Tallbald

Thank you so much! Don.

I've been making holsters for several years now, and have expanded to belts and strap goods at the request of some customers and a gun shop. I've read much and watched lots of educational videos. Materials and sequence now: 1)I'm using two layer laminated 7-8 ounce Hermann Oak veg tanned. Cut straps myself. Need belts to be about 1/4 inch finished thickness. 2)Edge trim, sand edge, dye with Fiebings oil dye thinned with denatured alcohol, wipe down with terry cloth. 3)Nylon thread sewn on machine 6 stitches per inch. 4) Burnish edges with gum trag. 5)Lastly, apply several coats Lexol Leather Conditioner,dry well, brush on two coats Resolene. Assemble belt with keeper and buckle. Troubles encountered sometimes. 1) bleeding of dye residue onto white thread when applying Lexol or Resolene, despite wipe down of leather after dye is dried. 2) occasional stress crack on leather surface at outer face of leather bend for buckle tongue. I believe that I will have to begin skiving or sanding to thin the inside of buckle tongue bend before dyeing and finishing to positively prevent any stress crack at bend. I am considering trying completely finishing belt including Lexol and Resolene BEFORE stitching belts. Thinking this would keep threads brighter. Am I missing something? I don't pretend to know lots of answers. I do though ask and learn so I can better myself and my techniques. Thanks. Don.

Thank you all. Johnv474 I shall let my belts dry several days in warm weather before using Resolene. Don.

Thank you both so very much. Wonderful news. Don.

I'm adding laminated (two 5-6 ounce veg tanned) leather CCW and work belts to my products. I've searched the big hardware supply stores (not Tandy) and may be missing them, but for the life of me I don't find 1 3/4 inch width offered much. LOTS of 1 1/2 inch and down, but that's about the biggest I'm seeing. I'd rather not post the names of those I've looked at because if I'm just missing what I want I don't want to make them look bad. That's just how I am. I want simple strong single tongue buckles I can be proud to put on my belts. I don't want three piece sets of ornate hardware. Thoughts please? Thanks Don

Yeah it was late when I said toughened too. Actually my leather is Hermann Oak. It's after I apply the alcohol based dye that it gets stiff and can crack with bending. The Lexol doesn't leave the oily feel like NFO. I left NFO behind last year after "discovering" Lexol Leather Conditioner by accident. Don.

I can bend my leather projects after treatment without the surface cracking or breaking. I'm sure other leather treatments work too though.

Thank you. The belts I make must be softened and toughened with Lexol, but I want the shine and protective qualities of the Resolene. Don.

Does the combination retain the durability of the Resolene over the conditioner? haven't found this in a search. Thank you. Don.

Huffdad thanks. I've not sewn the belt yet so I went ahead and mop stained the center with another coat. The coloration evened out well. I'll keep experimenting some more. Don.

Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine has a great needle selection and his thread works very well in my Cowboy. Excellent customer service also. Don.

Hi and thanks in advance. I've made many holsters, dying them with vinegaroon soak nicely. I've made my first belt though and have dyed it with thinned Fiebings show brown. The method I used I saw here in the past and basically involved a shallow pan containing the dye, with me running the belt in one long pass through the dye. Of course the dye saturated the edges more that the body of the belt which nicely frames the belt in a way. But if I did not want the darker edge that extends about 3/8 inch inward on all surfaces, should I seal the edge before dipping OR change to brushing the dye on as I've seen others do? The dip method is fast and I thought would go on more evenly. Don.

Trox you make very good points. Thank you for responding, and i shall choose wisely. Don.

Hey thank you! I see that the hinge bolt is positioned much closer to the cutting surface than fabric shears, for leverage I am thinking. Don.

yes JLS my 35oo is a shorter throat than the 4500, and has an external bobbin winder instead of integral like the 4500. Thanks too. Don.

I really should try before even asking, but through the years I've learned that asking questions BEFORE trying a tool can ease the way and prevent damage to stuff. I'll be making my first belt of laminated leather, two 5/6 thicknesses. Stitching will be about 3/16 inch from the edge. Can't find any videos about the roller guide accessory, but there's bound to be something I should know first.... As always folks. Thank you. Don.

Thank you! Don.

I've been using dressmakers shears but they aren't the right tool for the job, and I would like to price a good pair of shears for trimming up to say 8/9 ounce veg tanned hide on project corners etc. A search on "shears" isn't helping a lot as discussions I found aren't about choosing a set. Thoughts please? And thank you. Don.

Wizcrafts that's exactly what I want to be able to do. Thank you ! Don.

Bob talked with me about how the accessory plate is made, talked about some options in needle and thread sizes I can use (thinner thread with needle size reduction as shown in the chart on the company website), and discussed removal of the lower feed dog for use of the different plate. I agree that Bertha Jo (my 3500) is a large, very heavy duty machine designed specifically for certain styles of sewing and applications. It's a clone I think of a venerable machine that's served industry well for years so there's nothing really new about it's capabilities and limits ----it's just a more affordable version for folks like me. I appreciate his dump-truck-for grocery-shopping analogy which made me grin. and as a retired tool and die maker I understand well. Each time I use Bertha Jo I learn more about her strengths. I do know that sewing stiffer, pre-dyed leather gives me less problem than plain veg tanned because of resistance to flexing. The optional plate ( or my version) will, I believe, solve my problem. Again, it comes back to me knowing my machine. I categorize that as (this) operators learning curve. Pretty excited here myself. Hopes this thread helps some others too. Don.

Hi again folks. I just wanted to say again how tickled and impressed I am with Bob Kovar's excellent post-sale customer support there at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines . Bob called me this morning and followed up his posted answers to me in greater detail regarding my questions about my Cowboy 3500. Understand that this is over a full year after the sale was made. What he discussed with me opened up several avenues I can take that will let me get even more versatile use from "Bertha Jo", as my wife and I have named my 3500. That's great service. I'm going to see if I am able to fabricate a throat plate for my 3500 myself. If not, I'll bite the bullet and buy one. I'd prefer the stainless steel factory made accessory plate option anyway. Kudos to Bob, and all the members of this forum who take time to help those at every level of experience when they can. Don.

Bob I'm not upset at all. I thought it was my technique causing me trouble. I'm glad to know there's an accessory plate I can buy. As a retired toolmaker, I may try to make myself one if I find a photograph of the real deal. Keep me in mind too please if you ever happen upon a used stainless single toe presser foot (left OR right--I will make do) I have found that I could benefit from one when sewing up against a boned shoulder on some of the holsters I make. I even thought of cutting and modifying a two toe presser foot if I found one inexpensively. I simply can't currently afford the price of a new one. Penny's and my medical things and other necessities of course have to take priority. I do so appreciate the time you have given me in the last year on the telephone helping me learn my machine. And your videos are a good source for me too. I've never had as good a customer service over long term as I have from you. Don Post Script: Anyone have a picture or drawing of the accessory plate for the Cowboy 3500 maybe they could share? Don.

Are they expensive Dan? And would that let me sew heavy canvas, thin leather and such? Thanks. Don

25B I've been thinking it was a technique problem on my part. I'll be interested to see how I can make it better. I've ruined several handgun holsters, dip can belt holsters and many small craft sale items (like keychain fobs, snap keychain straps and such) that require me to sew close to an edge. Chalked it up to my inexperience, not my machine. ****Does anybody have a nice but used left or right toe presser foot for sale that will fit my Cowboy 3500 please? If so, I'd appreciate a snapshot and price. I'm on a very fixed income and new, they are a bit out of my range. Don.

Bob this is Don in Bowling Green, KY. I bought my wonderful Cowboy 3500 from you last spring, but no other plate came with it except the one installed when you shipped it to me. I did remove the roller guide with its flat plate to give me better access when sewing. Is part of that roller a part I need to utilize? Or Are you talking about an accessory slotted plate I need to purchase? I left a message for you at your business but I believe you are closed for the day. I'm on Central time while you are on Eastern I believe. Side note here folks from a satisfied purchaser: For those of you looking for a Cowboy product, Bob Kovar has given me great service and has a wealth of knowledge. I would buy from Bob and his son again without hesitation.Pretty neat that a seller is also actively a contributor to the forum here. Don.