Dfarm

That is exactly the result I am looking for! The biggest issue I believe I'm fighting with is the thickness of the leather I'm building it out of (9-10oz). The guy I'm building it for asked for thick leather. He didn't specify flat backed, but the holster that I built to go with it is a flat backed pancake, so I figured the mag carrier should match. I'm thinking that I may get better results with a normal pancake style with both sides molded. Thanks for the help! I'll play with what I have now some more to see if I can get the corners right before I throw it in the chew toy bin.

I'm building a double magazine carrier for double stack magazines, and I can't figure out a way to have a flat back on it and keep the bottom corners around the magazines from puckering all funny. How do you guys make this happen? Thanks

Sooperjake hit the nail on the head with the dye transfer I think. It was fiebings USMC black. The muzzle end of the holster is open (I never close the end of a holster it seems like it would fill up with fuzz and junk over time) I see some room where I can take material off if I build another of this style. And thanks for the tip on forming the belt loop. I'll be sure to do that on the next one!

Here she is. It is inspired by the "avenger" style of holsters, but I think I did a couple of things a little different than I've seen on here. This one is my first that I did any tooling on also. It is made from 6-7 oz leather, because I figured that if I used 8-9 oz or 9-10 oz like I normally use for holsters, it would be too bulky for the pistol (Beretta 25a). Now for the questions. Is there anything to help keep the front belt slot from ripping over time? the thread is supposed to be white, but it picked up a bunch of dye on the way through the leather. What can I do to keep that from happening? Is there anything that I can do to keep the muzzle end of the holster from wrinkling all funny? what waxed thread are you guys using? This is sewn with the stuff from tandy, and I've decided that I don't like working with it anymore because it is too waxy. I have used "realeather" thread in the past with good results, but I've only seen it on little cards in hobby lobby(which, as far as I know doesn't exist in my home state) thanks for any help, comments,ect.

that quiver looks awefully familiar. Are you from WA?

I've had good luck being able to wait for the contact cement to dry and then just rub it with your finger until the adhesive balls up and comes off.

ok, so you leave the trigger side open until its moulded. thanks for the tip!

are you wet forming the leather before or after you sew the front and back togeather? if you are sewing first, how do you judge how much bigger the front half needs to be ? I love this style of holster, but cant make sewing the halves togeather first like on a normal pancake work in my head. lol thanks for any tips you could pass along.

Thanks for the replies. @ Malabar, are you wet forming your holsters after they are glued up and sewn, or are you wet forming the front panel before the glue up?

Laying out stitch lines before wet-forming is a foreign concept to me as well. Lol. Are there any good tutorials floating around that cover this?

Hi all, I am pretty new to the leather scene and I have a couple of questions on designing the pancake style holster. I want to build a couple of these holsters, but I have run into a mental road block as far as designing and assembling one goes. On the few holsters that I have built, I have wet formed them before I dyed, glued, and sewn them. When I build a flat backed holster, I cut the back piece out the size I want the holster to be, then cut the front side very over sized and wet form to the gun, then after the leather is dry, I glue it to the back and trim the excess off before sewing. From what I can tell, it looks like the correct way to build this style of holster is to cut the pieces out, then glue and sew together, then wet form. My disconnect is; how do I measure how much to over size the front panel (or both panels if making a holster that is blocked on the back side too ) to leave room for wet forming? Thanks for any help!

Ive done it, just for a smaller pistol.

just make the holster attach to the boot. Then put the gun in the holster after the boot is on.

I just finished one for a ruger lcp, but a glock is probably twice as thick. It can be built, but I'm not sure how wearable it would be, unless he has big bird legs.