hobageeba

Hi guys, I'm trying to get a grasp on the different flesh side finishes there are but unfortunately, Wicket & Craig doesn't supply flesh-side finish samples (Hermann Oak doesn't seem to have any info). I've done some google searching and can't seem to come up with any good pictures of the different finishes out there so I'm wondering if any of you have pictures and/or experiences you could share. W&C offers stirrup, pasted, and buffed flesh. From what I've gathered, buffed flesh is good if you want a slightly softer, fuzzier finish than the normal post-split flesh-side, stirrup flesh is lacquered (really curious to know what this is like) and pasted flesh is sort of similar to if you were to apply gum trag and rub it in to the flesh-side.... Let me know your thoughts or even better lets see some pics!

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I've put emails in with them all. Also, just FYI, a friend pointed me to this guy operating out of Hong Kong and charging around $32+$5 shipping for a brass stamp up to 10 square cm of area. Pretty insane deal. http://www.etsy.com/listing/81882106/custom-leather-stamp-for-stamping Also excited that Black River Laser has custom template cutting services! I've been looking for something like that. Thanks!

Hey guys, I need a source for getting stamps made for small run projects and whatnot. I've used infinity stamps before and they make a quality product, but they're really pricey. I've seen pictures of what looks like a metal plate glued to wood blocks for stamps (picture attached). I'm assuming this would be a lot cheaper than infinity's solid metal blocks. Let me know if anyone has a source! Thanks a lot.

PM sent. Please get back to me ASAP! Thanks!

Oh right, sorry. I'm talking about the Texas Custom Dies clicker. There's literally no pictures on the site, except for one that comes up on the slideshow on the homepage: http://www.texascustomdies.com/

Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone out there actually owns or has used one of these clicker presses. There's basically no info or pictures on their site. I know you can do the conversion yourself, but at $450, it might be worth not having to sort it all out. Just wanna hear if anyone has any experience or info on these. Thanks!

PM sent

Was this the standard or premium package? Does the sale include any of the accessories? Would you ship?

Hi there, Is this a walking foot machine? Do you know up to what thread size it will take? Would you ship?

Holy smokes, that's a whole lot more than just the red spots!! I guess hitting all these spots becomes second nature after you've done it for a while. Thanks for addressing the bobbin issue...I definitely had it going the wrong way!

Thank you so much! I'll definitely try that. I seriously appreciate your guys' time and help. So moving on with some more complete newbie questions: • Still not sure which is the correct way for the bobbin to go in - Should it spin clockwise or counter-clockwise? • When I oil, do I just give a few drops each time? Should I be hitting any other spots other than the spots market with red and the felt pad? • On the topic of oiling - there's a big hole on the right side of the machine (the only hole marked with red on the right side) that's sort of a chasm into the machine...not sure what I'm supposed to be hitting with oil there. Thanks!

Thanks Bob, PM sent. Can anyone tell me which way the bobbin's supposed to go in?

Thanks a ton guys! Gonna go through this one by one... Just tried that and it seems better. Still pretty hard to pull though...is that just the nature of the thicker thread? The cup stands seemed wrong to me...ha. Will definitely fix it. I've seen pics of it both ways. The manual reads "Pass thread in weaving fashion through the three holes in guide.." I took that to mean up and down. Am currently trying it your way. Upon further inspection, it was moving it. Just a small amount so I didn't notice before. It could probably push it out a little further. I think I may need to do a little of both of this as it is pushing, but not enough. As for loosening the bobbin tension...I can't figure out for the life of me how to do this from what the manual describes. Is one of these the screw/s you're supposed to adjust? If so, mine are near impossible to get to and adjust. Does it matter which one? Is this what you refer to as the bobbing spring? And while we're at it, do you seat the bobbin so it spins counterclockwise like this: or clockwise like this: Is this the set screw you're referring to? Thanks so much! Thanks for the reply Bob. The picture didn't make it on your post?....

Hey Guys, I'm a new owner of a Consew 226R-1 and I need some help getting it all setup and sussing some problems out. I'm completely new to sewing machines (well, except for really cheap home machines) and am not the most mechanically inclined so please be patient with me. I spoke on the phone with Bob from Toledo Sewing Machines a bit today, who I bought a servo motor off, but I didn't want to bug him too much so I'm hoping some of you out there could give me a hand. Any help or suggestions whatsoever would be hugely appreciated. Thanks! I have a million and one questions but I'm going to try and keep this concise and post a couple questions/problems at a time. • One of the most noticeable problems I'm having is that after switching to 138 thread, the top thread won't manually feed when I try to pull on the thread without me giving it some slack by hand first. By that, I mean, I have to tug on the thread right after the first post it threads through to give it slack, then pull from where it exits the needle. There doesn't seem to be any excessive tension anywhere, it just seems to be a cumulative effect. This leads me to wonder if I'm threading it wrong, which by reading the manual and looking at all the comparative pictures and youtube videos I can find, it seems I'm doing it right. • One thing Bob mentioned is that the tension discs may not be disengaging, which is actually true, but even with the tension discs screwed all the way loose so there's no tension on the thread, I still can't pull the thread from the needle. • Obviously, another concern is fixing the tension discs. I do see that there's a metal plate on the back that pushes against a spring to disengage the threads, but I don't see any mechanism that would push the plate to disengage. Hmmm... I'll attach some pictures of the whole setup as well as details of how I'm threading it. I am very likely screwing something up somewhere so let me know if you see something fishy. Thank you! The whole setup: Threading detail:

Point taken, thanks!

Thanks guys. I've spoken to both people, and now I'm between the Consew with little to no wiggle room on the price at $500, and the Singer 78-1 for $275 with wiggle room. Both are about an hour and a half from me in opposite directions so there's no going-just-to-check-it-out, or even being able to check out both machines on the same trip. Hard call because I could get the Singer for at least half the price of the Consew, but I'm leaning toward the Consew just because I want something that I'm not going to feel the need to upgrade further down the line. Any thoughts/advice would be super appreciated! Thanks. I think I'm hi-jacking my own thread....

Awesome, very pertinent info. Thank you! A Consew 226R-1 just came up too. Do you have any suggestions between that or the Singer 78 (for about half the price)?

Anyone know anything about this machine? There's one on Craigslist near me and I can't find a lick of info anywhere on the internet. I'm looking to do light to medium weight leather work—probably around 2, maybe 3 layers at times, of 4-5 oz leather. Here's the ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/art/2831364931.html

Thanks a lot Tom. I will definitely bring some different leathers I tend to sew with a machine. I didn't realize the Tippmann Boss doesn't utilize feed dogs on the underside...makes me feel a little better about this machine.

Hi guys, I have an opportunity to pick up a 78-1 and have done some extensive googling about the machine. There's a small handful of posts on here about it (and the 78-3) and the reviews seem positive, but my main concern is the lack of feed dogs. To be honest, I've been hand stitching and have very limited machine experience, but the small amount of negative feedback I've seen/gotten about the machine, is that it's not a true compound walking foot. It seems like this is also what people tend to like about it—no marks from the feed dogs, easier to maneuver, etc—but I just wanted to see if I could get any more feedback on the lack of feed dogs and the machine in general. Oh, and I'll be doing light to medium leather work on it. Probably sewing mostly 2 (possibly 3 at times) layers of 4-5 oz leather—veg tan, eng bridle, chrome tanned—for bags, wallets, cases, etc. No heavy holster or saddle work. I'll be going to check it out as early as tomorrow (2/6) so any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Yeah, checked with Ohio Travel Bag, they didn't have anything like it. I've actually thought about the Chicago screw thing but didn't get as far as figuring out the washer thing—that's a great idea, thanks! I may have to try that in the end if I'm not able to source this elusive piece of hardware!

I called Beiler and got the catalog today. Unfortunately, that part looks like the exact same thing as the Sam Browne button stud available through Tandy and a bunch of other places. The key to this is that I'm looking for a flatter stud like the one pictured above. Thanks though! Any other suggestions??

Genius. I don't see a site so I'll give them a call and see if I can request a catalog. Many thanks!!

Awesome, thanks a lot for the suggestion! I searched around quite a bit and the closest thing I found was these saber belt studs: I've seen pictures of the bracelet I posted above and it clearly has a backing, just like you would on a Sam Brown button stud from Tandy, and is affixed to one end. With the saber belt studs, I gather just from looking at the picture that you'd have to punch/cut holes/slits on either end and slip it in instead of having it fixed. The saber belt studs could work but I'd love to source that is fixed. Any other suggestions?

Hey all, I've searched every place I know and more and still can't seem to find a button post with a flatter head than the normally bulbous head. I'm using it for a bracelet so would like to have it be not so obtrusive. This is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for: Any tips/leads would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!