GoldenKnight

Follow the process already given-- let dye dry, rub until no dye comes off on your cloth, slick it down, ... To seal the flesh side of belts, I know of three guys who make lots of belts & two swear by Fiebing's Bag-Kote and another prefers Fiebing's Leather Sheen (acrylic finish). I've had very good results with Resolene and Aussie. Due to the sometimes sticky feel left by the Resolene and some bubbles on smooth surfaces after application, I have started using Leather Sheen and Bag-Kote (besides Aussie) - depending on the project and desired appearance. A common point by all was that if the flesh side is too slick, the Bag-Kote could peel away slightly after some wear/use. Bag-Kote is also a thicker liquid than Leather Sheen, so the application or absorption into the leather will depend on the leather quality and texture of the flesh side. Bottom line: These products are like condiments for food. All are good and have a purpose. Some work better than others on various Leather's and textures, so get a small bottle of each and see what works best for you for different projects.

Gawdzilla, Harbor Freight's 1/2-ton arbor press Hope you have had a successful recovery. Health & life is amazingly strong yet fragile. I was at a leather class yesterday (Daddy's Leather & supply in Miami, FL) and "Daddy" (Lui) showed a great way to use an arbor press to tool, install snaps, rivets, eyelets,, punch holes, etc. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html This press is less than $40. By drilling a hole in the end of the riser (don't know the technical name) on the press to accept the tool shaft(s), tapping a perpendicular hole for a set screw to hold the tool shaft in the moving riser piece, you can then position your leather on a board and crank down the tool - ALL 1-HANDED. In this way you could avoid noise, extra costs & maintenance with air tools, hoses, etc. This would also be extremely portable from shop to porch to vehicle to ... Hope this gives you and anyone else some options at a low cost with high production / control / portability

Might be a little late on this thread, but something I have done is to lay the grooves AFTER I punch my holes. 1. glue up my pieces & let them dry/set 2. punch my stitching holes with a diamond punch (1, 2, or 4 tine depending on straight or curved path) 3. use my groover and go OVER the holes (on both sides) just punched 4. Use a Q-tip with same color stain in the groove, if applicable or needed 5. now I stitch the project up and the thread lays in the grooves on both sides perfectly. I have found that by doing this, the thread is flush or slightly below the surface (no snags) on BOTH SIDES in the grooves, and the punched holes also appear smaller and less noticeable as a bonus on my finished product.

If you want a top quality professional cutting board (Hydroma) red-brown HY72 then bypass the retailers and go straight to a USA supplier where I ordered mine: Induscousa.com has them (cut to your size) in 1" or 2" thick. The price is $0.19 per square inch. Compared to TLF's catalog price it is a steal! I spoke with 'Tony' at 1-800-347-4472 - a really nice fellow & very helpful. Hope this helps on your search. I found that the Wal-Mart white nylon board can be too soft and my round knife blade can dig in a little. When cutting corners and curves, the risk of bending the blade is likely.

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This looks like the yoke of the 'Old Jeans Bag' available for download at the link below from Tandy Leather's digital library. I am actually in the process of making one for my wife. I added inside pockets with snap closures on the inside. The outside yokes have been modified with more scallops, tooled and accent conchos. The pattern is only a basic idea and good as is, but you can always make it fancier. You will find those parts and shapes you provided in the pattern book here: http://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1195-0429-old-jeans-bag.aspx Take care & be safe. No dead ends - only detours. Golden Knight