FloridaLeatherGirl

I searched. Any links I found were old and stale. i need bobbins and help with the needle size for this machine for a friend. we are located in the US, if that helps. she got this machine for $200!!!!! But no bobbins, or needles. No manual. I am having NO luck. I did find large bobbins (?) but thos one takes bobbins almost the size of my china leather shoe patcher!! Pretty sure they aint large Can anyone lend an ol girl a hand here please?!

Curious if any of you re-work your store bought tools? I dont want to hear how if I buy a $60 over priced beveler I wouldnt have this problem. I have what I have. I have some Tandy tools I use a lot. I dislike the edge and feel it is not as defined as it once may have been. Do these tools dull up after time? Should I (or do you) (can I) strop or sharpen some of my bevelers on a regular basis? I have had some of these for a few decades. Is there any benefit or does that harm them? If so, What other maintenance techniques am I missing out on with these things? thank you

Well I have an update. I changed the top thread to the heavier 277 but kept the lighter weight busy 69 on the bottom and it was having no issue picking up the thread. It was picking up the bottom thread with no problem. It’s picking up fine now and trucking along beautifully. So it’s something with the thinner thread on top. Any idea what that could mean?

OK, I am having somewhat of a similar problem. Everything works fine on my machine if I am using heavier thread like the size 207 that Tandy Leather Orlando met. However, along with the stack of the threads that they say this machine can use, it also says that it could use the Z 69 Ortiz 70 which they claim is as fine of a thread as the machine can use. I currently have on a 7 X 3160 needle when I put the bobbin in and pull the thread up from the bottom, it has no issue bringing the thread up. When I put the leather in, it absolutely refuses to make a loop from the needle and make a locking stitch!!!! I have tried Messing with the top tension, and the presser foot and everything except the Bobben. I repeat that I have had no other issues with the heavier weight thread’s. Just the z69 stuff. Let me save a little time and explain that I’ve got experience sewing clothing. I have made wedding dresses for god sake. So it’s not like using a machine is brand new to me. I have never experienced a machine that is so persnickety like this i really want to use a finer thread on some things. I find it ridiculous that it will pick up without the leather, but it won’t pick up with it. I have tried suede, and some of my garment weight chrome tan as well as seven, five, and 3 ounce veg tan. It might be worth mentioning that I do not have an issue like this with any thickness of leather with the 207 thread Not even with veg tan. With the heavier thread it’s Sousa long mostly like a champion. It does some weird things once in a while and customer service says they have no idea why it’s doing that. They seem to say that a lot If I cycle the machine while looking at the bobbin area, and there is no leather in it, I can see the loop come down and it grabs the bobbin thread just fine over and over and over. But once anything goes under the presser foot, it absolutely will not pick up. I have tried holding the bobbin thread I have tried holding the top thread I have tried holding both threads and nothing works I would like to say it is needle placement but it works fine for everything else, just not the finer stuff. So what gives? GAH!!!!! What am I doing wrong?

I have watched the weaver video a dozen and no matter what I do the blade is not consistent and not sharp enough!! I am about to pitch this stupid thing. What is the secret?! Why can I not do this???!

I have sern folks say sanding/buffing creates the proper nap for rough out but darn if I can find an explaination or technique video illustrating this. Rough out for saddles is less fuzzy than what its line from the store. I have 2/3 of the Stohlman saddle making books and that dang one I DO NOT have happens to be the one that talks about how to do rough out. And ya cant find JUST that third book for sale >:(

Late to the party here but Mike Craw I am having the same issue. Is there any chance I could please get that guide too? :D I dont understand the attraction/fixation of these rawhide horns. If I did a leather cover then rawhide would it last better you think?

Somehow, I was under the impression it was hand-stitched. Not sure why. Well it looks great and what a lucky puppy you are!! Thanks for answering.

When you dip dye it seems to get SO MUCH into the leather (which is the idea, I know). However, I sponged off excess and let it dry really good. I buff it too! However, a black bridle I recently re-dyed was worn by it's horse today and the black dye came off onto the light gray horse. Luckily it's my horse and he just looks goofy so it's no big whoop. It's annoying though. What sets the dye?

Yeah Smokin24 what Mark said ^^^^ Please tell me a little more about the stitching. To me, the belt looks great and you know, nothing is ever 100% perfect. The good news in working with leather is that you can improve with every project. If I had to say anything negative about it I guess I could say that my eye is drawn to the crowded appearance at the end of the belt where the two flowers are crunched together. I know it's how the pattern goes but it looks kind of forced (Is this the right word, I dont know). BUT overall, it's a beauty and some people like limited decorative cutting. My grandfather said he always liked many of my projects better before I mucked it up with a bunch of decorative cutting. The things I made for him never had decorative cuts. He said it made it look all junky and trashed. *shrug* To each his own, right? Too bad some people can't see through their egos to politely critique fellow hobbyists, and instead come out looking pompous and arrogant. I guess not everyone has people skillz.