ZARDOZ the GREAT

That would work. I do like the lighter stitching though. Seems like the pre-curve would be more for thick, stiff belts.

That seems like a helpful technique, but what about the curve? Seems this technique would be detrimental to a pre-added curve, and visa versa. A moneybelt wouldn't have a curve, so this seems to make a case against it. Any input on whether the curved belt really makes a difference? Also, adding the stain etc. at the end will affect the stitching color.

Hello! I have a question about cartridge belts for Victorian era/old West styles. I've heard some people say that the belts fit a lot better if they are pre-curved. Some people say it doesn't matter. I've done the pre-curve by making a sort of wooden template, wetting a straight cut blank, and letting it dry in the template… and it took the curve and it works fine. However, my concern is cutting the cartridge loops on a curved belt. I have a straight cartridge loophole template, and it seems overly complicated trying to get those loops cut on a curve. I figure another option could be making the belt straight and then doing the curve by wetting it after the loops are on there and leaving the cartridges in the loops to prevent any warping. However, this seems like it would create its own set of complications with the lining, etc. Has anybody done this? I also would like to make some money-belts or better said money cartridge belts, and I'm wondering if it's the same deal with that. I tend to think that making all of them straight is fine and then, maybe, wetting them and adding a curve after it's all done will work fine also, but I've never done that before and don't want to reinvent the wheel. Looking forward to your input. Thanks.

Very good. Makes sense! Thank you! Deus vult!

Just to be sure: please correct me if I am wrong or missing anything... When cutting/sizing the gun belt, what I understand is to add four inches to the regular belt/waist measurement, so a size 40 would be a 44. Is this correct? This measurement, from what I understand, is from the belt buckle, where the prong touches the frame of the buckle? Or is it from the center bar of the buckle? to the center hole of the belt billet? I figure there should be some overlap of the belt body. Please advise. As of now I cut a 3"x59" belt blank. Waiting to hear back so I can cut correctly. Thank you. PS. I am wondering if I should take off a 1/2" to make it a 2.5" instead of a 3". Concern is that the belt and holster already have a little play, and the holster may travel with the gun for an inch or so as it is drawn. Obviously, removing a half inch from the belt width will aggravate that. Although I imagine the friction against the body will likely prevent that. The belts in these photos seem to have a curve, and they also look "soft", flexible, especially the one on the right. I though it was a money belt but when zoomed in, as it goes through the holster, it looks like a regular thick leather belt.

Interesting. Thanks! I have a bullet belt that has no liner. I like that the inside is kind of rough because it seems to help in staying put. I'll have to see which way I go in that regard. Thank you!

Howdy. I'm about ready to make the belt. For the curve, is there a formula for how much curve based on belt length? I see western gun belts that are lined on the inside. I am thinking that a money belt would eliminate some of that stitching of extra material on the inside and have just one seam. Does the money belt also need a curve? Can;t see how that would work. Please advise. Thank you!

I've though of something maybe like this: I If I add to it later, I would disguise it with a design or something.

Yeah, thanks. I just asked for one of his old belts and a current one. Maybe I can make it to fit both. Let's see.

That's great! Thank you! Let me ask again and I will let you know asap. Thank you!

Interesting. Where can I find such a pattern? The ones I have don't show a curve.

Have made several western holsters but this will be my first gunbelt. I have a couple of patterns and they are simply a strip of leather 2.5" wide and whatever measurement the wearer needs. Of course there are the billets. Thanks for that information; I will put it to use!

Thanks! That's what I was thinking in my last sentence above-just had a mental block of the terminology. Thanks for the clarification and the idea. It may be the best bet.

Howdy! I'm making an Old West style holster and gunbelt for a friend. He has a Cimarron .357 magnum SAA with a 5.5" barrel. He is undergoing cancer treatment and has lost weight, so I am wondering how to go about this. Here's what I think: He will gain back some weight, so his current waist size is not what to go with. Not sure how much more weight he will gain, so maybe go for his previous waist size. The wife has been a little uncooperative regarding telling my a size. Not on purpose, she just doesn't get what I am saying it seems, and thinks we should wait, but I heard him on the phone say he doen't want to wait. Plus, it will give him something to be happy about. So here are my questions: If I use a belt that he's used before, would this be good-maybe adding a couple of inches? Anyone ever make a belt that can be adjusted? I know there are the extenders, but I mean in the back maybe. Been thinking of a three piece belt: the two regular sides for the buckle with a center piece on the back that holds the bullet loops and attaches via lacing or something. Other than that, trying to decide on a money belt or regular. Based on the need for adjustment, I think the regular type belt will be better. Maybe a sort of cartridge belt type with the buckle and the part that go into the buckle (like a narrower belt) so then I can just replace the part that goes through the buckle with a longer one later.

Crapola! Igot here late and the links no longer work!

OK Thank you!

Sorry I took so long to reply... life! Thank you very much for that manual!!! Thank you! Thanks!

This is an old thread I just found. Link no longer works. I have one of those Chinese cobbler machines but can't get it to work. Is there a website for the manual, a PDF? Thanks.