Gary Winckler

Machine has been sold.

I have a Landis 3 for sale. Very good condition. Comes with a treadle stand. This machine was totally rebuilt several years ago and has only been used in my small, one man shop since. I'm located near Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. Call for more information at 217-714-4700. Asking $3500 and will consider all offers.

I have a cast iron treadle for a Landis 3 for sale. I have used this with my Landis for several years but recently motorized my Landis and do not have a use for the treadle any longer. It is in good shape and runs well. I totally refinished it and fabricated a wooden top for it when I purchased it. I am located in Coeur d'Alene, ID. It probably weighs between 100 and 150 lbs. Contact me at: winckler@wssaddles.com

I have a treadle stand for a Landis 3 for sale. I used it with my Landis 3 for several years and recently motorized my 3. It is an old time cast iron treadle made for this machine and I fabricated a wooden top for it. Good running order.

This splitter can reliably split to about 4 oz. I am asking $1500 OBO

I have a hand crank splitter (HW Petrie) for sale that is in good working condition. 12" blade. Originally purchased from Keith Pommer and has served me well.

DId you find a solution to your problem?

I am interested in what many of your use for lining leather for billets, fenders, cinches, etc. I have used a variety of different leathers and now use a 5/6 oz chrome tanned leather. I don't like how this looks on the edges after I have edged and burnished so I am looking for other options. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks to everyone for your replies. As a related question....what are your preferences, pros and cons, of Blevins buckles, Superior Quick Change buckles, and lacing? I have never laced a set of stirrup leathers and would like to see how some of you do this. Thanks.

I would be interested in other saddle maker's opinions on stirrup leather width. I build most of my saddles with 3" wide leathers but have had a couple of saddle makers say they think 2 1/2" leathers are sufficient. What are some of your opinions on this topic?

Ben, I tried using pigskin about a year ago for a hornwrap and my impression was that it would not hold up very long. The skin I had looked like pearl splits but was not as thick. I may have just not had the right tannage for this purpose. GW

Barry does make a barb wire stamp....just call him. I have a set and they work well.

I have a saddle customer who wants an inlaid padded seat in RED. Her question to me is what would hold up better and fade in the sun the least, red chap leather or red ostrich? I've not done an ostrich seat before. Can anyone with experience using ostrich care to comment/ Thanks

Congratulations guys....keep up the great work! Gary

If any of you find edging your saddle strings as tedious as I do, here is a technique I have found useful to quickly and easily edge your strings using nothing more than a hand edger. Screw down a 1" x 1/2" piece of wood at least 12" long (mine was more like 24"). Place your string down flat right beside the wood guide. Place a heavy flat piece of iron on top of the string (I used an old piece of railroad rail). Place your edger on the string and pull the string through. Note, my piece of rail had some felt glued to the bottom of it and this kept the string from pulling the anvil as I pulled the string through. The following three photos will help explain how I set this up.