Tallbald

I'm not familiar with this particular product and a search here yields nothing. Experience and thoughts please? Thanks . Don

I used the search feature to try to get an answer but wasn't able to find the latter sequence (dye/trag/top coat) so I will post it, hoping to not recover old turf. I'll be making key ring belt loop, dog collars, and other items with exposed edges. One source suggested top coating after the dye and trag treatment with beeswax and buff. What's working for a durable, resilient look please? Thanks. Don

Thanks all for the input. Tractor Supply has a solid handle model with brass looking anvil and what appear to be removable punch tubes for right at $28. Might be a good compromise between the highest and lowest dollar tools. They have them in stock. I'll look it over soon. Don

Excellent and helpful responses. Tractor Supply has a solid handle version with what look like flats on the punch tube inserts for removing. It's right at $26. I'l call them to see if it's in stock. Thanks, Don

I will be making collars, strapping, and riveted items so I suppose it's time to consider buying a hole punch. But with prices from $4 to over $50, the spectrum of choices is broad. What makes a "good" and worthwhile hole punch? I'd like to choose based on some criteria and not just equating a higher price with higher quality. Specific brands might be good information too. Thanks all. Don. Just saw my missed letter in "look" in the title, but cannot edit it. Sorry. Don

This has become another very informative and interesting thread. All the responses add good points and are great for teaching a new craftsperson like me to think using conventional methods and yet not fear thinking outside the box. The remarks about stitching causing weak points is something I had not really considered. In a similar vein, I have to wonder if the expensive custom collars I see on various websites with large amounts of studs, buttons, crystals and other decorations attached by puncturing the leather to affix them aren't indeed weaker by their vary nature? Sort of a "Swiss cheese" effect. Don

Thanks in advance for information. I'm buying a leather sewing machine (Cowboy CB3500) and will be sewing, among other items, heavy duty lined work dog collars. I see other makers using either bridle leather or latigo leather. But I cannot clearly see why one over the other. I'm kinda new, and to me the latigo seems it would be more durable because of it's tanning process. But on the other hand, latigo won't (?) work if I need to tool a name or ID in it however bridle leather would. What is "best" or is it another "it depends" issue please? Also, most dog collar makers seem to prefer riveting the collar folds. Unless I use a solid brass or copper though, wouldn't the thin rivet material be more likely to give out than a well sewn double row stitch with waterproof thread? I'd prefer sewing because of the new machine I'm buying,as well as economy for me and the buyer without sacrificing strength. Don

Hi. I want to say thanks to all for help given me in the past. I'm planning to order my first leather sewing machine, a Cowboy CB3500, tomorrow. I've been hand stitching three years, and medical issues have forced the change to mechanized sewing. I have some learning issues though: I have no idea how to select the correct thread for the things I want to make. Thickness range for now is expected to be from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch, laminated dog collars and leashes to pistol holsters and key rings for snapping to a belt. I'd like to stay with one thread material. I know I can get thread in nylon, cotton, waxed or not and several others I see, all of course in different sizes. Can someone link me to a tutorial on thread size and material selection based on thickness of material please? I seem to see that some folks use a different size thread on the lower bobbin than the spool on top. Why do this? An experienced sewer myself on fabric, I'm used to using same thread top as bottom. Thanks again. Don

I see some makers using metal reinforcement for example at the mouth of holsters, on or in the tab of thumb break retainers and a few other places on modern gun leather. I would imagine high tensile stainless steel is an appropriate metal, but in thinner gauges. Where are craftspersons buying the metals they use, what are you using, how do you cut and de-burr it, etc. Thank you so much. Don

To date all I've created is old school style holsters from 9/10 ounce veg tanned hides. Vinegaroon for black, oil for natural. Hand saddle stitching only up to now, and with medical issues I've been limited in the size of projects. Fast forward to now. I'm planning to buy a Cowboy CB3200 quite soon, and my adult daughter has already put in a request for a messenger bag style purse. She showed me a style I believe it would make a good first time creation for me. All I have is 9/10 ounce cowhide veg tanned. I suspect that for a little more flexibility I will need to step down in thickness. Would appreciate advice. Also as to finish. All I really know is neatsfoot oil with a wax topcoat. I'd think I should consider a different finish for what wil essestially be a ladies purse. Again, advice appreciated. Thanks all, Don

Very soon I'll be "pulling the trigger" (love that phrase) on a new Cowboy CB3200. Did a lot of research, looked at reviews and opinions and checked into closest dealers. This machine seems to be my best choice based on total price including capacities, features and location. Sure excited. In the last day, looking at the CB3200 and its factory table, I'm really concerned though about about my height becoming an issue with the table set-up. Other machines look to be meant for standing at while in use, and have an adjustable height. One post I have seen refers to having the CB3200 on a CB 4500 (standing use) base. Toledo Sewing Machines is probably closed today (Saturday) so I can't ask about height adjustment. Any tall folks here with a CB3200 who could give me insight lease? Thanks. Don

Well I already did grab it up for $5, but I had no idea exactly what it was. I did know it's old time heavy cast iron craftsmanship though. The table has adjstable spring pressure to hold material between the zig ag wheel and a roller wheel. Hmmm.

Nobody can tell me what it is. Zig zag wheel can be replaced. Says "genuine Chandler USA" on the wheel, and HP2 cast into the frame. Don

OK. I saddle stitch all my holsters, because I have no machine stitch equipment. I also have arthritis, and have been hoping to discover a way to stitch that I can do without aggrivating my problem. Now some decry the lock stitch, as machines and sewing awls do, saying they aren't as durable as the saddle stitch and that one broken thread and everything can unravel. Do those of you who create those beautiful belts saddle stitch the borders? Goodness if you do I don't see how your hands hold up. Would a lock stitch be blasphemy? Do commercial holster makers like Bianchi, Don Hume, Safariland and others hand saddle stitch their products? What's the answer? Combine a lock stitch where there's no stress point and saddle stich the other parts of a holster? Please tell me what others are doing. Thank you all. Don

Thanks St8line. Yeah, I do glue the eges to be sewn. Learned that from a few youtube videos. I too think that swelling takes place after sewing, if I wet the holster after stitching. Actually, all my holsters get a soak because the only dyes I use are vinegaroon and homemade walnut stain (learning the latter as we speak). Even if I am leaving a holster natural, it gets soaked and wet molded. I think that I will just have to keep doing what I'm doing, meaning 1/16 inch drill and a pair of bent nose needle nose pliers. Thin leather gloves like bikers use do help me. I don't want to sacrifice the saddle stitch strangth for a lock stitch. Although both are good, the saddle is best for me I believe. Thanks all. Don

Another post I made makes me wonder this. Seems a sewing machine would be quick if it does, but sacrifices the strength of a saddle stitch. Don

Not real sure I understand. You pre-punch the leather using the shown needle spun in a drill press? Then use pliers as do I to pull the threaded needle thru? Don

Aaron my trouble is strength in my hands. I currently have to use bent needle nose pliers to push the threaded needle thrpgh the leather as I make the back stitch in a saddle stitch. I drill 1/16 inch, aware I am removing material, and although I wish I were not removing it, it's the only way I have to lessen the pressure needed to pass the needle. Question: Would a triangular awl point spread the matarial enough to allow the threaded needle to pass? I am having to adapt to my limitations, and chose drilling as a method. I know from extensive reading that others drill as do I. Most of my holsters are black from vinegaroon. I have been thinking the wetting of the leather in this process swells the leather to lock in the stitch too. At least I hope.......Don

Actually another tool I can and do use in the press is a 1 inch wood chisel blade I removed from the plastic handle with heat. The shaft of the blade slides up into the hole in the end of the arbor, and I can trim neat, square sections of leather like between holes punched for loops. Don

Last year when I got started in leather crafting I knew early on my arthritis would be a problem. I bought a 1 ton table top arbor press (instead of the 1/2 ton because I needed the throat room). Started out by disassembling it and de-burring everything. De-greased it while apart, and repainted a color I liked (and had a spare can of LOL). Laid out and drilled a 5/16 in hole in the end of the arbor 1 1/4 inch deep, and cross drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole to intersect from the side with the end hole, to give me a way to clamp punches in vertically. Next I made an oak bracket for the Proxxon and drilled and screwed it to a piece of heavy corner bracket cut to size, and fit it so it has repeatable positioning on the end of the arbor when attached to the threaded hole. I modified the factory accessory chuck to fit on this model and can use fine needle drills up to I think 1/8 inch. The table is removable on its oak filler shaped support, which is locator pin repeatable. The fence adjusts for distance from the center of the arbor, and helps me keep a straight line when border stamping, and is cut as a triangle of sorts so I can negotiate curved areas. I made a spring loaded strap return mehanism that can be removed if needed. I can replace the cutting board nylon "tabletop" with the factory cast iron round table too, and use the press to nicely set rivets and snaps. It's not pictured here, but a magnetic base work light attaches very well to the frame of the press and can light up either press work or stuff on our workbench (this is in my loving wife Penny's and my hobby room number two). The press is mounted on a scrap oak board with rubber button feet underneath. Heavy but portable. Hope these photos load. Don

OK so I see the stitching awl is not the answer. I had fears that wearing of one stitch could lead to a cascade of raveling. I should have explained to the forum that I do predrill with a 1/16 inch drill. I'll post my setup in another thread. I have modified a Harbor Freight 1 ton arbor press to be a stamping press, hole punch driver, and best of all, a bracket holds my Proxxon rotary tool dead vertical to drill 20,000 RPM holes for stitching. Could be I need to up the size of the holes a bit to make insertion of needles easier during the thread bypass move. I sure don't want raveling of a gun holster. No to sound prissy, but I'd rather quit than make something sub-standard , and I fully respect opinions here. Thank you, and further input appreciated. Don

Hoping for relief from my arthritis in the hands and elbows, I'm looking at alternatives to an expensive leather sewing machine. right now all I use is a saddle stitch for the holsters I make. I'm hoping a more hand friendly stitching method is out there I can afford that will give me a strong durable stitch. Who makes a good heavy duty stitching awl with the spool outside the handle down near the needle (don't know the correct name of this style) ? I'd rather buy quality and buy once. Thank you so much. Don

I'm older and have proriatic arthritis in hands, elbows yadayada. It's getting worse, and I fear I won't be able to keep doing this craft. I've considered selling some other stuff to buy a leather sewing machine not as a business but to keep up with my hobby. I'm not interested in an electric model, but rather something like the Boss or even an old foot operated model if I could find one. But I don't know this: Right now all I do is a saddle stitch. Is a sewing machine stitch as strong as a saddle stitch? What do I lose by going to a sewing machine? Is there a cheaper alternative to a sewing machine? Thank you. Don

I have no doubt this has been covered many times, but the search feature isn't working for me. Is there a way to clean a tiny droplet of dye off tanned leather? I'm thinking that just being more careful is the best answer, but stuff happens. Denatured alcohol leaves a blotch and was a mistake to try. When I use dye to blacken an edge, let it dry then burnish with gum trag, I also get splatters at times that I can't get off. Simple sklls sometimes elude me and I'm sorry. Dang I wish everybody wanted blackened leather, which is visually my favorite anyway. Thanks. Don

Want to apologize to all here for having been off the forum a long time. Family illnesses, family heart attacks and surgeries, my own surgery and many other things have conspired to keep me from working to learn more about the craft and practicing some new skills. I did get to design and craft a holster I am happy with though. My brother-in-law was given a beautiful high polish Ruger Bisley Vaquero .45 Colt by his son. He asked me to make him a holster for it, which I did. I made my own tracing and pattern, tweeking it to just what I thought it should be. Not particularly traditional, it is equipped with a cross draw belt loop and thong hammer loop. Died black as a starless and moonless night with vinegaroon that I started a year and a half ago, it's finished with super shene and my own mixture of beeswax/parrafin/olive oil buffed to a satin luster. I felt good enough about the result to stamp it with my mark, his initials and date. Next on the list is a shoulder holster for a CZ75B stainless for myself, with cold weather coming on. Thanks for loking, and input and constructive criticisms appreciated. Don