RandyJ

Greetings to all! I have to admit, the more I read about how to dye / antique a bike seat and apply a water resistant/proof sealer the more confused I get. I would really appreciate some additional input! What I have... I've finished tooling. Leather is not secured to the seat yet. What I need... I would like to achieve a natural look. I'm open to using an antique to really bring out the tooling, but I don't wish to have the untooled leather darken much. What I've done... On a tooled scrap piece I've applied two liberal coats of neats foot oil. I like the color simply with the oil after coat one. Coat 2 is still drying. What I want... I'd like to know if I continue adding only neats foot oil until I get the color I want, wouldn't it be simple enough to then finish with resolene and call it good? Or can I still add an antique over the neats foot, then apply a top coat of resolene? Thanks in advance! Randy

I love the seat, Dave. I'm making my first right now. I plan on using black dye on some parts, but want the same background as what you did. Would you mind walking me through the steps you took to finish that seat? Any help is appreciated! Thanks, Randy

Working on my first tooled motorcycle seat and grips. Had planned all along to use a water-base dye and water-based clear coat. However, I've been reading a lot and now I'm curious about using oils for (possibly) a deeper, more authentic look. I also began getting concerned regarding the durability of the dye and clearcoat on a seat exposed to the elements and being sat on. My question: If I use an oil (Neatsfoot, Lexol NF, Fiebings, Picards, etc...) is there a separate clear coat I can use over it to prevent the oily or waxy bleed back? I want it to look cool without me wearing it later. Also, I did still plan on using black dye on some parts of the seat. If I do and use an oil over it, will the oil negatively affect the dye? I'd appreciate any advice ~ this site has been great! Thanks! Randy

Actually, I will be tooling it. I first wanted to see if the entire piece of leather would be able to fit correctly. Last night I soaked the mid-section again and pulled to the side and re-stapled. It looks much better now, but I'm going to continue trying to smooth it out. Thanks Marki for the reply.

Alright, I am attempting to cover a stock seat on my 2001 Heritage. I'm keeping original foam in place, no changes. I've removed all the old vinal covering. I've wet, formed, pressed and stapled (underneath, of course) a new piece of leather on the seat. It is looking pretty good, except for some puckering from left to right across the middle. It seems the leather can't be pulled in that area adequately. Do I need to cut it in a specific way to allow it to form inward, then lace together? Any suggestions? Thanks!