- eleven (11) presser feet to define stitches: SR-633. Includes; one 5-SPI, two 6-SPI, one 7-SPI, four 8-SPI, two 9-SPI, one 10-SPI.
-seven (7) holders for presser feet: SR-637
-one (1) coil spring for bobbin: CHS-708 *NEW*
-two (2) thread tube tension springs: CHS-979 *NEW*
-four (4) thread strippers for wax pot: CHS-795 *NEW*
-one (1) wrench: SR-750 *NEW*
-one (1) wire hook: SR-745 *NEW*
-one (1) bobbin screw driver: SR-1057
-one (1) Campbell lockstitch manual
- Awls & needles *NEW*. Includes; eight (8) #2 ½ awls, ten (10) #2 awls, ten (10)#2 needles, nine (9) #1 ½ needles.
- OLD STOCK Awls: Includes; nine (9) assorted 00 & 0 awls, five (5) #1 awls, nineteen (19) #1 ½ awls, twenty-four (24) #2 awls, four (4) #2 ½ awls, twenty-one (21) #3 awls, sixteen (16) #5 awls..
- OLD STOCK Needles: Includes; twenty-seven (27) #1 needles, thirty-two (32) #1 ½ needles, forty-two (42) #2 needles, two (2) #2 ½ needles, four (4) # 3 ½ needles
-one(1) quart of Campbell’s thread lubricator
-one (1)quart of Sellari’s stitching wax
-includes a large assortment of spare springs, screws, wrenches and other parts. (See photo)
-Note: New awl bar and needle bar nut have been installed.
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brent;if you don't mind when you get the new buckles in could you send me a photo of them.
thanks much, Steve
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I think the stamp you are looking for is the hamley "prairie rose" which is a 5 petel flower, the hamley "daisy" has more petels on it, I would have to check my old catalogs to confirm how many.
For some reason this is a common mistake, most folks call the prairie rose the daisy, even though in the hamley catalogs they are two different saddles.
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In my opinion use 100% neatsfoot oil, then tan cote. Olive oil is for salads.
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This is a spec saddle built to go to the Red Bluff Bull Sale
nice work my friend!! I hope you get it sold at the show.
is that a 3B? nice looking wood.
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I do not have a cobra so take my advise with a grain of salt.
from looking at your video at the 1.51 second mark, your take up spring looks like it is set to high, try lower the the spring and see what happens.
Steve
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Here are some of Elton's tools in action.
The following tools were made by Elton: flower center, wiggler on the leafs, leaf liner, veiner used on the stickers, and I used a maul by Elton for the stamping.
Give him a try, he is building some real nice tools.
Steve
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I will second the recommendation for caledon leather, they have a great assortment of leather from lightwieght lining leather, to skirting leather, from d grade to #1 grade, chap leather, latigo, shearling etc. A good assortment of hardware and fiebings product. barry king and watt tools. give them a call.
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Denise here. Wondering if the saddle makers can help answer a couple questions for me to expand my knowledge base about riggings - Can you post pictures or drawings of the different styles of rigging, and tell me why people choose to use one type over the other. Not trying to start any wars here. I know they are all strong enough and all have their place. But are there specific events that prefer one type and why? Are there places where a specific rigging type doesn't work well? Doing a bit of research here and figured I should ask the experts - the people who build them!
Denise, here is a good article by Chuck Stormes from the eclectic horseman website.
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the saddle in the photo is a saddle that I made, the lace I used there is gigantic austrailian field mouse. I do not buy kangaroo lace, I cut and bevel the string myself. you can also use latigo lace, I split it down for this purpose.
Steve
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Real nice rig Darc.
very clean nice lines, and great job on the carving.
I like the tree, it sure looks like a Swade.
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Casey
I think chinks will be the most widely used and made style out there for all parts of the country. They can sure be made to fit what your trying to do I think. For me if I was to compete I would like to make chinks because I can sell them about any where to anyone. I would need a outlet for what ever I make. I really like the idea of one kind or style.
Mark
Chinks are the most used chap in this part of the world, then shotguns and few old timers still using batwings, (I'm talking about working cowboys here) then you have the cutters and rodeo chaps etc. If you have a batwing only there would be no chance that I would enter cause it would take me a long time to sell a pair of batwings.
I would like to see an open chap catagory, nice work is nice work IMO, if a judge is properly qualified and not bias, he or she should leave the style preferance out of their judging and only judge on the quality of craftmanship, design and artistic abillity etc. the style of the chap should have no bearing on the outcome of the winners. In the saddle catagory they do not have to make only a wade with square skirts etc, so don't hold everyone back on their chap design.
My two cents
Steve
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Are there two different catagories? 101-110 and 111-115?
when I try to vote only once as asked to I get an error telling me to vote on each question.
ps; are you going to post the saddle photos also?
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Howdy;
I just picked up a plough gauge this weekend and I do not know of the maker, just wondering if anyone here knows any history on the maker and his tools. the gauge is marked "Thomas Adams" see attached photo.
thanks much for the info.
Steve
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IMO the rivet holes are one of the main reasons I prefer harwood hardware over any others, first the holes are made for #8 rivets not #9's like the other company's are. they the holes are even from side to side on the flat plate riggin hardware, this make gettin my riggins even an easier process since I can mark the holes and one side and just transfer the pattern to the other side. if the holes are off a little I have to make adjustments that takes extra time and messing about.
I use the #19 rivet in dees, on the hardwoods the rivet tab is recessed on both sides so the tab is in the middle of the dee not on the bottom side like the others. this creates less bulk, (minor differance but it is a differance)
then some of the other comapanys use brass not maganese bronze, brass will wear much faster that maganese bronze will. Borks use maganese bronze also.
With the harwood hardware I simply save some time, I don't have to do any polish clean up, I don't have to clean up the edges at all and the rivet holes are consitent from plate to plate. Just my two cent's worth. bork hardware works fine, the harwood seems a little more refined is all.
ps; the borks are great people, as is Chris cheany
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I hope the customer ropes left handed, cause if he is not, he better be stronger that the critter he ropes or that hornwrap will come undone.
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I hope the customer ropes left handed, cause if he is not he better be stronger that the critter he ropes.
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Howdy;
I have a question for you machine experts if you don't mind.
I am wondering the differance between the pfaff 145, 545, 1245.
As far as I understand the 1245 is a newer model of the 545 with some minor changes to the bobbin winder, not sure about the 145, is it the same as the 545 but with a smaller bobbin? Are all three machines high lift with the 190 needle system?
thanks much
steve
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Just wondering if anyone knows who the winners were from the Kamloops cowwboy festival saddle show?
and if they might have some photos
Steve
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Howdy;
I have recently got some tools from Northern lights tools, Elton Joorisity is the maker of these fine tools.
He is doing some very nice work, here is a photo of a few tools he has made, some leaf liners, smooth bevelers, pear shader, veiners and a maul. If you are looking for some new stamping tools I would reccomend Elton's tools highly.
Steve
ps; I have no interest in northern light tools, I am just recommending some good tools and blowing some smoke up a friends ass. lol
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Howdy,
I am in desperate need of a part for my sewing machine, I am in the middle of 11 pair of chaps and I have broke the take up spring somehow, so I am kinda screwed right now.
My machine is a Nakajima DDN-738, I need a new take up spring part # 2014.
here is a scan of the part.
If anyone can help me please PM me, email me, flynsaddle at shaw.ca or phone me, 403-615-4616.
Thanks much
Steve
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Festus, sorry for hi-jacking your thread, but maybe you've already found your answers..?
AndyKnight, since you are commenting on one of my first saddles/trees (I have not built the tree) that is used on the farm as a "hobby saddle", what knots are you reffering to?
These?
They are hardly not enough to compromise the strength of the tree, are they?
The other marks on the (unused) tree are, as you surely know, miscolorings from the nails that were used to attach the original rawhide..
I'm sure you guys are interested in selling a new tree,
but why not instead discuss the reason for putting on a high cantle on the "wade saddles"? It's mostly for looks, right? Maybe comfort? I'd say that a good and secure rider doesn't need a high cantle to feel secure in the saddle.. Hope you don't mind me picking on what you are writing, I just enjoy a discussion..
Rik
As far as I know Andy does not sell the trees he makes, they are for his own use, I am a saddle maker so I am not trying to sell trees. I was trying to say that raising a cantle 2" is not a practical thing to do, there is no way that the bondo will stay in place if you get is any kind of a wreck, and you will need to put in new ground work, and a new top seat and cantle back and cantle bind, this is just not a practical thing to do, the cost of these repairs are not worth it, since you will end up with an inferior product. It just does not make sense to do this.
In regards to your comments about "wade saddles" they can have any cantle height or width you would like to order, the cantle and swell style have nothing do with each other. Some customers will order a cantle for looks, comfort or whatever reason they have for wanting a cantle high or low, the reasons are their own and every customer will have his own reason for why he likes his cantle the way he likes it, personal preferance.
this thread has gone a long ways from where it started, back the topic. to raise a cantle 2",,, don't do it IMO.
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sorry guys, hope you don't take offence to this but there is one way to increase the cantle height 2" that will last over time and use, get a new tree made!!!
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I've been wanting to try do inlays on some things do you have any pictures of the ones you did ? Plus it's always nice to see pictures of a hand built saddle.
Campbell Lockstitch Machine For Sale
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SOLD