Tallbald

Thank you both for responding. Since the Resolene is I believe moisture resistant, I may not have problems I worry about after it dries thoroughly. Don.

Thank you. I hope that my design will help some other leather crafters here who might have disabilities like mine. I built it because I have a spinal injury, can only set for rather short times, and also have prsoriatic arthritis in my joints. Hammering a border stamping is very difficult because of the needed movements. My hands also go numb after a few inches of decorating. This modification have been wonderful for me, allowing me to stamp an entire line in one setting. It is, I seem to recall, a one ton press from Harbor Freight. Don.

I use only Fiebings alcohol based dyes on my projects (black, show brown, mahogany). After thorough drying time, I rub rub rub the project with terry cloth or paper towels until no dye rubs off any further to the cloth or paper towel. Despite this rubbing, invariably, when I apply Lexol conditioner and wipe the item down more dye comes off on the towel after dryiing and THEN, when I apply Resolene to seal the item yet more dye comes off. I worry about transfer to clothing of my customer. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks. Don

Hi. Several years ago when I first started working with leather I modified an inexpensive arbor press to become both a border stamping machine and a drill press for a hand grinder style tool. The adjustable fence works very well, and the accessory table removes quickly to let the circular press table be used as the press was made for. I also made a return spring for the spur gear stud by using a leather strap, a tension spring and a small head bolt drilled and tapped into the spur gear stud. The fence is a strap of scrap stainless steel, the base and other wood parts are scrap oak. A cutting board section was mad into the new table surface. Hope the link works. Just now learning to upload to Youtube. Thanks for looking. Don

Dwight that's wonderful. I really like the mated radius. Don.

Thanks to the both of you. What you all have shared is what I was trying to communicate. A single layer would look better than a skived then sanded transition from double to single layer I believe too. Thank you for the validation. Don.

Really enjoying opportunities for artistic freedoms making heavy duty belts. I use two layers of 7-8 ounce Hermann Oak leather. At the buckle end my belts are of course too thick for a complete bend without trimming, so I skive them to a little over half the thickness at the tongue hinge area. It allows me to bend without cracking and helps the tab lay more flat. Recently during final assembly I've considered though either continuing skiving at the hinge, or going further and skiving from the hinge point to the buckle end tip. I've read here about some craftspeople who taper the inner layer from the buckle hinge to the tip before laminating, leaving one layer only at that section. I could gum trag that section to smooth the surface. Are there any downsides to skiving to the tip I'm missing? Don

Rob and everyone else thank you all for generously sharing thoughts. I think I shall try once as RobDude 30 has done, stitching over the Resolene (hope I understood right) then a light final Resolene coat to seal the thread holes. SO much to learn and enjoy, so little time. Don.

Wiz again thanks. Don

Good point (no pun intended). Will make piercing easier with less chance of deflection. Don

To date I've only sewn up to two thicknesses of 8 ounce. But I've designed and made a laminated sheath for an ulu knife which at the sewn section is a full 5/8 inch of dyed hermann oak. Edge dye is drying overnight and tomorrow I begin sewing. Before beginning on something this thick I will test a scrap piece, and am asking here if I should make any adjustments to my Cowboy 3500 to accommodate the thickness. Thanks. Don.

King that's funny! Penny and I share our life, our home and our hobby spaces. HR2 (Hobby Room #2) sprang up when our youngest moved out on her own. It houses Bertha Jo (my Cowboy 3500) and leather crafting supplies as well as her material "stash", sewing machines and supplies, and the above mentioned templates. HR1 is pretty much dedicated to Penny's quilting machine and frame. We also share a wood shop with lathes, a band saw, drill press etc. I personally don't choose to have a "man room", nor her a "woman's den". We share tools, ideas, and overall a wonderful time together. Don.

I've learned from sharing a hobby room with my wonderful wife, that the acrylic stitching templates meant for quilters work well for repeating patterns on my belts and cases. Online retailers catering to quilters have lots of templates, as does Hobby Lobby. Hobby Lobby also often has deep discount coupons on their website that make the templates even more attractive. I hope this helps others as it does me. Don.

I use dilute Resolene, two applications, as a durable topcoat on holsters, cell phone cases and belts. I wonder though is a light buffed touch of a leather wax of some kind over the Resolene would give my projects a slicker feel than just the Resolene by itself. Suggestions please? Thanks. Don

I'm glad this was asked here and answered so well. I expect I too will encounter this at some point. Thank you Bush for asking, and Colt for the answer! Don.

Colt W. Knight and Dirtclod thank you. Colt I see what you're saying. Provided I haven't messed with the stitch length setting I would think I could clip as you said. Then hopefully manually insert the needle into the hole 3-4 back and go forward from there. I use nylon thread that melts nicely when I dust it with a butane lighter. I found that tapping it with a small hammer flattens it nicely too, if I'm quick. Dirtclod I follow your advise and check each time I begin. I often change thread color so that's my good time for a routine I see. I know that my good fortune in not running out will itself run out. Your all's answers make me better prepared. Don

My Cowboy 3500 is a marvelous machine and I've progressed so very much in my ability to use it. I've also been lucky so far and not run out of bobbin thread mid project ....so far. As a long time user of sewing machines on cloth fabric I never had a problem just loading another bobbin, backing up to where it ran out and resewing from there. But in leather projects of course the thread is a part of the artwork aspect of a project whether it's a holster, sheath, or belt. It has to be nice looking. With a compound feed foot I would think I'd be able with some attention to pick up where I ran out of bobbin thread, but I wonder what others do who have more experience. Any special techniques? I've been known to toss out a partial winding on a bobbin to avoid running out. But I hate wasting thread. Thanks. Don

Thank you again Michael. Don.

Bob I appreciate you sharing your thoughts. I'll give the one-coat a try and see how things turn out. I worry about laminate separation at an edge on a strap or belt, but know my stitching should hold things together fine. I don't see a lot of stress forming on the edges of my projects really. And for time and cost reasons I do hope a single layer of cement will suffice. Oh. Your Etsy site is beautiful and nicely done. Beautiful creations! Don.

Dwight thanks. I took your advice last week and bought acid brushes at Harbor Freight. Gotta love the 20% off coupons with a free tape measure to boot. Yeah, my leather turns brown so it looks like I AM overdoing it. I've been palm pressing it and tomorrow plan to lathe turn a hardwood roller to ease things. I'll try using less, but I definitely don't want the edges of my straps to separate over time. I'm able to sew to within 3/16 or 1/4 of an inch while using a roller guide. Honestly I was of the belief that the contact cement would reinforce the laminates bond out past the stitches. Your experience in this matter? Don. A comment here. I had never used contact cement before beginning leather crafting. Instructions were that "two coats may be needed on porous surfaces". I accepted that and ran with it, evidently mistakenly thinking I needed to use two. Don.

Hmm. I don't see it next to the cement at either store I buy Weldwood at. Must have to order it site-to-store. I wish I knew what the stuff is. Thank you. Don.

Several on the forum mention thinning contact cement for easier spreading. It takes almost four ounces of un thinned Weldwood to double coat one of my belt blanks (once isn't enough as first does soak in) 60 inches long by 1 1/2 inch wide. Thinner consistency would be faster and I believe more economical. But I've can't find on the quart can label what to thin it with. Just "cleanup" with mineral spirits, which isn't what the glue smells like to me. Maybe it is indeed thinned with mineral spirits. Thought it couldn't hurt to ask here. Appreciate information. Don.

Thanks again all. Yes, JLS retired from both careers. Life took some odd turns after my dad passed away when I was twenty back in in the 70's. College for one and an apprenticeship for the other. Don.

I appreciate all this input. Dwight I dip dye as you once discussed with me. JLS I guess as you've mentioned, the dye wasn't as dry as I thought. I will from now on give my straps and belts an extra 24-48 hours drying time. There's just no way to rush that. I do prefer the thread color to remain unchanged and brilliant, so my dying always takes place before sewing operations. As a side note, and referencing another thread I posted in the "Leather Sewing Machine" section, I've found that the dyed leather is stiff enough that when I sew close to an edge, the leather does not flex downward with the touch of the needle tip and cause the stitch to come out the side of the project underneath. Using a new, very sharp needle also helps prevent that. Anyway, I want to develop a sequence of work that integrates sewing while the leather is stiff. I ask forgiveness at this time for my dwelling on sequences. I'm both a retired RN and retired Tool and Die maker used to operating in specific sequences of action to reach a goal. Has anyone following this thread ever tried sewing as the last operation in the crafting sequence and sewn after the Resolene (or other final finish) has been done? As in my past careers I learned from reading, studying and asking here. Thanks Don

Usually two Lexol coats is plenty on mine. I dip dye then dry, and wipe down well with a terry cloth rag. I do cut the Resolene 50/50 with water. It's the surface of the leather that's cracking at times though, right at the outside of the buckle bend where the stretching is greatest because of the volume of the inner laminate layer. I believe sanding (with a small drum sander) on the inside of the bend to a little more than one layer thickness would correct the issue. Easier for me than razor skiving because of arthritis in hands. So you apply Resolene over the stitches I see? You said you bend when damp. Damp with dye or damp with NFO or Lexol or other moisturizer? I still wonder what would happen if I did all finishing, including Resolene before sewing. I think there would be no dulling or risk of discoloration to the thread. Thanks Don.