Tallbald

I've been asked by several customers to begin offering leather lined holsters too. To date I've researched the process and experimented with the 2 -3 ounce pigskin I have on hand mated to 7-8 ounce veg tanned cowhide. My machine, a wonderful Cowboy 3500 pulls the thread completely through the thin pigskin essentially cutting it at the edge sewn seams. I'm going to switch to cowhide lining when I order another hide for springtime crafting. I'm thinking 4 ounce cow hide for lining. Will cow hide be more resistant to the pull-through cutting than the pigskin? I find I really don't care for the pigskin. Just my opinion. I lowered the upper tension as far as I thought I could safely. Suggestions please? I am using #277 nylon thread upper and lower. All thanks to folks here. Don.

Thank you all for taking time to share with me. Don.

I only recently have begun teaching myself (with help from this forum of course) to line my leather holsters. My holsters are 7-8 ounce veg tanned Wickett and Craig and Hermann Oak, and right now I'm trying 2-3 ounce veg tanned pigskin for the lining. I know some prefer to use two thin layers of 4-5 ounce cowhide, but I am using the same hides for my custom gun belts as my holsters. I see that calf skin 2-3 ounce is approximately half the price of the hides I use for my belts and holsters, and wonder about the working quaities of calf skin. is calf skin suitable for holster lining? Or is it too delicate and prone to tearing? Thanks. Don

Dwight thank you so much for your reply. I'll integrate some of your technique into my new venture farther into the craft. Don.

You folks are too funny! Thanks for the grins. Don.

Coreysyms thanks. I didn't know about this style chisel. Tomorrow a Springfield leather shipment of belt buckles arrives to me. I wish I'd asked earlier this week! I need more holster lining leather soon. I'll add a chisel to my order. Thank you once more. Don

I always search tutorials and threads before asking but this time I'm seeing little to address my specific questions about holster lining. I'm teaching myself to line my holsters at the request of numerous customers. I use high quality 7-8 ounce vegetable tanned leather for holsters, and have on hand 2 ounce veg tanned pigskin for lining. I understand prep, cutting and such and feel confident. But what I am not so sure about is the exposed edges of the laminated combination. My holsters are machine sewn. I use Weldwood Contact cement for the gluing. With a lined holster, even though my stitch line is within 3/16 inch of the exposed edge (for example at the edge of the holster bucket where the handgun is constantly inserted) and I glue thoroughly right out to the very edge, isn't there the risk in time of the lining coming loose and separating from the 7-8 ounce layer? How is this prevented? Should I move the stitch line closer to the exposed edge? I do trim and use gum trag for burnishing exposed edges on my holsters and belts, and use Resolene top coat finish. Thank you as always. Don.

Coreysyms that's just handsome! And my thanks to you also. Are you using a straight woodworking chisel for the clean slice? I'm not familiar with any other style chisel. Don.

Thank you all. Tinkertailor I will try the multi step approach too. Don

I have begun making many holsters using button stud flap closures, both 7mm and 8 mm diameter heads. I use a nice punch set I keep sharp and which is of the Tandy advised size. I use my Xacto blade to cut the short cut one point off the punched hole. I use Lexol conditioner to soften the punched hole and slit before pressing it down onto the stud the first time. But I still get a little cracking on the outer side of the hide around the punched hole, and a few strands of flesh on the inner surface that drag into the punched hole. Wickett and Craig and Hermann Oak veg tanned 7-8 ounce hides. Any advise please? Thanks as always. Always tickled to learn new techniques. Don

Folks I have a 12 ounce ball pien hammer that was my grandfather's. He kept it in his 1963 Chevy Belair's trunk for years. It's mine now, rusted up and pitted, but I took it to our little shop, and using emery cloth and the lathe, resurfaced the face and ball, and made a new un-cracked handle. I re-read the responses and using a combination of the suggestions offered here, managed to handsomely peen the rivet down over the burr, giving as pointed out a true hand crafted look. With all your all's help I believe I've found my groove. Thank you each respondent again. Don.

This is wonderful and I sincerely appreciate the information. I will bite the bullet, use some rivets and burrs (thank you for the terminology help)and try utilizing all or parts of the techniques outlined. The price of practice rivets is cheap compared to the frustration I've been experiencing. As with so many facets of craftsmanship, one does, I believe, tap into the experience of others and develop a personal approach to creating a quality product. Each of you has helped me by sharing freely. I look forward to the next session I can spend at the bench trying these ideas. Don

I've recently begun using the attributes of solid copper rivets to make my holsters and sheaths stronger. I watched a few tutorials online, and read threads here. I thank those who post and share ideas and thoughts too. I trim a rivet to about 1/8 of an inch above the washer, using side cutters. My setting tool is just a basic one from Springfield Leather. I have tried two ways of trimming---one is a single cut, and the other is two cuts rotated 90 degrees from each other. The first way gives me a chisel looking cut, while the second way gives me a pyramid appearance. Either way I end up with a sharp burr on the post that's hard to file away. * On the Tandy video I see there's a separate "doming tool" used to give a nicer recessed look to the set rivet. Are these practical in use? *Am I over-hammering the rivet post causing the burrs to form? *Would a flat cut using a jewelers saw reduce burrs? Some videos show the craftsperson peening the post over either before OR after using the setting tool to deform and secure the post. I believe I'm overthinking riveting, but the burrs are not acceptable. Suggestions sure appreciated. Thank you as always. Don.

Johnny thank you so much. I do hope others can gain from my experimentation with tools that help folks with limitations as I have. I disassembled my HF press and deburred it, and applied good paint to smooth over some rough spots while it was disassembled. Please let me know if I can help. DOn.

Thanks to each of you for the kind words folks.I do hope it helps some, as it has me. Don.

I couldn't edit the place where I had posted photos of my return spring arrangement that were accidentally deleted. Here are, as asked, a couple photos I snapped a few minutes ago. I hope these help. Don

Amyamy I didn't realize I had deleted the other photo on photobucket, and will find and repost it. The end of the arbor shaft is drilled 5/16 diameter 1 1/4 inches deep. The locking screw through hole is drilled and tapper for a 1/4-20 short bolt. Both the vise and modified arbor press I made help me so very much with my leather crafting, as I hope something similar can help others. I used a Harbor Freight press bought for $40 using one of their 20% off coupons so often seen. Don

Thank you all everyone for the kind words sent my way. I use my vise every time I craft a belt, and continue to hope it helps others in pursuing our leather passion. Don

TinkerTailor I hadn't thought of that. I appreciate your sharing. I wonder if the squishing to conform to the shape relaxes back over time if the item is not in the holster? Or would it basically retain the squished contour? I love the toughness and resilience of leather. The belly sounds for all intents and purposes to be a very useful portion of the hide. Again, I'm glad I made the wise business and crafting decision to accept the belly hide. I just need to develop the skill set to learn its use. Thanks as always. Don

Bob I like your idea. I see great possibilities for lining say, folding knife sheaths, and not having to use pigskin but rather the belly hide. The flexibility of the belly, as long as it was not too wrinkled would let it conform to the outer layer well maybe. Same principle as using it for the beautiful bicycle chain holster just formed inward. Experimentation will show. My hide did arrive and I'm pleased with the whole skin. The belly is firm yet flexible. Glad I bought it instead of paying them the same amount to remove it before shipping. I expect it will indeed give me an opportunity to acquire new skills in working with this portion of the leather. Thank you for the idea. Don.

I'm pleased to receive some belly leather. I believe that practice and determination along with skill brought forward will let me craft useful, desirable items that folks will be pleased to have. Again, it's a matter of skills developed using imperfect materials. It speaks to the expertise of the leather worker.Thank you for the inspiration. Beautiful results. And it shows you are quite the craftsperson..I disregard naysayers. Don.

For an item that will not come in contact with blued steel, I'll use 'roon . thanks , DOn

Dan thank you. yes that's the one at the left. A nice secure looking affair. I only wonder if it's something I can buy in quantities of say 10 at a time. Some things seem only to be for sale in quantities of much more. Thank you again. Don

Thanks. I can see several applications for belly leather. I use my premium hide sections for my holsters and belts,always carefully selecting and hand cutting my straps, holster parts, and creating my own patterns. The "holstering" of the hide may make working characteristics better initially. I'll just have to experiment. I use scraps too small for bigger and better items to make key chains, bracelets and such that sell at area tourist and novelty type stores and help generate income rather than throwing them out. Hair sticks are a good idea too ChiefJason. I admire your creative uses Glendon and ChiefJason. I too would toss any really fleshy sections. I have too much stock and too little space to keep junk leather around. For some time I've had in mind wet molded possibles bags for black powder shooters--the characteristics of belly leather might be in keeping with the application. Thank again all for the good ideas. Don

I'll try some possibles pouches and small bags. I've never shied away from a challenge, and wet molding is nice. I was taught that a good craftsman could make something nice from a less than pristine material. It's a matter of skills I guess.Thanks all. Don.