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About DonR

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    All things leather.

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    holsters, belts, sheaths
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  1. Regis

    Sorry it has taken me this long to reply. Press is the one from tandy Item #3990-00

    Also have tubular rivet die (3998-00) and multi purpose snap dies Item #3994-00.

    All are virtually new. I set a few snaps and that is all.

    Let me know if you still have interest.


  2. Congratulations on your new laser. I hope you Like yours as much as I like mine.

  3. DonR

    Hi Regis. I'm interested in your rivet press. Can you give me details?


  4. No color was added but the engraved color can vary depending on the tanning process, the type dye used, and oil or wax content in the leather. You're correct that font size isn't much of an issue, but my rule of thumb is a minimum of 10 points with light backgrounds and 12 points for dark ones. I usually burn the image a little deeper for dark backgrounds for greater visibility, but it softens the definition just a tad. Don
  5. Never ask a geek to describe something in more detail unless you are prepared to listen to some detail! Okay, here goes. My laser unit came with software called Lasercut. While it is possible to create or manipulate images in Lasercut, those functions, in my opinion, are too primitive to be really useful, which is why I create my images in Corel (you could use Photoshop, CADD, or any other drawing and/or image editing software, as long as it allows you to save your files in a format Lasercut can read - in my case I use .dxf and .bmp files. The laser machine itself has no memory of its own and can do nothing without instructions from a computer. I use a dedicated computer for driving the laser (a setup I recommend). The computer communicates with the laser through a SCSI interface, but if you are willing to pay extra you can get a laser with a USB interface. I use another, more powerful computer on the same network to create, manipulate, and store images. For the cartridge wallet in the picture I first drew the shape with the rivet and snap holes where I wanted them, and saved it as a vector file (one in which the software instructs the computer to go from point A to point B, then C, etc.). This is the only type of file my laser can use for cutting, which involves continuous firing of the laser. The next step was to draw the basket weave pattern, which is simpler than it might seem. I only had to draw one segment and two segment designs, as you can see in the picture. Then it is just a matter of making a couple of copies those, positioning them at right angles to each other, and using a function called 'step and repeat' to add as many segments as I wish in any direction. Then I added a border and black background. When I finished drawing, of course, I had another vector file, which is not ideal for engraving. Raster files (those which instruct the laser to fire as it passes over designated pixels while ignoring the pixels in between) are best for engraving, so I did a copy and paste into the image editing program in Corel, Photopaint, and saved it as a one bit bitmap (.bmp) file. If I had wanted to use a different type of image, say a photograph, it is (almost) as simple as scanning it into the software and converting it into a one bit bitmap. The next step was to import both the .dxf and .bmp files into Lasercut, instruct the software in which order to execute the files, and push the 'go' button. If you have never used a drawing program it will probably take you longer to learn how to create the images you want than to learn the ins and outs of lasering. There are some good video tutorials out there for the most popular drawing programs that could shorten the learning curve substantially, and there are always forums like this one where you can ask questions of people who have been there and done that. If you were truly faint-hearted you wouldn't call yourself Leather Guru. I suspect you have many old skills and the capacity to acquire new ones. Keep me posted and I will help if I can.
  6. I'll be glad to help if I can, Chris. It sounds like a straightforward job so the cost should be minimal. If you want a quote, just send me a sketch showing dimensions of the bib and type and placement of the artwork. If you want me to provide the leather (so you only have to pay shipping one way), be sure to specify the weight and grade. Good luck with the project! Don
  7. I'm in Mountain Home. Thanks for your interest. I use a Lasertek 40W CO2 laser, but I don't think it matters much which brand you use. They all do exactly what the software tells them to. If you are familiar with using both vector files and raster files there shouldn't be much of a learning curve. I use Corel to create and save my files, then import them to the laser software. It is versatile enough so that I can import raster files (for engraving) and vector files (for cutting) into the same window. Then all I have to do is put the leather into the laser bed, click 'start', and when it is done the item is engraved and cut out, including the holes for snaps and rivets. If I plan to hand stitch the work, I can cut stitching holes into it in the same operation. It also makes intricate filigree work as easy as drawing what you want. A laser is no substitute for traditional leatherworking skills, but you can't beat it for precision. If you're thinking of going that route I will be happy to answer any questions you may have about my experiences.
  8. Thanks. It took about a half hour to create the file by drawing it in CorelDraw, but of course I can use it again and again. This kind of engraving can be done at a high speed, so the actual time on the laser was about seven minutes.
  9. The basket weave pattern on this cartridge wallet is laser engraved.
  10. Thanks Guru. Yes, I have a 40 watt CO2 laser. Proper power and speed settings minimize charring. For fine work I sand the edges and finish normally, but for inexpensive items, especially like key fobs or lighter cases, I just clean the edges and sometimes apply edge-kote. It leaves a consistent, well defined edge, and shortens production time, allowing me to make multiples in a short period of time. The last line of your message confused me for a moment. My son's name is Luke. He makes knives and I make sheaths for them. Hello man , Welcome aboard ! Do you have your own laser ? I've done some work with lasers and water jet cutters but I still like a good sharp knive for cutting . I don't like the burned edges but it's fun. Also , hello to brother Luke. I'll be writing to you soon.
  11. Hi Pete. Small world, I'm in Mountain Home also. Let's get together sometime. Thanks for the welcome. I am in Mountain Home and have also been known to fish the White.
  12. Hello to all. The name is Don, and I'm an old geezer from Arkansas whose hobby has grown into a small home-based business. I joined here because of the comprehensive coverage of all things leather and the amazing collection of talented people willing to share their expertise. Many thanks for that! I use a laser for decorating my work and for cutting leather when precision is important. Anybody else out there using lasers in their leather work?
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