malabar

I think my method is easier, but it does take some practice. I cut the outside layer longer than the inside layer, because the outside layer will be the part that wraps completely around the gun. Getting the length right requires some experimenting, but it's typically twice the thickness of the gun (for autos). The extra material should be on the trigger side of the outside layer. Apply a coat of cement to the ends of both the outside and inside layers and let dry. Align the top edge (the side adjacent to the gun's sights) of the layers and press together. The pieces are now joined on the side nearest the gun's sights. Insert the gun into the holster, and wrap the outside (longer) layer over the gun. Pull it down tight to form a tight fit around the gun, and press the cemented layers together. You now have an unstitched and unformed shell of a holster. Cut and sand the edges square. Now comes the tricky part -- creating the stitch line around the trigger guard side of the gun. I have a template of each gun made out of a rigid material for creating the stitch line. I insert the gun into holster, lay the template on top of it, and then index the template slightly away from the gun, and trace the stitch line down in white ink (assuming I'm working with black leather). I then cut the stitch line with a groover, and stitch. tk

Well futz. I just bought a bunch from them and that wasn't listed. Still isn't on their site...... tk

just an FYI: SIG makes 1911s with both a standard slide, and the their unique square slide -- and both railed and non-railed versions of each. And in different slide nengths to boot. I ended up buying a railed, square-slide model, because there was no substitute. tk

The SIG 938. I haave a SIG Tacops 1911 they could use for a mold. Mayve we could make a deal..... tk

no kidding. I think there's actually four versions of the 229 out there -- the non-railed with the round trigger guard; the railed version with the square trigger guard and the half-height slide serrations at the rear; the new version with the full-length serrations at the rear; and the new version with full-length serrations at the rear and partial serrations up front. Oh yeah, and the new version without the rail and with full-length serrations at back. And the variation in their 1911 line is worse -- railed or non-railed frames; traditional or square slides; front cocking serrations or not; fullsize, compact or snubby. And there aren't any blue guns for any of them... tk

You sew the reinforcement piece in first, while the pieces of leather are flat. Then you bend the reinforcement piece around the gun into the proper shape. Then you glue the sides together, and then stitch the sides. tk

I'll try to take a few photos of my setup this weekend. I make the blanks in batches out of .125" Kydex. I bandsaw the Kydex into 1-inch strips. Smooth the edges with a scratch stock set into a bench vise; then drill two holes on one-inch centers, using a precision jig I made. I round the edges on a bench grinder, and then they are ready for molding. I have a jig made out of heat-proof ceramic tile, with two pins that match the holes in the blank. I put the blank on the pins and heat the blank with heat gun. I use small strips of wood to bend the kydex around. I've made several shapes, like the ones below.... tk

Don't know of a supplier. I make my own -- it's not that hard. tk

Interesting. The company's specs don't indicate that -- although one of my manuals does say there is a .1" difference in overall height. Perhaps that's in the slide... tk

Guess I'm gonna have to buy one... tk

From the top..... the 239 frame is the same size in all calibers. The modern 220 and 226 are the same width in all calibers; however, the older German models are slightly narrower. In Glocks, the 9mm, .357, .40 and .45 GAP all have the same width; the 10mm and the .45 ACP are slightly wider (about .1 inch). The XD and XDM are different altogether. Within the XD line, the slide on the 9mm is about .08 thinner than on the .40. Either that, or my blue guns are really off. Not sure about the other calibers. I've got XDMs on order from a local distributor. Don't get me started on 1911s. S&W and SIG both make proprietary frames, and Springfield and Kimber make proprietary sizes. And SIG makes a commander-sized version of their proprietary gun AND a rounded-corner "carry" version. You could have a wall full of 1911 dummy guns -- except that no one makes dummy guns for many of them. Which reminds me, why do the four suppliers of dummy guns all make the same models (Ring's, Blackhawk, Duncan's Lindells's)? tk

guess I'll have to buy the real thing <sigh> woe is me <g> tk

Folks, I need to make some holsters for SIG 1911s with the square slide. Does anyone know of a dummy gun for this model? Will S&W 1911 work in its place? thanks for the help tk

It depends on your construction. You have to take into account your attachment points and your snap, and the width and thickness of the belt. My blank straps are typically 6.25" and will accommodate up to a 2" belt. tk

OK, I'm intrigued. What kind of leather would you have used that would have cost $150? tk

One thing that puzzles me is, why do so many folks leave the muzzle-end of their pocket holsters open? One of the primary reasons for using a pocket holster is to protect the gun from pocket junk (also proper presentation, protecting the trigger guard, and disguising the gun's profile). That's an invitation to get crud in your muzzle.

I am not the most experienced leatherworker on this forum by a long shot, but I have made several dozen holsters and belts wit the vinegaroon method (I do most of mine today with drum-dyed Herman Oak). Here's the method that has worked best for me...... For holsters: Cut your parts, stitch your seams, mold the gun. While it's wet, stamp your mark and cut your edges round. Bake in the oven. Let dry overnight. Dip in vinegaroon. Wait until it darkens up (this can take several minutes). Now brush with baking soda solution. Let dry for 24 hours. Buff, apply diluted resolene. Let dry. Buff. Apply second coat of resolene. If you do the roon right, it make the leather almost waterproof. So if you roon first, then try to mold, you can have problems. tk

That's a great story. I'm going to tell it the next time we teach a pistol class. tk

That's a great story. I'm going to tell it the next time we teach a pistol class. tk

I'm with you. Just because people know what they want, doesn't mean they know what they're doing. tk

135 degrees should not have cause that kid of shrinkage. Either the little oven is WAY too hot (or the holster is too close to the heating element) or there is another factor involved. As shooter McGavin pointed out, casing water that it was too hot will do terrible things to holsters -- especially the magic leather-into-kydex trick. tk

It's one of the regular horsehide strips from Springfield Leather. They sometimes have that "marbelling" in them. Not sure if that's the right term, but is eems descriptive. tk

Gotcha. I started using 344 for the top thread on most of my holsters as while ago. It does have a somewhat bolder look, especially on very dry, firm leather like Hermnan Oak. May have to try the bigger thread as well. thanks tk

Dwight, you use 407? That's pretty heavy. Mind if I ask why? tk

Hey, that would be something to try: An IWB for a mare's leg <g> tk