whinewine
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Posts posted by whinewine
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All,
I need help with laying out spots. Just trying to eyeball where the next spot goes is not working for me.
I'm trying to layout your basic decorative shapes like diamonds and circles... or even a straight row of spots, but my spacing and alignment is crap.
I'm a noob at this so any tips or advice(no matter how basic) is most appreciated. Also, is there a good tool to mark where to punch or slice the slots for the prongs of the spots?
Regards, from Phoenix,
Lars
Lars,
Tandy has (had?) a craftaid for laying out grids & one for laying out bling/spots. Your nearest tandy should be able to help you & maybe show you how if you're close enough to stop.
russ
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If you check the bid history, you will notice the two main doofuses,
o***o & y***i , consistently fought to the death 
once the bid hit $25 
. Once they started the 'gottahaveit/gottahaveit/gotta/gotta/gotta/nomatterwhat', the stupidity dam broke over these two 
and tweedledumb & tweedledumber drowned. 
russ
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Also, Bo:
something to be aware of... I don't know how long ago you got the purple dye (Tandy eco-flo?), but I believe it was last year that Tandy removed ALL their purple dye because it would turn to grey. It had to be reformulated so it wouldn't deteriorate. The local tandy store was selling theirs for about 50 cents or $1 a bottle just to get rid of it & telling their customers why.
Btw, since eco flo IS water based, water applied with a sponge should help smooth out/weaken the color, so you can then use a preval sprayer as Luke says.
I don't really know how effective deglazer is with water based stuff. You might use oxalic acid to bleach it lighter before use of the preval sprayer (or, like some people here say, use lemon juice?)
russ
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Russ, apologies I misunderstood your question.
As an old tool enthusiast I was interested to hear that Barnsley stock had started to re-appear so I phoned Woodware Repetitions (owned by the Barnsley brothers) and spoke to a delightful lady who told me that George Barnsley tools are back in production again, but almost all the stock that is appearing now is the last of the old Barnsley stock that was purchased from the liquidator when George Barnsley closed its doors. I believe they found a warehouse full of finished tools and a mass of spares.
So, to answer your question, the stock you are seeing for sale in the US is old (and almost certainly genuine) Barnsley stock purchased by an American tool dealer direct from Woodware Repetitions and re-sold. I was assured the Barnsley tools always used good steel!
Hope this helps,
Ray
Thank you, Ray. This helps. This is the info I was looking for.
russ
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I'm always on the lookout for old Barnsley and Dixon tools and picked up a superb pair of Barnsley saddler's nippers this weekend. On a personal level, I rate Dixon slightly higher than Barnsley, but they are both extremely fine makers.
Ray
Ray,
I'm asking about the current (not older) Barnsley stuff being offered- I know that the old Barnsley stuff was/is very good. [it's like saying that Osborne stuff is good because their old tools were decent- we all know that the new Osbornes don't use as good a steel as what is in the older tools]. So when I see all this plethora of Barnsley stuff on ebay right now, I'm just sceptical...
So, to reiterate: does anyone have knowledge of the stuff currently being marketed under the Barnsley name? Has anyone actually purchased something from the seller & compared it to an original Barnsley?
russ
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I feel your frustration. I am attempting a pair of moccaisons with my chap scrap. Driving me nuts.
thanks for your help guys, it really is driving me nuts, I can't seem to get the tongue to balance /sit straight hmm,Oscarb the second website is the pattern that I'm following, bt reworded a little I am now on tongue number 8, solved the size problem though, thanks. My partner has told me to put it in a bag and come back to it when I am less frustrated.... they are for her for easter, though she doesn't know it yet. oh well.
I know what you're going through. I have a pair of Tandy's Plainsman Boot Pattern mocs that I started about 4 years ago & I've not been able to fit the bottoms to the tops successfully yet. I thought it was just me. One of these days I'll try again, now that I know others have the same problem...
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Recently,I am seeing a lot of 'Barnsley' tools being advertised on ebay- mostly awls of various kinds, a round knife... Are they any good (as in Bob Douglas quality), or a waste of money (I'm not in the market for awls or head knives, so I have no axe to grind [no pun intended, btw] one way or another, but I'm just curious as to their overall quality.)
Or are they in realm of the many 'tools' on ebay listed with key words like "sweet", "a new beauty", "a real beauty", etc...?
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hello everyone
curious,,,,, would anyone mind elaborating on the entire process of how one should go about cleaning leather with this solution?
salutations
Crissy:
it's primarily a bleach (as opposed to a cleaner) & helps lighten leather a bit (veg-tan), but it will NOT turn it white, nor will it help a lot with sun-struck leather to a tremendous degree, but it may help even out the contrast somewhat. It does help bleach out some stains. I don't use it a lot, as I feel it's unnecessary for most projects. It may also help remove any surface oils that may screw up dyeing. If you really want to be sure, I'd use the oxalic acid, let it dry & then go over it with deglazer.
As far as application, I would simply wipe with a sponge that's been dipped in it.
russ
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I finally found my Ruby Blade that i thought was gone...
If one of you fine Folks have re-attached one before WHAT TYPE OF SUPER GLUE DID YOU USE?
Thank you in advance.
Luke,
I've not had to do that, but I have 2 suggestions:
1] go to a jeweler friend & have him re-attach it- he's got the proper jigs & stuff to line it up precisely (but you might take along some super glue- after all, they generally don't glue stuff down) or,
2] use gel super glue- it doesn't run & fills the gaps that might exist between the 2 surfaces & therefore makes a better bond than the thin, runny stuff.
russ
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I'm looking for a 2 or 3-D stamp of a shamrock (3-leaf clover). Does anyone know of a manufacturer that has one?
Thanks,
Andrew
www.boxalarmleather.com
While it's not a 3d stamp, Brenda at Laser Creations can make you one up in Delrin, She does a lot of maker stamps for the members here & she'll do custom work to your specifications, all for about $35 + shipping. I doubt that you could find a machinist who would make a 3d up for less...
russ
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I'm looking for a Chevy or Chevrolet 2/3d Stamp, perhaps even Dodge or Ford.
I saw a belt a couple of weeks ago that had the Chevy Plus sign insignia on it, so I thought I might search for one.
I'm only a ( just getting started) want-a-bee hobbyist that enjoys making things for myself, friends & family.
Thanks !
Arley:
I don't know about 2d or 3d stamps, but there are a lot of Baron stamps floating around out there right now. Baron went out of business years ago & the entire inventory was put up and sold a few months ago. If you check ebay, you'll find lots & lots of Baron stamps of all kinds: animals, cars/car insignias/car logos, smiley faces, etc... Some of the asking prices are outrageous, some are reasonable, depending on the dealer selling them, so it pays to check & not bid on the first ones you come across.
My suggestion is to first call Kevin at Springfield Leather (look for their banner at the top of the pages) & ask there before going anywhere else. They have many more things that are not listed in their catalog or on their website, mostly because of small quantities or odd lots or odds and ends. They used to have some of these car stamps, & maybe they still have a few somewhere there. If you speak to Emma, she can also help you. Their prices will be incredibly reasonable, if they have them. Good luck.
russ
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Travis: I got mine at the local Sherwin-Williams Paint store. It is a Savogran(Sp?) product, so a full service paint store should carry it, or be able to get it for you. It lasts forever because you use so little.
You won't find it at Lowes or Home Depot, but you might find it at your local corner hardware store.
Oh, yeah- as Barra says, it's listed as 'wood bleach'.
russ
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You also have Tandy in Delmont, PA (800-246-8813). Talk to Deb Collins- she's the manager there. You can go straight down I-79 & pick up Rte 22 East into Delmont -she's located in Salem Plaza along 22. Call to see if she has what you need. I don't know if there is any place along the Lakes corridor that's any closer than Delmont. Wickett & Craig is in Curwensville, Pa. If you can pick up Rte 36 (which starts somewhere southeast of Erie- look it up in your rand-mcnally) & follow it till it intersects I-80 at Brookville, then take 80 to the Clearfield (or Curwensville) exit. 36 goes on a diagonal, so you cut some time & a lot of mileage off by doing that.
russ
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Russ, were you the winning bidder?? LOL
No, Tim. I've never gone that high on stupidity, nor even come close. But I've certainly done my share on the low end (so I guess that fits into quantity, not quality of stupidity). I now have learned to try to research first
, rather than to react 
.russ
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Assuming that there wasn't any shilling going on, and assuming that everything was on the up-and-up, you can't fault the seller. Each and everyone of us would praise the buyer(s)' naivete and stupidity all the way to the bank, if we were in that seller's shoes.(And no seller is going to stop an auction to say, 'hey dummy, you're bidding too much for this widget, you can get the same thing at Hidecrafter for $7.99, and for $4.99 at...') And yes, I'm sure that there is not one of us on this site who hasn't done exactly the same stupid thing ("gotta have it gotta have it now no matter what, gotta outbid everyone else, gotta gotta gotta it's the only one out there in existence...
"). What's the saying, Caveat Emptor... Let the Buyer Beware...? 
russ
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Beautiful!
TimD is closer to your part of the State, I'm at the other end (closer to Penn State). It's good to see other PA leathercrafters here!
russ
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Thank you. I know that this is not true damascus- I do have a true damascus dagger blade I got from India to build a custom dagger (mild steel, mind you, but still real damascus, and it's meant for show, not for work). Tandy's damascus blades are etched. You can tell by the look that they are not fold-weld-forged as real damascus are. Still, they do look cool. However, I was more concerned about how they would compare, steel quality-wise & blade quality-wise, to the range of blades out there, from my W. Rose down to the cheapy imports. Googling the internet, I noticed that many expensive chefs knives are made by sandwiching a very high carbon steel between layers of SUS 410, which is a (apparently a much lower and) softer carbon stainless steel. I'm not exactly sure what the advantage of that is as far as sharpening & keeping an edge (maybe it has to do with ease of sharpening?- I don't know & if someone can explain it, it would be appreciated here), but the damascus round knife is not a sandwich- it's totally made of SUS 410. So is there any advantage to something made totally of this?
Any blade makers here that can give insight into these considerations?
Again, thanks for the comments. I've decided to keep my money for higher quality merchandise.
russ
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Has anyone used Tandy's new offering, the 'Damascus' round knife yet? I'm wondering about the quality of the steel (sus410- or somesuch) used in this knife. How does it compare to the W. Rose knives of old, the modern osbornes & other modern steels? Do they keep an edge well?
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It just came across the web: craftool half price, 50% 1 item, etc, etc. Thanks. I didn't see anything about 40% off entire purchase, though.
russ
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Does anyone know if Tandy will have a Black Friday sale this year? Someone said yes, but I haven't seen anything definitive yet, so I'm wondering...
russ
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@whinewine, Is it some sort of latex paint that you use, please can you advise on a brand or source? Is it easy to remove once its been used as a mask?
Thanks.
Odin:
it is NOT a latex paint, it is a liquid rubber used to make molds of things to be cast in plaster, or resin, etc. It can be painted on with a small brush, and when dry, antiques, dyes, highlighter, all-in-ones, etc can be carefully applied over it (be especially careful with dyes, as they can migrate underneath the latex if not blotted up immediately after being sprayed on). After everything else is dry, the latex can be rolled off with your fingers. I bought mine at a store that specializes in model trains. I don't remember the name, because I dropped the container & the lid shattered upon impact, so I transferred what I could salvage into another (unmarked) jar. I believe it is Citizen Kate on this site who has a tutorial about using liquid latex as a resist. The advantage is that, if properly applied, will leave whatever is underneath the same color as the original leather, unlike other resists, like Tandy's Blockout, which are NOT effective blocking out spirit dyes (I don't know how effective it is with water based dyes- I haven't tried that). Tandy's Blockout will also pick up the colors of all-in-ones & highlighters, but at a much lighter shade.
Disadvantages of liquid latex: it is thick, so it is hard to apply over very narrow areas without getting it on the parts you don't want to cover; it generally takes several coats to completely cover; it has a distinct, strong ammonia smell (which is rough on the nose if you are working at close range); if it dries on the brush you're using, the brush is generally junked- use disposable brushes.
I hope this helps.
russ
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I'd like to get my logo made into a stamp to brand my products. My local leather shop said they could have the stamp made for me but it's look better if I dropped my pieces into them in bulk and they heat stamped them. My husband said I can just get a stamp made and heat it up and heat stamp them myself at home. [Does that make sense?]
Is that true?
Is there anywhere online where I can order custom stamps?
Ruthless,
I remember there was a soldering iron-type branding iron that was offered back in the'70s, early '80s... I think I remember seeing ads for them in the back of MIWL magazines from time to time- maybe they were marketed by Tandy? I don't know, but, at any rate, they are no longer offered, & I've never seen any offered on ebay (so maybe I just imagined all of that- too much sex, drugs & rocknroll? :brainbleach: )
Suggestion: If you could have someone make up a custom, threaded screw-on soldering iron tip for a higher wattage soldering, then you could have your own branding iron.
russ
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How did your Delrin stamp come out? Can you post a picture? I am researching getting a custom stamp made for my son's boy scout troop and I want to know if the plastic stamps are going to work well. How durable are they, in relation to a steel stamp? A nice steel stamp is 2-3 times the price.
Thanks
Brian
If I can jump in here, Brian, my son had 2 custom maker stamps made for us out of delrin from Brenda at laser Gift Creations. Do a search on this site & you'll find her. Incredibly tough stuff delrin is, and our stamps are incredibly detailed, with sharp, deep images & lettering
... and Brenda will help you design your stamp at no extra charge if you can't freehand the design you want. I think the price was $35 per stamp (and it's a relatively large stamp, too, so the price was great). 
Brenda tries her best to work with you. She's great!russ
Whoops, I missed Spence's post above: www.lasergiftcreations.com . Sorry, Spence- I should learn to read all the posts.
russ
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I just recently got a call from Colorado from a man with a very foreign accent ("hallowww, my name is [something banft??] & i call about your tires. You get price to ship me & call me back, OK?" I asked, why don't you buy tires there? & he replied, "I cannot get here."
:wtf: Well, the 2 tires in question are slightly used & mounted on used 13" rims off an old car I no longer own ('92 toyota tercel), & I just want to let the entire set go for $35. These tires are also commonly available new and any junkyard generally has 13" 4 bolt rims, even in Colorado, probably for just a few dollars apiece. It would cost probably in excess of about $100- $150+ to ship the tire/rim combos... Now they are listed on craigslist (what a bunch of creeps- soliciting sex & 'hey, my unemployed brother made $1 Million per second & so can you just email him at www.boyimamoron.com), but since craigslist has me listed anonomously I figured this didn't come from that source. Additionally, I have the tires listed on a local 'dial and deal' program which also has an internet listing & it does have my first name & phone # published, so that's where I figure this troll got my name & #. I did a reverse phone number check & found out that his cell number originates from a town near Denver Colorado, but his name was unlisted, so I never called him back & he never called me back (in spite of the urgency/desperation of his call the night before). So if you get a weird call like this, be very aware that this is probably a scam, and don't bite. 
And if you list something on your local 'dialndeal' radio program, check to see if there is a website through the sponsoring local talk radio station (many do, anymore).
Do you believe this!
in Leather Tools
Posted · Edited by whinewine
Again, check out the bid history... one of the same tweedledums,
y***i, is now duking it out with a new doofus, 
q***i & there are still over 4 hours to go in this auction... Oh, who will win THIS bargain??? (And at WHAT price?)[...hand across forehead...swoon...]
This is a leathercrafters' soap opera!
russ